April 9, 2019:
Today we continued our exploration of Porto with more walking tours, with a lot of shopping, followed by a trolley ride to and from Foz.
Porto Self-Guided Walking Tour, Part 2:
Today’s self-guided walking tour starts at Praça Guilherme Gomes Fernandes, to which we took an Uber from our apartment in downtown Porto. Our first stop was at this square…
Padaria Ribeiro – This is a well-known pastry shop in Porto, established in 1878. Open daily 8 am – 8 pm; Praça Guilherme Gomes Fernandes 21, 4050-526 Porto; +351 22 200 5067.
Padaria Ribeiro
From the Padaria Ribeiro, we walked south, turned right onto Praça Guilherme Gomes Fernandes and followed the trolley tracks around the corner to the right. Across the street is the…
Praça de Gomes Teixeira – This square is named for the University of Porto’s first rector and a beloved math professor. The square contains the main building for the University of Porto and a Fountain of the Lions.
Praça de Gomes Teixeira – University of Porto and a Fountain of the Lions
Universidade do Porto (University of Porto) – The University of Porto is a fairly young school (founded 1911), but the second-biggest in Portugal, with about 30,000 students who give this city – and this neighborhood (one of the three main campuses) – a special energy.
Fonte dos Leões (Fountain of the Lions) – The Fonte dos Leões (Fountain of the Lions), is a 19th-century fountain built by French company Compagnie Générale des Eaux pour l’Etranger. Cast by the Val d’Osne foundry in France, it is a copy, in most part, of the fountain in the Town Hall Square of Leicester, England.
Fonte dos Leões (Fountain of the Lions) – Wikimedia – Marcio
Directly across the street from the Fonte dos Leões (Fountain of the Lions) is the…
Armazéns Cunhas Department Store – This store demonstrates the sleek Art Deco style that took hold in Porto in the early 20th century – sprucing up a city of granite and azulejos. This neon façade, though now faded, might look more at home in Hollywood or Miami Beach – The peacock at the top trumpets the new fashions of the age, and neon announces novidades – vendemos mais barato (“new fashions – we sell cheaper”).
Armazéns Cunhas Department Store
On our right, with brillant blue azulejos on the sides, is the…
Igreja do Carmo (Carmo Church) – This church was built in the second half of the 18th century – Due to its architecture and interior carvings, it is considered to be one of the most remarkable Rococo buildings of Porto. In 1912, its lateral façade was covered with tiles.
Igreja do Carmo (Church of the Carmelites)
The drawings on those tiles were designed by Silvestre Silvestri – They are figurative compositions in a magnificent panel of blue and white tiles, alluding to the worship of Our Lady (Nossa Senhora) in representing the Brown Scapular imposition on Mount Carmel. The building is designated as a National Monument.
Tiles allude to the worship of Our Lady (Nossa Senhora) in the Brown Scapular imposition on Mount Carmel
The Latin inscription on the façade, “Ecce signum salutis salus in periculis” means: “Behold, the sign of salvation is the salvation of peril”.
The Brown Scapular of Our Lady of Mount Carmel is a symbol of devotion and obedience to Mary, the Mother of God, and to the Carmelite Order. It represents the Carmelites’ dedication to Mary, their trust in her protection, and their desire to be like her in their commitment to Christ and others. The scapular is also a sign that Mary will protect those who wear it faithfully.
Brown Scapular of Our Lady of Mount Carmel
Circling around to the front, you’ll see that there are two fine Rococo churches in one: On the right, the Carmo Church, once inhabited by friars; on the left, the Carmelitas Church, once housing an order of Carmelite nuns. In the middle, to keep the orders separate and to allow them to hunker down in isolation from the outside world, is the Narrowest House in Porto (aka Hidden House). In addition to the interiors of each church, there are also Catacombs and a Sacristy to visit.
Carmelitas Church on the left, Carmo Church on the right, Narrowest House in Porto in the middle – Wikimedia – Aleksandr Zykov
Narrowest House in Porto (aka Hidden House) – Flickr – Victoria Lea B
Carmelitas Church was part of a convent in the 17th century. The building has a classical façade with a single a bell tower and a rich gilded interior. The church was used as barracks during the French Invasion of Porto (1808-1814). The building to the left of the Carmelitas Church, the former Carmelite Convent, is now the headquarters of the GNR (Portuguese National Guard).
Carmalitas Church Exterior – Wikimedia – Henrique Matos
Carmalitas Church Interior – On the Carmelitas’ church interior you’ll find a rich baroque and rococo style with gilded woodcarvings on the main altar and the lateral chapels.
Nave and High Altar
Side Chapels
Pulpit
Font
Carmo Church was built in the 18th century and is an amazing example of Baroque architecture.
Carmo Church Exterior – Wikimedia – Otourly
Carmo Church Interior – There is a nave, high altar and various side chapels.
Nave and High Altar
Ceiling of the Nave
Organ
Pulpit
Side Chapels
Georgia viewing a side chapel
Ornamentation detail
Cost/Hours – Free; both churches are open daily, 10 am – 6 pm. Mass: Monday – Saturday, 9:30 am; 3 pm; Sunday, 9:30 am, 12:30 pm, 3 pm (no visits during Mass); Rosary, daily, 2:30 pm.
Visits sign
Attractions sign
Visiting the Narrowest House in Porto (aka Hidden House) – €2.50, same hours as churches. The visit to the house includes the “catacombs” which is a door with a small window in which one looks into a room filled with silverware.
The Narrowest House in Porto (aka Hidden House)
The “Catacombs” – Photo: Yelp
Now walk directly south from the Carmo Church, alongside the west side of the University of Porto, on Praça de Parada Leitão, until you reach the park Jardim da Cordoaria. Here you will find a…
Estátua de Ramalho Ortigão – José Duarte Ramalho Ortigão was a Portuguese writer of the late 19th century and early 20th century and a great supporter of “Romanticism”. This statue seems to show Ortigão pensively looking past the University of Porto (the statue used to look 180 degrees at the park…).
Estátua de Ramalho Ortigão by Leopoldo de Almeida, inaugurated on August 21, 1954 – Wikimedia – Diego Delso
The Jardim da Cordoaria has several other statues to visit:
1) A bust of the poet António Nobre, a work by Tomás Costa, inaugurated in March 1927;
António Nobre bust – Photo: portoarc.blogspot.com
2) Flora by António Teixeira Lopes, dated 1904;
Flora – Photo: Pinterest
3) the Abduction of Ganymede, representing a naked young man, riding on the back of an eagle, holding a small amphora, sculpture by Fernandes de Sá, inaugurated on October 5, 1916 and originally placed in Praça da República, arriving in the Jardim da Cordoaria in 2001;
Abduction of Ganymede – Flickr – Truus, Bob & Jan too!
4) in the Jardim avenues, a set of four benches, in total with thirteen human figures called “Thirteen laughing at each other”, the work of the Madrid sculptor Juan Muñoz, installed in 2001.
“Thirteen laughing at each other” – Photo: tasteporto.com
Turn left at the Jardim da Cordoaria and follow the University of Porto building until you reach a “concrete” square, covered in grass and trees, the…
“Concrete” square covered in grass and trees – Praça de Lisboa – Google Street View
Praça de Lisboa – This innovative solution shows what smart urban planners can do to camouflage an ugly concrete parking garage in the historic heart of a city: build a park on top of it.
Aerial View of Praça de Lisboa –
Source: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/556827941407670010/
Praça de Lisboa – side view – Google Street View
Praça de Lisboa – underneath – Google Street View
Up on top, a hip bar called Base serves drinks, which you can enjoy at picnic tables or under one of the 50 gnarled olive trees.
Olive tree
Exploring the Praça de Lisboa
Let’s make our way to the north end of the Praça de Lisboa, where we’ll find the…
Lello & Irmão Bookstore (Libraria Lello) – Built in 1906, the unusual book shop boasts a lacy exterior and a fancy Art Nouveau interior – It looks like wood, but it’s mostly made of painted plaster with gold leaf – J. K. Rowling, who worked in Porto for a year, was reportedly inspired by this Harry Potter-esque shop.
Lello & Irmão Bookstore (Libraria Lello)
And sure enough, the interior feels like something you’d see on Diagon Alley – You’ll pay to go inside (see below), then follow the quaint tracks to the book trolley – Climb the sagging staircase to find the old cash register, ogle the stained-glass ceiling, and admire the slinky hanging lights.
Interior of Lello & Irmão Bookstore (Libraria Lello)
Books on display
The Harry Potter connection – which was attracting 2,000 people to ogle the interior, but not buying anything – became too much for this little, fragile bookshop to handle – So now they attempt to control crowds by requiring visitors to buy a €3 voucher to get inside (line up to buy the voucher at the kiosk up the street, then enter through the main door).
Using my voucher!
You can apply the €3 voucher towards any purchase – they have some souvenirs, as well as a good selection of books in English by leading Portuguese authors – The funds raised have already allowed them to restore the newly gleaming façade (Open daily, 10 am – 7 pm; at Rua das Carmelitas 144).
Under the Praça de Lisboa – Now we made our way south “under” the Praça de Lisboa, stopping at some of the restaurants/shops on the way…
Restaurants/Shops under the Praça de Lisboa
When we emerged on the south side of Praça de Lisboa, we were back where we originally entered the square. We noticed at the southwest corner of Praça de Lisboa the…
Estátua do Bispo D. António Ferreira Gomes – D. António Ferreira Gomes (May 10, 1906 – April 13, 1989) was a Portuguese Roman Catholic bishop, and is considered one of the most notable figures of Portuguese Catholic hierarchy in the 20th century. He was forced into a 10-year exile from Portugal due to his opposition to the Estado Novo (New State).
Estátua do Bispo D. António Ferreira Gomes – Wikimedia – Diego Delso
We now crossed the street and did a little shopping…
Casa Oriental – Initially dedicated to the export of eels, Casa Oriental now produces about thirty varieties of tinned goods, painstakingly prepared by the experienced, wise hands of over a hundred women.
Casa Oriental
They transform the flavours of the sea into sealed and tinned delicacies.
Casa Oriental interior
Open Sunday – Thursday, 9:30 am – 8 pm; Friday, Saturday, 9:30 am – 9 pm; Campo dos Mártires da Pátria 111, 4050-367 Porto; +351 21 134 9044.
Casa Portuguesa do Pastel de Bacalhau – This restaurant, next door to Casa Oriental, is a boutique-style eatery dedicated entirely to pastéis de bacalhau (codfish pastries, aka salt cod fritters or salt cod croquettes). They have a similar restaurant in Lisbon. Open Sunday – Thursday, 10 am – 9 pm; Friday, Saturday, 10 am – 10 pm; Campo dos Mártires da Pátria 108, 4050-367 Porto; +351 21 164 8919.
Casa Portuguesa do Pastel de Bacalhau
Just down the street was our next stop…
Church and Tower of the Clergy (Igreja e Torre dos Clérigos) – This church and tower, which consumed three decades of Nicolau Nasoni’s life (1731 – 1763), shows the ambitious architect’s flair for theatrics – He fit the oval-shaped church into its hilltop position, putting the disproportionally tall tower at the back on the highest ground, dramatically reinforcing its height.
Built to fit the hillside – Photo: GetYourGuide.com
Nasoni worked in stages: first the church, then a hospital and the Chapter House (residence for priests and monks) – He topped it all off with the outsized tower – You can go inside the church for free, you pay to climb the tower (see below).
Outsized tower – Wikimedia – Nicolas Vollmer
Nicolau Nasoni, Artist and Architect (1691 – 1773)
Nicolau Nasoni (originally Niccoló Nasoni) was an Italian artist and architect mostly active in Portugal.
Nicolau Nasoni, architect
He became one of the most influential figures in Portuguese Baroque architecture with his original and vigorous and theatrical style of Baroque and Rococo architecture.
In the 1720s – a boom time in Porto – Nasoni found work as a painter here – His swirling, colorful paintings wowed Porto, and Nasoni got plenty of work – He married a Portuguese woman, had five kids, and made Porto his home.
Soon, he was employed as an architect, hiring skilled local artisans to turn granite, wood, and poured plaster into his trademark cherubs, garlands, and cumulus clouds – Even stark medieval churches had their facades topped with Baroque towers and their interiors paneled and spackled in billowy gilded designs.
Prolific to the max, Nasoni redid Porto in the Baroque style (much as Bernini did in Rome), creating palaces and churches throughout the area – His tour-de-force was the hill-topping Clérigos Church, where he was later buried.
Cost/Hours – Church – free, Tower and Exhibits – €3, Open Daily 9 am – 7 pm; free city maps at ticket window, at Rua São Filipe de Nery, +351 222 001 729 – You can also climb the Tower after dark (€5, Daily 7 pm – 11 pm).
The Tower – Notice how Nasoni built the tower in six sections, each one more elaborate than the last, topped with a round dome and spiked with pinnacles.
The tower was built in sections – Wikipedia – Diego Delso
The main attraction of the tower is climbing 225 steps to the top – one of Porto’s icons (on busy days, you may have to kill time waiting for your turn on the upper stairs – ask before you buy your ticket).
Climbing the stairs in the Tower – Photo: MakSinWee
On your way up, you’ll walk along upper galleries offering views into the church interior from above, and get some peeks outside.
View into the church and outside from the Tower
Reaching the top of the tower, you get a close-up look at the carillon and commanding views of the city with its jumble of tightly packed red roofs.
Carillion – Photo: MakSinWee
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Views from the top of the tower
The Church – The church façade displays Nasoni’s characteristic frills, garlands, and exuberant cornices.
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Nasoni’s Baroque style evident – Photo: Wikimapia
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Baroque exterior – Wikimedia – Ruialbuquerque
The interior of the church is an oval-shaped Baroque nave built out of granite and marble.
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Baroque church interior
Exit the church and go south to the popular shopping district – Rua das Flores…
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Going south to the Rua das Flores shopping district
When you reach Rua das Flores – you’ll know – see the A Pérola da Índia store below – Part 2 of our Porto Self-Guided Walking Tour is over…
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A Pérola da Índia deli/shop – Rua das Flores
Porto Self-Guided Walking Tour, Part 3:
Rua das Flores (Flores Street)
In 1521, by Royal Appointment of King Manuel I, a street originally named Santa Catarina das Flores (St. Catherine of the Flowers) was built here. The name was due to the fact that the bishop of Porto, D. Pedro da Costa, was a pious devout of the martyr and also because the new street was located in an area full of gardens and flowers.
The main function of the modern street, wide and linear, was to create a straight and fast connection between São Domingos Square and the Porta de Carros. Flores Street came about, divided by two areas: on the south side, it was clearly residential, defined by large aristocratic mansions; on the north side it took a commercial trend with the main focus on gold and silver shops, as well as earthenware, clothing and assorted activities.
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Rua das Flores became a major connection street
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Rua das Flores had luxurious manor houses – Wikimedia – Béria Lima de Rodríguez
Rua das Flores has known periods of prosperity and decline, having recovered its economic and cultural strength in recent years. The new coexists with the old: façades are preserved, interiors are restored, signposts are kept or added, buildings are adjusted to new functions. Noble houses, marked by their armorial stones, are converted into commercial establishments or lodging.
In recent years, the influx of people has brought new commercial demands to their arterial street, with a proliferation of cafés, pubs, restaurants, different kinds of lodging, traditional commerce and souvenir shops.
Shopping on Rua das Flores – We browsed our way down Rua das Flores, stopping at the following places…
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Rua das Flores
A Pérola da Índia – The Pérola da India opened its doors in 1934 and has belonged to the same family since its inauguration, and today its third generation is in charge of its activities.
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A Pérola da Índia – Photo: Shop In Porto
Located on the busy Rua das Flores, it specializes in selling wines, various drinks and food products, with emphasis on the selection of Port Wines and preserves that attract customers daily.
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Extensive wine collection – Photo: Shop In Porto
The bulk sale of dried fruits, the wide variety of legumes and the offer of different types of coffee are other examples of products you can find here.
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Dried fruits, legumes, other products – Photos: Shop In Porto
Across the street is the ancient and famous jewelry store…
Ourivesaria Coutinho – Born in 1859, the Ourivesaria Coutinho is considered one of the most ancient jewelleries in the city. In other times, it was in Rua das Flores that the “richest shops of the borough” could be found and where the bourgeoisie was supplied with “small luxuries”. In this area, there were 37 goldsmiths. Silver and filigree (especially the hearts of Viana) are the most sought articles in Ourivesaria Coutinho.
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Ourivesaria Coutinho
Open Monday – Friday, 9:30 am – 6:45 pm, Saturday, 9:30 am – 12:45 pm, Closed Sunday; Rua das Flores 185 187, 4050-266 Porto; +351 22 200 6340.
Next to A Pérola da Índia, an abandoned storefront is now a street art poster…
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Street Art – 208/210 Rua das Flores
A couple of stores later on the right, is a “fun store”…
Casa Nunes – A clothing store with colorful items creatively displayed outdoors beckoning you to enter and look around. Open daily, 9 am – 7:30 pm; Rua das Flores 169, 4050-266 Porto;
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Casa Nunes outside
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Casa Nunes inside
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More street art
Chocolateria das Flores – Located on a side street just off Rua das Flores at Rua da Ponte Nova 64, 4050-485 Porto, this Café specializes in handmade artisan chocolates, chocolate and love gifts, cakes, and “the best” hot chocolate in Porto. Open Monday – Friday, 9 am – 5 pm, Saturday, Sunday, 9 am – 7 pm; +351 22 018 5892.
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Chocolateria das Flores
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Colorful buildings on Rua das Flores
Memórias – (Unfortunately, now permanently closed) – Homegoods store with an eclectic variety of products. Rua das Flores 18, 4050-262 Porto; +351 22 208 5726.
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Memórias
And lastly, not on Rua das Flores, but close by…
Portugalidades – Artisan, souvenir, tiles, ceramics, and handicraft items. Located at R. de Mouzinho da Silveira 172, 4000-030 Porto.
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Portugalidades outside
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Portugalidades inside
MMIPO – Museu da Misericórdia do Porto (Museum of Mercy of Porto) and Igreja da Misericórdia (Church of Mercy) – In addition to shopping on Rua das Flores, we visited this museum and adjoining church, located at Rua das Flores 15, 4050-265 Porto.
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Museu da Misericórdia do Porto (Museum of Mercy of Porto) and Igreja da Misericórdia (Church of Mercy)
Cost/Hours – Adults – €10; Open daily 10 am – 5:30 pm (last visit 30 minutes before closing); +351 22 090 6960.
The MMIPO has a double purpose, one is letting people know the history of the Misericórdia do Porto and its institutional purposes, and the other is to divulge its artistic collections, through a set of resources that reflect the memory and the identity of the organization, projecting it into the future.
The museological space includes the Igreja da Misericórdia (Church of Mercy) and the Gallery of Benefactors, an example of the architecture of iron and glass in the city.
Visiting the Museum – The Museum itself has exhibits about the Church’s history, its strong charitable tradition, and its ecclesiastical art.
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Museum exhibits and ecclesiastical art
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Hole in the wall view
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Views from the hole in the wall
Visiting the Church – Built in the sixteenth century, the church received a major intervention in the 18th century with a predominant involvement of Nicolau Nasoni.
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The church interior
Now we made our way south to the…
Henry the Navigator Square (Praça do Infante Dom Henrique) – Arguably the most important Portuguese person of all time – who put his country on the (figurative) map by putting many mysterious, faraway lands on the (literal) map – Prince Henry the Navigator was born right here in Porto.
Prince Henry the Navigator (1394 – 1460)
No swashbuckling sailor, Infante Dom Henrique (as the Portuguese call him) was a quiet scholar, an organizer, a religious man, and the brains behind Portugal’s daring sea voyages.
The middle child of King D. João I of Portugal and Queen Philippa of England, he was one of what was dubbed “The Marvelous Generation” (Inclita Geração) that drove the Age of Discovery. While his brothers and nephews became Portugal’s kings, he worked behind the scenes.
Prince Henry the Navigator
At age 21, he planned the logistics for the large-scale ship invasion of the Muslim city of Cueta (1415) on the north coast of Morocco, taking the city and winning knightly honors. Awed by the wealth of the city – a terminus of the caravan route – and intrigued by the high-quality maps he found there, Henry decided to organize expeditions to explore the Muslim world.
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Prince Henry of Portugal
He hoped to spread Christianity, contain Islam, tap Muslim wealth, and find Prester John’s legendary Christian kingdom, said to exist somewhere in Africa or Asia. As head of the Order of Christ – a powerful brotherhood of soldier-monks – Henry used their money to found a maritime school at Sagres.
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Order of Christ
While Henry stayed home to update maps, debrief returning sailors, order supplies, and sign paychecks, brave seamen traveled off under Henry’s strict orders not to return until they’d explored what was known as the “Sea of Darkness”.
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Sea of darkness
They discovered the Madeira Islands (1420), which Henry planted with vineyards, and the Azores (1427), which Henry colonized with criminals. But the next expeditions returned empty-handed, having run into a barrier – both a psychological and physical one – Cape Bojador (at the southwest corner of modern Morocco), with its reefs and currents, was seen as the end of the world – Beyond that, sea serpents roamed, while the hot equatorial sun melted ships, made the sea boil, and turned white men black.
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Sea serpents
Henry ordered scared, superstitious sailors to press on – After 14 unsuccessful voyages, Gil Eanes’ crew returned (1437), unharmed, with new knowledge that was added to corporate Portugal’s map library.
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1502 Portuguese Map of Discoveries
Henry gained a reputation as an intelligent, devout, celibate monk – In later years, he spent less time at court in Lisbon and more in desolate Sagres, where he died in 1460 (he’s buried in Batalha Monastery).
Henry died before finding a sea route to Asia and just before his voyages really started paying off commercially – A generation later, Vasco da Gama would sail to India, kicking off Portugal’s Golden Age.
There is a statue of Prince Henry the Navigator in the Henry the Navigator Square (Praça do Infante Dom Henrique), pointing out to sea.
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Henry the Navigator statue
Parish Church of St. Nicholas (Igreja Paroquial de São Nicolau) – This parish church is located at the southwestern end of the Henry the Navigator Square (Praça do Infante Dom Henrique).
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Parish Church of St. Nicholas (Igreja Paroquial de São Nicolau)
From here, we continued south to reach the Douro River.
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Douro River
Georgia found another “Cats” (actually “Hats”) store…
Hats and C.A.T.S. – Located at 117 Rua do Infante Dom Henrique, Paulo Lobo’s design store features a special taste for handicraft hats, conceptually inspired by Portuguese culture and sentiments. Colors and materials are clearly carefully considered and the hats are very well made.
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Hats and C.A.T.S.
We returned north towards the Henry the Navigator Square (Praça do Infante Dom Henrique) and visited the…
Church and Museum of St. Francis (Igreja e Museu de São Francisco do Porto) – This is Porto’s only church in the Gothic style – complete with a rose window, stair-step buttresses, and a statue of St. Francis of Assisi on the front.
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Church of St. Francis – Wikimedia – João Carvalho
Built between 1383 and 1410 by the order of the Franciscans on the location of a small church, the Church of Saint Francis (Igreja São Francisco) is a masterpiece of Gothic architecture.
During the two centuries that followed the church’s construction, several side chapels were built, in particular the chapel of Saint John the Baptist designed by João de Castilho, thanks to donations from wealthy families.
In the 18th century, the Church of Saint Francis underwent major renovation works: the portal was restored in a resolutely Baroque style and the interior of the building was covered with talhas douradas, gilded woodwork. History has it that the gildings necessitated 300 to 500 kilograms of Brazilian gold!
In 1833, the Franciscan convent adjoining the church was destroyed in a fire. The land on which the convent stood was ceded to the Associação Comercial do Porto, who built the adjoining Bolsa Palace (Palacio da Bolsa).
This Church has the finest interior in town, and it’s catacombs or crypt is stacked with anonymously numbered tombs holding the remains of past parishioners – go around to the left side of the Church for the entrance…
Today, a visit comes in two parts: the extravagantly decorated church and its jam-packed catacombs or crypt.
Cost/Hours – €4, €1 guidebook describes the tiles, Open Daily March – September, 9 am – 7 pm; October – February, 9 am – 5:30 pm; no photos in the Church, at Rua Infante Dom Henrique.
Visiting the Church – After getting your ticket, enter the church…
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Entrance into the church
Although the Church was ravaged by Napoleon and by the Portuguese during their 19th century Civil War, the interior remains stunning, with lavish chestnut carvings slathered with golf leaf.
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The nave
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The ceiling
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High Altar
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Side chapels
Wander down the main aisle like a bewildered 18th century peasant – The first big, ornate altar on the right shows how Franciscans weren’t always warmly received – at the top they are being cruelly tortured and crucified by Japanese (portrayed with Muslim features), and at the bottom they are being beheaded by Moors – Still, in the center, St. Francis encourages his followers on.
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Francisans altar
Across the nave, find the extremely fertile Tree of Jesse (1718), which is a very literal interpretation of the family tree of Jesus, resting upon a sleeping Jesse – Below that, Mary lies in a boat as Our Lady of Good Voyage, a patron saint of navigators.
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Tree of Jesse
Note the wooden boards on the floor – once there were graves of parishioners – The graves are now empty, but you can see the bones in the catacombs/crypt (see below).
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Wooden floor boards
To get there, cross over to the ticket desk – You’ll walk through a modest museum.
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Museum
Then head down the steps to the…
Catacombs or Crypt – Its walls and floors are neatly lined with tombs – The remains of former parishioners eventually ended up in an inglorious bone heap or ossuary.
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Catacombs or crypt
Peer down through the trapdoor near #32 (look for signs to the ossário) to see their final refuge.
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Ossuary
Exit the church. Just to the north is the…
Bolsa Palace (Palácio da Bolsa) – Stock Exchange – This unassuming building is neither a stock exchange nor a palace, but a breathtaking monument to civic and commercial pride, with some of the most lavishly decorated rooms in Portugal.
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Bolsa Palace – Photo: Portugal.com
Built over 70 years by the Commercial Association of Porto (Associação Comercial do Porto), the building celebrates Porto’s renowned work ethic and dedication to international trade.
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Built by the Commercial Association of Porto (Associação Comercial do Porto) – Wikimedia – António Amen
Commerce came to define Porto, as royalty or religion would define other cities (like Lisbon and Braga, respectively) – The Commercial Association of Porto (even had its own system of courts and a representative to the king).
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Commercial Association of Porto had its own courts and a representative to the king – Photo: Wikipedia
In 1832, the monastery of Saint Francis Church (next door) burned down, and the queen offered the property to the Commercial Association of Porto – They seized the opportunity to show off, crafting a building that would demonstrate the considerable skill of Porto’s tradesmen
The interior – which you can visit only with a 30-minute guided tour – is a proud showcase of decorative prowess, from inlaid-wood floors to plaster painted to resemble carved wood, and from the glorious glass-roofed atrium to the exactingly detailed Arabian Hall.
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Atrium – Flickr – Bela Lindtner
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Arabian Palace – Photo: MooreTravelTips.com
Drop in to see when the next tour ticket is available; guided tours (€8), leave every 30 minutes in whatever language in necessary (often English plus another language).
To avoid the wait, you can call to ask when the next English tour departs – or, if you’re nearby, just drop in and check the screens in the lobby: +351 223 399 013.
Hours – Open Daily April – October, 9 am – 6:30 pm; November – March, 9 am – 12:30 pm; 2 pm – 5:30 pm, these are the last tour times; no flash photos inside, in the big building marked Associaçao Comercial do Porto on Rua Ferreira Borges – www.palacioabolsa.com.
Visiting the Stock Exchange – Bolsa Palace: You’ll tour several rooms, big and small – After you buy your ticket and enter the palace…
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Buy your ticket, enter the Palace – Google Street View
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Bolsa Palace – Ground Floor
You’ll begin in the dramatic, central Atrium (Hall of Nations – Pátio das Nações), which is covered by a large metallic, octagonal dome with glass panels, designed by Tomás Soler and built after 1880.
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Atrium covered with a large metallic, octagonal dome with glass panels – Pinterest
The lower part of the dome is decorated with the painted coats-of-arms of Portugal and the countries with which Portugal had commercial relations in the 19th century.
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Coats of Arms of countries with commercial relations
The floor has beautiful mosaics.
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Beautiful mosaic floor
In the back of the Hall of Nations, climb the sumptuous Grand Staircase, built in 1868 by Gonçalves e Sousa, which leads to the upper floors and is adorned with busts by celebrated sculptors António Soares dos Reis and António Teixeira Lopes.
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The Grand Staircase
The ceiling frescoes were painted by António Ramalho.
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Ceiling Frescoes
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First Floor Plan
Several rooms in the Palace – display furniture by José Marques da Silva, allegoric paintings by José Maria Veloso Salgado and João Marques de Oliveira, sculptures by Teixeira Lopes and many other works of art.
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Various rooms in the Palace
The place is rife with symbolism and intricate, time-consuming craftsmanship intended only to impress: the complex patterned floors, carefully pieced together with Brazilian or African wood (from Portugal’s colonies).
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Patterned wood floors
An incredibly detailed inlaid table; created over three years using wood scraps from those same floors.
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Inlaid table
And a room that looks like it’s made of finely carved woodwork and bronze – until you realize it’s all painted plaster and gold leaf.
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Court (Tribunal) Room – Wikimedia – Daniel VILLAFRUELA
The knock-your-socks-off finale is the sumptuous Arabian Hall – This grand space – inspired by Granada’s Alhambra and several years in the making (built between 1862 and 1888 by Gonçalves e Sousa) – it was painstakingly decorated in the Moorish style with wood, plaster, and gold leaf – this room is used as reception hall for personalities and heads of state visiting Porto.
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Arabian Hall
This concludes our Porto Self-Guided Walking Tour, Part 3.
We have one more trip for the day…
Trolley to/from Foz do Douro (or simply “Foz”) – This is one of Porto’s trendiest, greenest, wealthiest, and most relaxing quarters, situated where the Douro River meets the Atlantic Ocean. We had a busy day, so we didn’t have much time to visit Foz…
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Taking the trolley to Foz
We got off the trolley at the Passeio Alegre tram stop and wandered through the adjoining park and along the waterfront.
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Google Earth – Aerial View of Foz Walking Tour area
Self-Guided Walking Tour of Foz:
We first viewed the chapel-lighthouse just south of the Passeio Alegre tram stop…
Capela-Farol de São Miguel-o-Anjo – The Chapel-Lighthouse of São Miguel-o-Anjo is a former hermitage and Portugal’s oldest existing lighthouse and one of the oldest in Europe.
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Capela-Farol de São Miguel-o-Anjo – Wikimedia – António Amen
The building has a Latin inscription on the south wall that says, when translated, “Miguel da Silva, bishop-elect of Viseu, ordered the construction of this tower to direct navigation, he himself gave and consigned fields purchased with his money, with the income from which fires were lit perpetually at night in the tower, in the year 1527”.
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Latin inscription on the south wall – Wikimedia – MariaCartas
We then walked northwest along the park on Rua do Passeio Alegre, noticing two obelisks as we reach the park…
Obeliscos da Prelada – These two obelisks were originally at the entrance to Quinta da Prelada in Porto before being moved here, having been designed by Nicolau Nasoni in the 18th century along with the respective residence, gardens and other decorative elements – for the Noronhas and Meneses family.
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Obeliscos da Prelada – Google Street View
We continued along the park on Rua do Passeio Alegre, and turned right on Largo da Igreja to reach the…
Igreja de São João Baptista da Foz do Douro – This little church is open Tuesday – Sunday, 9 am – 12 pm; 3 pm – 7 pm; closed Monday; Free.
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Igreja de São João Baptista da Foz do Douro – Wikimedia – António Amen
The niche in the façade displays the image of São João (St. John the Baptist).
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Saint John the Baptist – Photo: mjfs.wordpress.com
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Church plaque – Photo: TripAdvisor
This Baroque church has a remarkable altarpiece which is considered one of the finest King D. João V style altarpieces in Porto as well as eight baroque carved side altars.
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Nave of the church with main altarpiece and side altars – Wikimedia – Vitor Oliveira
Lago dos Meninos do Passeio Alegre (Boys’ Lake of Passeio Alegre) – Upon exiting the church, we returned to the park Jardim do Passeio Alegre and found this quiet and beautiful lake.
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Lago dos Meninos do Passeio Alegre – Google Street View
We then walked to the waterfront and at a viewpoint (Mirador desembocadura río Duero), got a great picture of the joining of the Douro River and the Atlantic Ocean.
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River Douro joining the Atlantic Ocean – Google Street View
After the viewpoint, we turned back into the park to find…
Casa de Banho Pública do Passeio Alegre – This little building is “one of the most beautiful public bathrooms in the city (Art Nouveau tiles included)”.
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Casa de Banho Pública do Passeio Alegre – Google Street View
Lago do Passeio Alegre – Just beyond these public bathrooms, we found another lake, this one with a fountain.
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Lago do Passeio Alegre – Google Street View
At the edge of the park, we turned left and went to the northwest end of the lake, where we found another fountain…
Chafariz do Passeio Alegre – Also known as Antiga Fonte dos Franciscanos, this fountain was designed by Nicolau Nasoni in the 18th century.
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Chafariz do Passeio Alegre (aka Antiga Fonte dos Franciscanos) – Photo: Imperdival
We now headed south along the western end of the park to the waterfront. To the left (east), at the edge of the park, we viewed the…
Monumento a Raul Brandão – This monument is located right next to the banks of the Douro River and aims to honor/mark the hundredth anniversary (in 1967) of the birth of the Portuguese writer Raul Brandão, in 1867.
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Monumento a Raul Brandão
We then followed the waterfront west to view the…
Farolim de Felgueiras – This 19th century lighthouse, also known as the Farol de Felgueiras, Farolim do Molhe de Felgueiras, or Farolim Cabeça de Molhe, is a lighthouse on the Portuguese Atlantic coast, situated on a jetty or mole on the right bank of the Douro River, at the point where the river meets the ocean.
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Viewing the Farolim de Felgueira
Now we returned to land and made a counterclockwise circle around the point, reaching the…
Forte de São João Baptista (Fort of St. John the Baptist) – This fort stands in a dominant position at the mouth of the Douro river, overseeing the access the city of Porto via the river.
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Forte de São João Baptista – Wikimedia – Henrique Matos
The fort was commissioned in 1567, one year after an attack by French pirates on Madeira. Construction of the fort began during the reign of King Sebastian (1557–1578), and it was remodeled in the 17th century.
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Aerial view of the Forte de São João Baptista – Wikipedia – Joseolgon
We now returned to the tram stop at Passeio Alegre and took the trolley to Porto.