September 7, 2026:
Mostar is a city in southern Bosnia and Herzegovina, straddling the Neretva River. It’s known for the iconic Stari Most (Old Bridge), a reconstructed medieval arched bridge. The nearby alleys are full of shops and market stalls.
Mostar Walking Tour
We started and ended our Mostar Walking Tour at the Campanile Parking Lot behind the Franciscan Church of St. Peter and Paul. This church, completed in 1997 (after the early 1990s fighting stopped), has an enormous bell tower. Recently, the interior of the church has also had a complete makeover.
Bell Tower
Entrance to Church
New Interior
High Altar
Left Altar
Right Altar
Pulpit
Left Side
Right Side
Back
Stations of the Cross (detail)
There is a working monastery next door.
Working Franciscan Monastery Next Door
We next crossed the Bulevar (the front line of the fighting in the early 1990s) and started heading down Onešćukova street, across the Bulevar from the church.
At the corner was a vacant lot that has been donated by the City of Mostar to build a new Jewish Synagogue. There was some interesting street art behind this vacant lot.
Sight of Future Jewish Synagogue
Street Art Behind Jewish Synagogue Site
As we walked along Onešćukova street, we saw a bombed-out building from the early 1990s war on the right and the unfinished Marriot Hotel on the left.
Bombed-Out Building on the Right
Unfinished Marriot Hotel on the Left
We could also see (across the rooftops) the new Serbian Orthodox Church on a hill.
New Serbian Orthodox Church
We then crossed over the Radobolja River and entered Old Town Mostar.
Radobolja River
Old Town Mostar
We found an opening between buildings on the right to view Nezir’s Aga Mosque across the Radobolja river and the crooked bridge. The crooked bridge is a small stone bridge across the Radobolja river, the oldest one arch bridge in Mostar, built in 1558 during the Ottoman rule. Its builder was the Ottoman architect Ćejvan Ketoda.
Nezir’s Aga Mosque and the crooked bridge
We then returned to Onešćukova and Old Town Mostar.
Old Town Shop
Just before the Irma-Tima Restaurant, we took a detour to the left to see the Hamam Museum (now called the War Photo Museum). This used to be a bathhouse.
War Photo Museum (used to be a bathhouse)
To the right there is a courtyard and beyond that a terrace with restaurants with great views along the Neretva River.
Courtyard
Views from Terrace (with Restaurants)
We made our way back to Onešćukova and turned to the right to take stairs down to the Neretva River riverbank.
Here we saw divers practicing for their dives (or jumps) off the Old Bridge on a diving platform.
Diving Platform
We also saw an artist painting along the riverbank.
Artist Working Along the Riverbank
And we got a great view from underneath the Old Bridge.
View of the Old Bridge from the Riverbank
We climbed back up to Onešćukova and crossed over the Old Bridge. Right before crossing the bridge, there was a stone monument memorializing the 1993 war.
Crossing the Old Bridge
Don’t Forget ’93 Stone
Once we crossed the Old Bridge, we entered Coppersmiths’ Street (Kujundžiluk), and the Old Town Bazaar.
Coppersmiths’ Street (Kujundžiluk)
There were a few interesting art galleries.
Anel Pala Art Gallery
Atelier d’art Ɖul Emina (artist Sead Vladović)
About halfway up the hill along Coppersmiths’ Street (Kujundžiluk) we saw another Don’t Forget stone, and had a great view of the Old Bridge.
Don’t Forget Stone
View of Old Bridge from Coppersmiths’ Street
At the top of the hill, we passed the Ottoman Premium Delight Turkish sweets shop, the Urban Grill, and the Turkish Consulate.
Ottoman Premium Delight Turkish Sweets Store
Street Art by Ottoman Premium Delight
Urban Grill
Turkish Consulate
Across the street is the Bosnaseum Museum, which we toured.
Bosnaseum Museum
First we saw a film about Mostar before, during and after the 1990s war, including footage of the Old Bridge collapsing and being rebuilt.
Mostar Film, Rebuilding the Old Bridge
Then we saw several period rooms, and a model of a Herzegovina village.
National Costumes Room
Ancient Croatian Jobs Room
Ottoman Period in Mostar Room
Bosniak Muslim Room – 18th Century
Croatian Catholic Room – 19th Century
Serbian Orthodox Room, 20th Century
Period of Yugoslavia – Tito’s Room
Model of a Herzegovinian Village
We then visited the Koski Mehmet-Pasha Mosque. We entered a courtyard with a fountain, a graveyard, and a bazaar, and then entered the mosque.
Entrance to Courtyard
Fountain (šadrvan)
Graveyard
Bazaar
Front Door – Koski Mehmet-Pasha Mosque
Mosque Interior
Mihrab and Mimbar
Women’s Balcony
Calligraphy Over the Entrance
Stained Glass Windows
Mosque Dome
Sign Obliging the Properly Dressed
We then entered Braće Fejića Street, New Town Mostar.
Braće Fejića Street
We took a left off Braće Fejića Street to see a Turkish house, Bišćević Turkish House.
Bišćević Turkish House Entrance
Inner Garden with Fountain
Pull-Up Wooden Staircase
Living Room
Main Gathering Room
Bedroom
Utility Room
We walked further along Braće Fejića Street to see another mosque, the Karađozbeg Mosque, with its own cemetery behind the mosque.
Karađozbeg Mosque with its Muslim Cemetery
Across the street from the Karađozbeg Mosque was Osman Đikić’s Tomb and another Muslim Cemetery.
Osman Đikić’s Tomb
Muslim Cemetery (almost all 1990s graves)
We retraced our steps through Mostar Old Town and had an authentic Bosnian dinner at Restaurant Šadrvan.
Mostar Beer with Picture of Old Bridge (Restaurant Šadrvan)
This concludes our visit to Mostar.