April 22, 2019:
We started our day by walking from our Historic Center of Sintra accommodation to Quinta da Regaleira, then took a bus to the Palace of Monserrate, and later in the afternoon strolled between the Train Station and the Historic Center of Sintra.
WALK FROM SINTRA TO THE QUINTA DA REGALEIRA:
It is an easy walk eight minute walk from the Historic Center of Sintra to Quinta da Regaleira. Our accommodation, Sintra 1012 Boutique Guest House, just west of the Historic Center of Sintra, was our starting point.
We first had to climb the steps of Escadinhas da Assembleia to reach Rua Consiglieri Pedroso.
Steps of Escadinhas da Assembleia
Turning right on Rua Consiglieri Pedroso we soon saw on our right a classic example of Casa Portuguesa style architecture.
House with Casa Portuguesa style architecture
Just past this house on the right you’ll see a gate to reach the…
Museu Ferreira De Castro:
This museum contains the private, literary and artistic collection of the great Portuguese novelist Ferreira de Castro (1898-1974), which was donated by the novelist himself to the People of Sintra, a year before his death. It was closed the day we arrived.
Courtyard of the museum
Just beyond this museum, is the…
Lawrence’s Hotel:
Lawrence’s Hotel is the oldest hotel unit in the Iberian Peninsula (since 1764), having been frequented by many illustrious personages such as Lord Byron and Eça de Queirós – Each of the 16 rooms and suites is unique – There are no numbers on the doors, but names with history.
Lawrence’s Hotel
Past the hotel, we merged onto Av. Almeida Garrett and saw this fountain on the left…
Fonte dos Pisões:
The present Fonte dos Pisões was erected by the Commission of the Tourism Initiative of Sintra in 1931, and replaced the previous tank, with a chronology of at least five hundred years, with the documentary memory still remaining, of 1651.
The existing fountain was designed by Master José da Fonseca and develops from a semi-circular structure, which is accessed through a low stair-step.
Fonte dos Pisões
Waterfall:
Next there was a small waterfall on the left…
Small waterfall (Cascata de Pisões) on the left side of the road
We next saw signs that Quinta da Regaleria was behind the wall to our left…
Exterior of the Loggia for Quinta da Regaleria
Soon we arrived at Quinta da Regaleria. We had to go around to the North (Upper) Gate to enter.
Approaching the Upper Gate (entrance)
Entrance gate (Upper Gate)
QUINTA DA REGALEIRA:
This Neo-Everything (Manueline/Gothic/Renaissance) 1912 mansion and garden has mystical and Masonic twists. It was designed by Italian opera-set designer Luigi Manini for a wealthy but disgruntled monarchist two years after the Portuguese Royal Family was deposed. Quinta da Regaleira is classified as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO within the “Cultural Landscape of Sintra”
The Palace is also known as “The Palace of Monteiro the Millionaire”, which is based on the nickname of its best known former owner, António Augusto Carvalho Monteiro.
António Augusto Carvalho Monteiro
and his wife, Perpétua Augusta Pereria de Melo
The property consists of a romantic Palace, Chapel, and luxurious Gardens that feature lakes, grottoes, wells, benches, fountains, and a vast array of exquisite constructions.
Palace of Regaleira:
The Regaleira Palace (Portuguese: Palácio da Regaleira) bears the same name as the entire estate – The structure’s façade is characterized by exuberantly Gothic pinnacles, gargoyles, capitals, and an impressive octagonal tower.
Regaleira Palace
Chapel:
The Chapel is a separate building from the main building of the Palace.
The Chapel
The Gardens of Regaleira:
These special and unique gardens offer fanciful follies, secret underground passages, and lush landscaping.
Gardens of Regaleira
Touring the Gardens:
Using the Garden map, navigate your way around to explore the following sites in the Gardens by area (save exploring the Chapel and Palace until the end of the tour of the Gardens):
Garden Map – Source: stefanpoag.com
Coach Houses:
These Coach Houses are located just inside the Upper Gate – located behind them are the Stableblock and Cowsheds and a castle-like structure.
Coach Houses
Castle-like structure behind the Coach Houses
Small cave along the path
Arts Workshop:
This building complex behind the coach houses originally housed estate employees together with a garage and powerhouse that generated electricity for the entire property. You can see the incinerator that was used.
Arts Complex
Incinerator
Ziggurat:
In front of the Portal of the Guardians (see below), on the Terrace of the Celestial Worlds (over the Cistern), is located a towering Ziggurat (and a smaller similar structure at the west end of the terrace).
Ziggurat
Views from the Ziggurat
Portal of the Guardians:
Across from the Ziggurat, this is a highly dramatic structure composed of twin towers flanking a central pavilion under which is hidden one of the passageways to the Initiation or Initiatic Well.
Portal of the Guardians
Initiatic Well:
A “subterranean inverted tower”, that sinks some 27 meters into the earth, it is made accessible by a monumental spiral stairway (and hidden underground passageways).
Using the hidden passageway to access the Initiatic Well
Initiatic Well
After descending into the well, we entered a cave that exited at the…
Lake of the Waterfall:
In order to cross the lake, we had to walk on stones laid in the water.
Lake of the Waterfall
Our next stop was the…
Unfinished Well:
Another interesting well to explore, with its web of openings.
Next we saw a…
Tennis Court:
An old tennis court, with grandstands and tennis court pole still visible.
Old Tennis Court
We also entered the…
Grotto of the East:
This grotto also has an entrance to the passageways/tunnels that lead to the Initiation or Initiatic Well.
Grotto of the East
Then the…
Fountain of Regaleira or Abundance:
An impressive fountain with adjoining benches and imposing urns.
Fountain of Regaleira or Abundance
Then we explored the…
Tower of Regaleira:
An impressive tower, everyone’s favorite to climb and look out the windows.
Tower of Regaleira
Next, the…
Grotto of Leda:
Full of symbolism, this grotto represents Leda, an Aetolian princess who became a Spartan queen – Her myth gave rise to the popular motif in the Renaissance and the later art of Leda and the Swan.
Grotto of Leda
There is a…
Greenhouse:
• This temple of flora makes obvious the enthusiasm of the owner, Carvalho Monteiro, for botany.
The Greenhouse
The tile panel on the façade shows a group of priestesses conducting a fertility rite
We came across an interesting bench…
Dogs Bench:
Nancy finally got a chance to rest a little.
We passed a small house/fountain…
House of Ibis or Balnearium Fountain:
Small house fronted by a fountain.
House of Ibis or Balnearium Fountain
The next stop was…
Labyrinth Grotto:
Just past the House of Ibis or Balnearium Fountain on the path is the Labyrinth Grotto.
Labyrinth Grotto
We found another dog bench (and a lion bench)…
Another dog bench
Lion Bench
In the far corner of the garden is the…
Pisões Loggia:
Along the wall aligned with the outside road is another entrance to the Quinta, the lower area is tiled, the top area elaborated decorated and covered.
Promenade:
We now began our walk to the Chapel and the Palace. Along the way we saw interesting sculptures…
Sculptures on the way to the Chapel and Palace
Chapel:
Built in the Manueline style, it has a complex iconographic program developed around scenes from the Life of Mary and the Life of Christ.
Chapel
Swan’s Bench:
Between the Chapel and the Palace is a bench with two swans on either end, with an ornate centerpiece.
Swan’s Bench
Lookout Building:
Also, just outside the chapel, is a building to enable looking out over the garden.
Lookout building
Café:
Between the Chapel and the Palace is also a terraced Café, with a beautiful fountain in the middle.
Café
Touring the Palace:
Use the Palace Map to explore the Palace – you can explore three floors and a balcony, filled mostly with well-presented exhibits on the design and construction of the place, and biographical sketches of the aristocrat and architect who brought it to life.
Palace Map – Source: stefanpoag.com
Main Entrance:
The Main Entrance of the Palace is located just northeast of the Café, on the southwest side of the Palace.
Main entrance of the palace
Before entering, notice the intricate stone carvings on the entry staircase, as well as overhead.
Carvings on the entry staircase
The Porch:
The porch is also elaborately decorated, carved in Coimbra limestone, which suggests the age of Portuguese Discoveries and epitomizes the idea of a journey.
The decorated porch
Hunting Room:
The Hunting Room formerly dining room is overwhelmed by the massive fireplace that supports a statue of a woodsman – the mantelpiece depicts hunting scenes that are exceptionally well carved.
The Hunting Room
Renaissance Hall:
Formerly the drawing room, decorated in Italian Renaissance style – There are iconographic references to Carvelho Monteiro and his wife, Perpétua Augusta.
Renaissance Hall
King’s Room:
Formerly the billiard room – There are portraits of Portuguese monarchs: 20 kings and 4 queens and the coats-of-arms of four cities: Braga, Oporto, Coimbra and Lisbon.
King’s Room
Carvalho Monteiro Room:
A small, square room otherwise plain, with an intricate carved wood ceiling and memorabilia of Carvalho Monteiro.
Carvalho Monteiro Room
Music Room:
The last room on this floor, southwest of the Small Room, is the Music Room, with a desk, some chairs, and beautiful wallpapers and ceiling with the theme of music.
Music Room
Door Knockers:
Enjoy finding these door knockers.
Door knockers
Balcony:
Stroll here to great views of the Gardens and Chapel.
Views from the balcony
We took a bus from Quinta Da Regalieria to our next site…
PALACE OF MONSERRATE:
We first took a tour of the gardens of Monserrate, then toured the palace.
Chimeras:
At the entrance gate notice the two Chimeras (A Chimera is a Mythological creature providing an introduction to the idea of the fantastic that lies beyond the garden gates – these sculptures of Chimeras at the entrance gate are not the original ones, an original Chimera can be seen inside the palace itself)
Chimeras at the entrance gate
Cork Oak:
Native to Southern Europe and North Africa – Widely grown in Portugal for extraction of barks for cork production – Monserrate cork oaks have never been stripped and their bark is thick and wrinkled.
Cork oak
Vathek’s Arch:
A stone arch allegedly built by William Beckford when he subleased the property – The name refers to the main character in his most famous novel, Vathek.
Vathek’s Arch
Beckford’s Waterfall:
An artificial waterfall attributed to William Beckford.
Beckford’s Waterfall
Fern Valley:
A remarkable collection of tree-ferns in a valley with an unusual microclimate.
Fern Valley
Chapel Ruins:
There are ruins of a chapel. Notice how the surrounding trees have taken over.
Chapel Ruins
We now pass through a couple of arches to see the…
Couple of arches
Boulder House:
The top floor housed the carpenter’s workshop and the lower floor as a shed for the cows or oxen – Today it houses the head office of the Parques de Sintra.
Boulder House
We now walked to the…
Palace:
The Palace of Monserrate has a central body and two symmetrical lateral wings, united through atriums and a central gallery to which open the various rooms of the building.
Map of the Palace – Source: foudeurope.com/
Sourth Atrium and Merman Fountain:
Outside, before accessing the West Terrace overlooking the lawn, the visitor is welcomed on the South Side by the Merman Fountain, against the background of the South Tower’s façade.
South Atrium and Merman Fountain
Walk up the steps, and around the left side of the Palace to reach the…
Western Terrace:
On the Western Terrace of the palace there is the entrance door to the central Main Atrium (the starting point of the visit to the interior spaces), whose portico stands out for the lace and decorative motifs of the arches, as well as the privileged view overlooking the turf and historic gardens.
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Western Terrace – Central Main Atrium
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View from the Western Terrace
Staircase:
In the atrium of the central turret staircase are the four alabaster panels from India and the magnificent stone structure (steps and rail) decorated with a pattern of ivy leaves, whose development accompanies the perimeter of the walls, giving the space a monumental character, in which the vegetal motifs executed in plaster fill the whole of the walls and the ceiling.
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Central turret staircase
Main Atrium:
An octagonal atrium located in the center of the palace – Of note are the alabaster fountain, the statue and the dome, with a great scenic effect
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Main Atrium
Central Gallery:
The Central Gallery is the connecting corridor between the various rooms and towers of the Palace, fully lined with Moorish pattern in relief stucco.
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Cetnral Gallery
Indian Living Room:
Also called the Drawing Room, it has a stucco decoration identical to the Billiard Room (see below) – Particularly noteworthy is the central ceiling flower, the two pots (from Portuguese manufacture) from the ceramic collection of Sir Francis Cook and, already abroad, for the large tree (a meter) that grew at the top of the lawn.
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Indian Living Room
Music Room:
This noble room occupies the north tower of the building – Stands out the harmony of proportions between the base room and the dome, decorated in stucco with golden floral motifs – The frieze is animated with representations of muses and graces.
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Music Room
Billiards Room:
The palace had a room dedicated exclusively to the English game of billiards – This room features the same decorative composition of the Indian Room, in which the stucco reliefs are punctuated by original gilded elements on the walls and ceiling – On the floor, you can see the footprints of the pool table that gave it its name – The two large mirrors not only seem to prolong the space but also give it the designation of the Hall of Mirrors.
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Billards Room
Library:
The main furniture of the old library was a large walnut-wood desk – Above the fireplace was a panoply (false shield, shotguns, swords, daggers, halberds, stirrups), and suspended from the ceiling was an eighteen-luster chandelier that illuminated the space, full of objects of artistic value.
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Library
The door stands out in Spanish walnut wood, finely carved in the eighteenth century – It is the original door and previously had the decorated face facing the interior of the room – The library is the only space on the ground floor with a door.
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Dining Room:
The Dining Room walls currently feature a version of the original decorative composition – The use of color, relief and a painting executed under the technique of stencil give it the splendor lost by several layers of paints applied over time, in a single tone – This decorative painting is based on the decorative motif of the corridor, but in a stylized version.
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Dining Room
Canopy:
Immediately adjacent to the Dining Room is a Canopy, with a sink and cabinets, and a pulley system to bring food up from the Kitchen in the lower floor of the Palace.
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Canopy
South Atrium:
Octagonal space with Gothic arches and pink marble columns – It is one of the entrances of the palace, with direct connection to the lower floor where the kitchen is located.
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South Atrium
Chapel:
Returning to the Entrance Hall west of the Main Atrium, to the south is a small room dedicated as a Chapel.
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This concludes our tour of the Palace of Monserrate…
WALK BETWEEN THE TRAIN STATION AND THE HISTORIC CENTER OF SINTRA:
The Volta do Duche is the street and path between the train station and the historic centre of Sintra. It basically starts at the small roundabout in front of the town hall and descends slightly in a curve until it reaches the main tourist area of the town center.
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Sintra Town Hall
The walk should take about 10 minutes, and you’ll see numerous contemporary sculptures that line the path.
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Contemporary sculptures along Volta do Duche
There is access to the urban park called Parque da Liberdade and the lovely Fonte dos Mouros to see along the way. You will also see artists, souvenir, trinket and craft vendors setting up shop along the Volta do Duche.
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Fonte dos Mouros
Soon we’ll reach the Historic City Center.
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Historic City Center of Sintra