May 9, 2024:
Today was a day to discover (as much as we can) prehistory. Our first visit was the National Museum of Prehistory in Les Eyzies, France, followed by a quick lunch in Les Eyzies, then a drive to Montignac, France to view the replica cave of Lascaux II, for our prebooked 1:30 pm English Tour time. We spent the late afternoon relaxing at our wonderful accommodation in Domme, France, La Perle de Domme.
Getting to the National Museum of Prehistory: It was a 31-minute scenic drive to Les Eyzies from our accommodation in Domme, France, through the outskirts of Sarlat-la-Canéda, France and various small towns and vineyards. When we arrived at Les Eyzies, we parked in the large free car park located in the center of the village along the main road, across from 19 Avenue de la Forge.
We walked from the Les Eyzies car park to the free Prehistory Welcome Center (aka Pôle d’interprétation de la Préhistoire or PIP, 30 Rue du Moulin, 24620 Les Eyzies, France, with flashy displays and mazes – better for kids, free, open Monday-Friday, 9:30 am – 12:30 pm & 2 pm – 6:30 pm, Sunday from 10:30 am, closed Saturday except July-August; the silver sign by the car park in Les Eyzies shows the way – we followed the path to reach the Prehistory Welcome Center; +33 5 53 06 06 97, www.pole-prehistoire.com).
From the Prehistory Welcome Center’s back door, we then made our way on foot to the National Prehistory Museum. This well-presented, modern museum houses more than 18,000 bones, stones, and other artifacts that were uncovered locally. It took us through prehistory—starting 400,000 years ago. Appropriately located on a cliff inhabited by humans for 35,000 years (above Les Eyzies-de-Tayac’s TI), the museum’s sleek design is intended to help it blend into the surrounding rock.
National Prehistory Museum (Musée National de Préhistoire) – Photo: OutdoorActive.com
Les Eyzies de Tayac flowers
Starting in 1913, Denis Peyrony, a tireless researcher whom we have to thank for the discovery of numerous sites, had the State purchase the ruins of the Château des Eyzies in order to conserve, study and display on site the archaeological heritage of the Valley of the Vézère.
Inaugurated on July 19, 2004, the museum expansion designed by Parisian architect Jean-Pierre Buffi considerably increased the accommodation capacity of the establishment and today offers the best visiting conditions to the public. Entrance fee – €6, €8 with temporary exhibits, one-hour guided visit (French and English): €9,50. Open October – May, Wednesday – Monday, 9:30 am – 12:30 pm & 2 pm – 5:30 pm, closed Tuesday; last entry 45 minutes before closing, +33 5 53 06 45 65, www.musee-prehistoire-eyzies.fr.
Museum sign
Les Eyzies is world-famous because it’s where the original Cro-Magnon man was discovered in 1868. Cro-Magnons are recognized as the earliest known race of modern humans, Homo sapiens. Generally considered the earliest European descendants, Cro-Magnons lived between 10,000 and 35,000 years ago. That breakthrough set of bones was found by workers building a road at the western end of the main street (today it’s just behind the Hotel of Monsieur Magnon – Hôtel le Cro-Magnon). The name “Cro-Magnon” translates as “Mr. Magnon’s Hole.”
Cro-Magnon man skull – Photo: leseyziesdetayac.info
When we first entered the museum, we were struck by the huge Mastodon in the entry hall. Next to the Mastodon is a timeline on a stone wall starting a mere 7 million years ago.
Mastodon – National Museum of Prehistory
Timeline starting 7 million years ago
In the next exhibit, we encountered the 10-year-old Turkana Boy, whose bone fragments were found in Kenya in 1984 by Richard Leakey and date from 1.5 million years ago.
Turkana Boy
Turkana Boy English plaque
After Turkana Boy, we climbed from the ground floor to level 1, to see various bones and artifacts, and a giant Megaloceros, a giant deer with giant antlers.
Various bones and artifacts
Megaloceros
Megaloceros English plaque
We saw more exhibits on the first floor and then continued on to the second floor (much of this floor was under construction).
Various other exhibits – first and second floor
We then took the elevator to the top floor and then walked along the cliff edge to see a statue honoring early man.
Walk along the cliff edge
Statue honoring Early Man – peterandnia.com
We then had a quick lunch in Les Eyzies (we ordered a set menu, but had to skip the desserts because of our need to get to Lascaux II in time for our 1:30 pre-booked English tour). There was free parking near Lascaux II, but we had to wait in the limited car park for other cars to leave before we found a free spot.
Lascaux II is an exact replica of the original Lascaux cave – accurate to within one centimeter – from 1948 – 1963, more than million people climbed through the prehistoric wonderland of incredibly vivid and colorful paintings of the original cave – but the visitors tracked in fungus on their shoes and changed the temperature with their heavy breathing. In just 15 years, the precious art deteriorated more than during the previous 15,000 years, and the original cave was closed to the public.
Lascaux II sign
The original cave was discovered accidentally in 1940 by four kids and a dog.
Plaques about the teenage discoverers of the original Lascaux cave
Lascaux IV is the newest replica cave – opened in 2017 with the latest technology – either or both replicas can be seen (photos are prohibited – the following photos are in the public domain). Lascaux II is open daily, 10 am – 7 pm; €16; includes a 75-minute tour. Lascaux IV is open daily 8 am – 7 pm; €22 includes a 40-minute tour, audio-guide, 3-D film, and many exhibits. A €29 combination ticket buys entry to Lascaux II and IV (we elected to just see Lascaux II).
Touring Lascaux II
Lascaux II cave paintings Photos: Wikipedia
After touring the wonderful cave paintings at Lascaux II, we drove back to our apartments accommodation in Domme, and enjoyed a beautiful afternoon relaxing at La Perle de Domme where they have free parking, a swimming pool, an outdoor patio and bar (to which they let us bring our own food and drink), as well as for a small fee, a spa and partial or full-body massages.
La Perle de Domme
Balloons overhead
Enjoying the afternoon, patio and wine bar at Le Perle de Domme