April 30, 2024:
We spent most of April 30th in the car, as the drive from our accommodation in Penzance to Tewkesbury Abbey was 4 hours and 30 minutes. Tewkesbury Abbey was a good stopping off point for us in reaching the Cotswolds.
Tewkesbury Abbey – Consecrated in 1121, Tewkesbury Abbey thrived for many years until the time of The Reformation when, in 1540, the monastery was dissolved on the orders of Henry VIII and most of the monastery buildings were lost. But the Abbey itself survived after being saved by the townsfolk of Tewkesbury.
Aerial view of Tewkesbury Abbey – Photo: GettyImages.com
A former Benedictine monastery, it is now a parish church. Considered one of the finest examples of Norman architecture in Britain, it has the largest Romanesque crossing tower in Europe.
Tewkesbury Abbey – Photo: Wikimedia
History of Tewkesbury Abbey
The Chronicle of Tewkesbury records that the first Christian worship was brought to the area by Theoc, a missionary from Northumbria, who built his cell in the mid-7th century near a gravel spit where the Severn and Avon rivers join. The cell was succeeded by a monastery in 715, but nothing remaining of it has been identified.
Chronicle of Tewkesbury
In the 10th century the religious foundation at Tewkesbury became a priory subordinate to the Benedictine Cranborne Abbey in Dorset. In 1087, William the Conqueror gave the manor of Tewkesbury to his cousin, Robert Fitzhamon, who, with Giraldus, Abbot of Cranborne, founded the present abbey in 1092. Building of the present abbey church did not start until 1102, employing Caen stone imported from Normandy and floated up the Severn.
Robert Fitzhamon was wounded at Falaise in Normandy in 1105 and died two years later, but his son-in-law, Robert FitzRoy, the natural son of Henry I who was made Earl of Gloucester, continued to fund the building work. The abbey’s greatest single later patron was Lady Eleanor le Despenser, last of the De Clare heirs of FitzRoy. In the High Middle Ages, Tewkesbury became one of the richest abbeys of England.
Arms of Richard de Clare, 6th Earl of Gloucester,
Founders Book of Tewkesbury Abbey, c. 1525
After the Battle of Tewkesbury in the Wars of the Roses on May 4, 1471, some of the defeated Lancastrians sought sanctuary in the abbey. The victorious Yorkists, led by King Edward IV, forced their way into the abbey; the resulting bloodshed caused the building to be closed for a month until it could be purified and re-consecrated.
At the dissolution of the monasteries, the last abbot, John Wakeman, surrendered the abbey to the commissioners of King Henry VIII on January 9, 1539. As a former monk of an endowed community, he received an annuity. This was the relatively large sum of 400 marks, but would have ceased when he was ordained as the first Bishop of Gloucester in September 1541. Meanwhile, the people of Tewkesbury saved the abbey from destruction. Insisting that it was their parish church which they had the right to keep, they bought it from the Crown for the value of its bells and lead roof which would have been salvaged and melted down, leaving the structure a roofless ruin. The price came to £453.
The bells merited their own free-standing belltower, an unusual feature in English sites. After the dissolution, the bell-tower was used as the gaol for the borough until it was demolished in the late 18th century.
Old freestanding Belltower
The central stone tower was originally topped with a wooden spire, which collapsed in 1559 and was never rebuilt. Restoration undertaken in the late 19th century under Sir George Gilbert Scott was reopened on September 23, 1879. Work continued under the direction of his son John Oldrid Scott until 1910 and included the rood screen of 1892.
Central stone tower – Wikimedia – Pauline Eccles
Flood waters from the nearby River Severn reached inside the abbey during severe floods in 1760, and again on July 23, 2007.
Plan of the Abbey
Ground Plan of Tewkesbury Abbey – Photo: www.exploringbuildinghistory.co.uk
Visiting the Abbey – The following tour we took of the Abbey follows the virtual interactive tour of the Abbey available online – https://www.tewkesburyabbey.org.uk/interactive-tour/.·
Abbey Entrance – The Abbey was consecrated in 1121 as the church to the Benedictine Abbey of
Tewkesbury, commemorated by this cross in the North Porch.
Picture of cross in the North Porch from the Interactive Tour
(we couldn’t find this cross!)
Before entering the church, we looked up at the Statue of the Virgin Mary and Child.
Statue of the Virgin Mary and Child over the entrance – Google Street View
Entering the Abbey – Google Street View
West Window – On entering the nave it was difficult not to be impressed by the scale of the west window to our right, constructed in 1686 to replace one blown in by the wind in 1661. The stained glass, however, was not installed until 1886, commissioned by the Revd C.W. Grove as a memorial to his late wife. The scenes depicted follow the journey of Christ from his birth to his ascension.
West Window
The Nave – Now we turned around to see the nave. The 14 gigantic columns are Norman and the elaborate vaulting is 14th century. Mason’s marks can be seen on some of the pillars.
Nave
The Font – To our right is the baptismal font. The Abbey’s font has a 13th century base and a 14th century bowl. The ornate wooden canopy was fitted in Victorian times.
Font
Roof Bosses – Now we walked up the central aisle of the nave and looked up to see the 15 roof bosses on the center rib of the nave representing the life of Christ; on both side ribs angels are shown playing medieval instruments. A leaflet about the Roof bosses is available for purchase in the Abbey Shop. We also saw bosses at the base of the nave columns.
Roof boss representing Adoration of the Shepherds – Flickr: Aidan McRae Thomson
Bearded man boss –
Flickr: groenling
Lectern and Pulpit – We approached the Choir to view the lectern and pulpit. The Abbey’s lectern is from the 19th century and the figures around the base are the Four Evangelists. In medieval times the Abbey was partitioned just below the pulpit, reserving one half for the monastery and the other for the townspeople.
The Lectern and Pulpit
Choir – Next, we looked up at the choir screen to see an ornate ceiling over the choir, with colorful roof bosses, as well a golden cross with Mary, baby Jesus and Joseph over the choir screen.
Choir screen, cross with Mary, baby and Joseph, Choir ceiling – Google Street View
Cross on Choir screen – Google Street View
The Choir Vault – The sun is an emblem of the House of York. It was put here as a memorial to their victory over the House of Lancaster in the Battle of Tewkesbury, 1471.
Vault over the Choir – Flickr – Alex-David Baldi
The Presbytery/High Altar – Entering the Choir gave us a view of the High Altar and Presbytery.
The High Altar and Presbytery – Google Street View
Presbytery Ceiling – Once again we saw a colorful ceiling surrounded by colorful stained glass windows and roof bosses.
Colorful ceiling of the presbytery – Google Street View
Carved Heads Roof Bosses – Looking up to the southwest, there are several colorful carved heads roof bosses.
Carved Heads Roof Bosses – Google Street View
Carved Heads detail (wait a minute – is that Superman on the right?) –
Flickr: Aidan McRae Thomson
The Kneeling Knight – To the right of the high altar is the Kneeling Knight, a unique effigy of Lord Edward Despenser, in full armor, which can be found on top of his chantry chapel (c. 1375). Several generations of the Despenser family were involved in the foundation of the Abbey. Lord Edward, Baron le Despenser, Lord of the Royal Manor of Tewkesbury (1359-75), held high command under The Black Prince at the Battle of Poitiers, 1356.
The Kneeling Knight –
Flickr: Aidan McRae Thomson
Chantry chancel for the Kneeling Knight (Edward Baron le Despenser,
Lord of the Royal Manor of Tewkesbury) – Google Street View
Fresco in the Chantry chancel for the Kneeling Knight
Gravestones for the Depenser family – On the floor of the Presbytery there were gravestone markers for the Depenser family.
Despencer Family Gravestone – Google Street View
Gravestone for Richard le Clare – Photo: FindAGrave.com
Warwick Chapel – Above the Depenser gravestone was Warwick Chapel. One of three chantry chapels at Tewkesbury, the Warwick or Beauchamp chapel was erected around 1430 by Isabel le Despenser, Countess of Warwick (1400-1439) for herself and her two husbands, both of whom were called Richard de Beauchamp. The first Richard de Beauchamp was the 1st Earl of Worcester and died in 1422, while the second was the 13th Earl of Warwick who died in 1439, and was a first cousin of the first Richard.
Warwick Chapel – Google Street View
Despenser Tomb – Directly left of the High Altar was the elaborate canopied tomb of Hugh le Despenser (d. 1349) and his wife Elizabeth Montacute (d. 1359). This is the finest tomb in the Abbey, but the effigies are frustratingly difficult to see (being set too high up to be seen properly from the ambulatory, and the more accessible sanctuary side of course being off limits to casual visitors).
Despenser Tomb – Google Street View
Despenser Tomb from the North Ambulatory – Google Street View
Now we made our way out of the Presbytery into the North Aisle. We turned right and then left to the…
Lady Chapel (Norman Chapel) – This chapel has a mosaic of Christ enthroned. Above this mosaic is an upper apse, which served as a chapel in medieval times; some original painting could be seen on the ceiling of this upper apse.
Lady Chapel (Norman Chapel) and upper apse
Webb Window on the right side of the Lady Chapel
Mosaic of Christ Enthroned
We turned around here to see the…
Chapel of St. Benedict
This small chapel is dedicated to the founder of Western Monasticism, St. Benedict.
Chapel of St. Benedict – Google Street View
Saint Benedict
Saint Benedict, author of the Rule which bears his name, was Patriarch of Western Monasticism and Patron of Europe.
Saint Benedict
Benedict was born c. 480 in Nursia and studied in Rome. He became a hermit in Subiaco, and later embraced the monastic life, writing the final version of his Rule at Monte Cassino, near Naples. He died c. 550. His outlook was characterized by prudence and moderation, realized by a framework of authority, obedience, stability and community life. His Rule came to be recognized as the fundamental monastic code in the early Middle Ages, and was the Rule in Tewkesbury for over four hundred years, until the dissolution of the monastery in 1540.
In the icon of St. Benedict in the Chapel of St. Benedict, he is shown in monastic habit, holding the Tau, or teaching staff, and a scroll on which is written the opening words of his Rule. The icon, painted by Peter Murphy, was given by George Thomas Patrick, and his family, in memory of his beloved wife Honor Evelyn Cicely Patrick (nee Nind) 1908-1993.
Icon of St. Benedict
South Ambulatory – Now we started touring the Ambulatories (South to East to North), going in a counterclockwise direction. On our right we first saw in the South Ambulatory an unidentified tomb.
Tewkesbury Abbey – unidentified tomb
Across the South Ambulatory aisle was a statue of the headless St. John the Baptist and the tomb of Robert Forothington, Abbot of Tewkesbury, 1232-1254.
Tewkesbury Abbey – St John the Baptist
Tomb of Robert Forothington,
Abbot of Tewkesbury, 1232-1254
Next, in the St. Faith Chapel, on the right, next to the Vestry in the South Ambulatory, we saw the recently installed Denny Windows. These windows were reglazed in 2002 with stunning new glass by Thomas Denny. They were created to celebrate the 900th anniversary of the monks’ arrival at the Abbey, the theme being the Benedictine motto ‘to work is to pray’.
Tewkesbury Abbey – Denny’s Windows
Tewkesbury Abbey – “To Work”
Tewkesbury Abbey – “To Pray”
Also in the St. Faith Chapel, was a monument to Archdeacon Hemming Robeson.
Monument to Archdeacon Hemming Robeson (d. 1912)
Green Man roof boss – St. Faith Chapel –
Flickr: Aidan McRae Thomson
Across the South Ambulatory aisle there was a tomb with a female effigy.
Tewkesbury Abbey – tomb of female effigy
East Ambulatory – In the first half of the 14th century the east end was revised to provide a processional walkway or ambulatory in the French style. The pillars behind the High Altar have been cut down to accommodate this.
From the twisted and rusted metal underneath rises this beautiful shining statue of Mary (Our Lady Queen of Peace), reminding us that from grief and despair can come peace, beauty and hope.
Our Lady Queen of Peace by Anthony Robinson
The Our Lady Queen of Peace sculpture is by Anthony Robinson, and situated in the East Ambulatory behind the high altar, facing towards where the Lost Lady Chapel would once have stood.
Detail – Our Lady Queen of Peace
Next to Our Lady Queen of Peace was an exhibit of sculpture fragments.
Tewkesbury Abbey – sculpture fragments exhibit
There was also a beautiful Hardman Window in the East Ambulatory.
East Ambulatory – Hardman Window
North Ambulatory – Next we reached the Chapels of St. Edmund and St. Dunstan in the North Ambulatory.
Chapels of St. Chapels of St. Edmund and St. Dunstan – Google Street View
The monument of John Wakeman, last Abbot of Tewkesbury (d. 1549) was below these chapels. His cenotaph, erected in his lifetime, incorporates a cadaver effigy depicting him as a decaying corpse (with a few small creatures exploring or gnawing his limbs). His actual burial was at Gloucester.
Abbot Wakeman Cenotaph – Google Street View
Detail – Abbot Wakeman cadaver
St. Michael vs the Dragon – St. Edmund and St. Michael Chapel –
Flickr: Aidan McRae Thomson
The next chapel we visited was St. Margaret’s Chapel. This chapel has a variety of interesting items:
Pyx Cover
St. Margaret’s Chapel holds the canopied Tomb of Sir Guy De Bryan (d. 1390).
Tomb of Sir Guy De Bryan – Google Street View
The Abbey Shop – This is a special shop in a special place. Not many shops can boast that their shop is medieval with the Duke of Somerset buried under the till. The painted screen at the end of the shop has been used as a reredos behind the High Altar and was painted by Thomas Gambier-Parry in about 1880.
Tewkesbury Abbey – Gift Shop
Getting There – The Abbey is very close to the major north-south freeway nearby (7 minute drive west from M5). There are plenty of car parks within easy walking distance of the Abbey – all are pay and display. The closest is The Gander Lane Car Park with an entrance directly onto the Abbey Lawns.
Cost and Hours – Abbey – Free, open daily, 9:30 am – 4 pm; The Touching Souls Tea Room is open daily Monday – Friday, 10am – 3pm daily, Saturday, 10 am – 3:30 pm, Sunday, 11 am – 3 pm; Church Street,Tewkesbury, Gloucestershire, GL20 5RZ; +44 1684 850959; www.tewkesburyabbey.org.uk.
This concludes our self-guided tour of Tewkesbury Abbey.