Lisbon – Part 5

April 27, 2019:

Today we have another long schedule touring Lisbon: Mouraria District; Graça District Walking Tour; Graça District Street Art; Igreja e Convento da Graça (Church and Convent of Graça); Jardim/Miradouro da Graça (Garden/Viewpoint of Graça); National Pantheon; Igreja e Mosteiro de São Vicente de Fora (Church and Monastery of St. Vincent of Fora); Feira da Ladra (Flea Market); Casa-Museu Medeiros e Almeida (Medeiros and Almeida House-Museum); Monument dos Restauradores (Monument of the Restorers); Glória Funicular (Elevador da Glória); and the Principe Real District.

MOURARIA DISTRICT:

Capela de Nossa Senhora da Saúde (Chapel of Our Lady of Good Health):

The Chapel of Our Lady of Health is located in the Mouraria district, on Rua Martim Moniz, a locale formerly situated outside the city walls of Lisbon.

Built in 1505 by initiative of the artillerymen of the Lisbon garrison, it was dedicated to St. Sebastian, its patron and protector of evils such as war, famine and especially the plague, which had raged in the city and caused hundreds of victims. He was the object of great devotion.

In 1569, it was dedicated to Our Lady of Health and in 1662 welcomed her image, and became known by that name. It underwent works after being damaged by the earthquake of 1755. However, the portal attributed to João Antunes dates from the beginning of the 18th century.

Inside, the single nave, covered with ornamental stuccoed painting, is lined with panels of tiles attributed to the workshop of António de Oliveira Bernardes, which were damaged in the 19th century following the opening of two lateral altars. The main chapel, with vaulting around the edges, decorated with gold, green and white carving, displays the image of the patroness in an oval and vaulted altarpiece.

The Chapel of Our Lady of Health benefited not only the kings, queens and princes, but also noblemen, the military and benefactors. In 1861 D. Pedro V elevated it to the status of Royal Chapel.

Every year, on the first Sunday of May, the procession of thanksgiving for the protection of the Virgin takes place, a tradition that has been repeated since the 16th century.

Capela de Nossa Senhora da Saúde (Chapel of Our Lady of Good Health)

Centro Comercial Mouraria:

Down-to-earth shopping center with small shops & vendors selling clothing, souvenirs & more.

Centro Comercial Mouraria

Fado Memorial:

Just outside the Centro Comercial Mouraria is this memorial to Portugal’s Fado music…

Fado Memorial

GRAÇA DISTRICT WALKING TOUR:

We wandered around much of Graça… Part of the area was the “Star”area…

Graça District Walking Tour

GRAÇA DISTRICT STREET ART:

There is wide variety of street art in the Graça District…

Graça District Street Art

IGREJA E CONVENTO DA GRAÇA (CHURCH AND CONVENT OF GRAÇA):

The church and convent of Our Lady of Grace were built in 1291 but didn’t survive the 1755 earthquake. The connecting buildings were rebuilt in the Baroque style — the convent with a beautiful cloister and 18th-century tile panels; the church with gilded woodwork and grisaille paintings on the ceiling.

Igreja e Convento da Graça (Church and Convent of Graça)

JARDIM/MIRADOURO DA GRAÇA (GARDEN/VIEWPOINT OF GRAÇA):

A much-loved summertime hang-out of lisboêtas, this miradouro (lookout) sidles up to the baroque Igreja da Graça. It has an incredible view of the castle sitting plump on the hillside, the river and the Ponte 25 de Abril. Sunset is prime-time viewing at the kiosk terrace.

Jardim/Miradouro da Graça (Garden/Viewpoint of Graça)

NATIONAL PANTHEON (PANTEÃO NACIONAL):

The National Pantheon is located in the Igreja de Santa Engrácia, a 17th-century baroque church turned into a modern-day mausoleum for tombs of national celebrities.

National Pantheon (Panteão Nacional)

It’s a short walk from the National Pantheon to the…

IGREJA E MOSTEIRO DE SÃO VICENTE DE FORA (CHURCH AND MONASTERY OF ST. VINCENT OF FORA):

This Mannerist monument is one of the most beautiful Lisbon attractions, not just for its magnificent interior (which has the world’s largest collection of Baroque tiles — about 100,000), but also for the panoramic view over the city from the rooftop terrace by the towers.

Igreja e Mosteiro de São Vicente de Fora (Church and Monastery of St. Vincent of Fora)

Archway and fountain

Courtyard

It was founded in 1147 and rebuilt in 1582 outside the city walls, hence the “de Fora” (“on the Outside”) in the name.

The Church (which has free admission) has an imposing baroque altar and eight monumental sculptures.

Nave

Altar

Ceiling

Side Chapels

Statues

The Monastery next door, however, is open every day except Monday (Open Tuesday – Sunday, 10 am – 6 pm – last entry at 5 pm; Closed, Monday – €5; +65 – €2.50), allowing you to see cloisters covered with magnificent tiles.

Cloisters covered with tiles

The beautiful sacristy…

The sacristy

And the haunting Pantheon of the Bragança Dynasty of Portugal. Here in a central space are located the tombs of King D. Carlos I (1863-1908), his wife, Queen D. Amélia of Orléans (1865-1951), and their children, Prince D. Luís Felipe (1887-1908) and D. Manuel II (1889-1932), the last king of Portugal.

Entrance to the Pantheon

Pantheon sign and Statue of the Virgin Mary and Child

Next to the tombs of King D. Carlos I and the prince D. Luís Filipe, is the sculpture of a female figure symbolizing the Motherland (carved by Francisco Franco) mourning its martyrs the King and Prince, who were assassinated on February 1, 1908.

Tombs of King D. Carlos I and Prince D. Luis Filipe, with sculpture of a female figure,
symbolizing the country mourning its assassinated martyrs
(The piece is by the sculptor Francisco Franco)

Tomb of King Manuel II

Other tombs

Find the Monastery’s cistern and old ruins.

Cistern

Other Ruins

The Monastery also has a museum, which exhibits a collection of paintings, sculptures, gold, clothing, and pottery relating to the monastic order and, as well as a collection of seashells.

Museum

Make sure you walk the stairs (included in the entrance fee) to see the view from the Rooftop Terrace.

Rooftop Terrace

FEIRA DA LADRA (FLEA MARKET):

The Feira da Ladra, or Flea Market, which is immortalised in the poem by the Portuguese singer songwriter Sérgio Godinho, is held every Tuesday and Saturday in Campo de Santa Clara, behind the Monastery of São Vicente de Fora. Traditionally dedicated to selling used objects, you’ll find real gems, azulejos, antiques and handicrafts, amongst indescribable bric-a-brac. The market dates back to 1272 and was held in various parts of the city before settling permanently here.

Feira da Ladra (Flea Market)

CASA-MUSEU MEDEIROS E ALMEIDA (MEDEIROS AND ALMEIDA HOUSE-MUSEUM):

The Casa-Museu Medeiros e Almeida is one of the most important Portuguese private decorative arts collections, gathered by the businessman, collector, and benefactor António Medeiros e Almeida.

Casa-Museu Medeiros e Almeida (Medeiros and Almeida House-Museum)

MONUMENT DOS RESTAURADORES (MONUMENT TO THE RESTORERS):

The Monument of the Restorers is a monument located in Restauradores Square in Lisbon, Portugal. The monument memorializes the victory of the Portuguese Restoration War. The war, which saw the end of the House of Habsburg and the rise of the House of Braganza, lasted from 1640 to 1668.

Monument dos Restauradores (Monument of the Restorers)

GLÓRIA FUNICULAR (ELEVADOR DA GLÓRIA):

This time-honoured and very popular form of public transport connects downtown Lisbon’s main thoroughfare – the Avenida da Liberdade – with the cobbled, narrow-laned labyrinth of the ancient Bairro Alto district.

The most popular of all Lisbon’s ascensores, it hauls some three million passengers up and down one of the city’s steepest hills every year, offering visitors a thrilling ride in both directions.

The Glória Funicular started serving the city for the very first time on Saturday the 24th of October 1885, just eighteen months after the inauguration of Lisbon’s first funicular, the Ascensor do Lavra.

On the 1st of August 1914, it became the first of Lisbon’s three funiculars (the other one being the Ascensor da Bica near the Bairro Alto) to be powered by electricity in its twenty-ninth year of operation.

Originally it was powered by a system of counterbalances requiring 400 cubic-metres of water every day, which was supplied by the Amoreiras reservoir at a cost of 30 reis (the local currency at that time) per cubic-metre.

Later on, the Glória Funicular was powered by a steam engine, the boiler being installed in a building at Largo da Oliveirinha.

Glória Funicular (Elevador da Glória)

PRINCIPE REAL DISTRICT:

St. George and the Dragon:

La Paparrucha Restaurante, at R. Dom Pedro V 18, has this tiled work of art of St. George and the Dragon outside their restaurant.

St. George and the Dragon

Principe Real Garden (Jardim do Principe Real):

This romantic garden, laid out in 1863, is the center of the Príncipe Real district’s main square. Surrounded by elegant buildings, it’s an urban refuge with a gigantic parasol-like cedar tree, under which young couples sit for a while, as old men play cards and children run around a small playground.

Principe Real Garden (Jardim do Principe Real)

There’s also a café with outdoor seating, and two kiosks serving refreshments. Every Saturday it hosts a farmers’ market, offering organic fruits and vegetables. On the last Saturday and Monday of each month there’s also a crafts and antiques market.

Kiosk

EmbaiXada in the Ribeiro da Cunha Palace:

EmbaiXada is located in the Ribeiro da Cunha Palace, one of the most emblematic buildings of the trendy Príncipe Real neighborhood.

Ribeiro da Cunha Palace

This 20th century neo-Arab palace has been transformed into an innovative commercial gallery where several national brands and artists work on design, craftsmanship, fashion, cuisine, and Portuguese culture.