August 30, 2026:
Today we drove from Lake Bled to and over the Julian Alps, across Vršič Pass, then descended into the Soča Valley, staying the night in Kobarid.
On the Way to the Julian Alps
On the way to the Julian Alps, we made a few stops. The first one was in Dovje, where we stopped to learn about Jakob Aljaž, the “Triglav Priest” who actually purchased the land on the top of Triglav peak (the highest mountain in the Julian Alps) for 1 gulden.
Statue of Jakob Aljaž (pointing at his purchase – Triglav Mountain)
Jakob Aljaž Sign
Jakob Aljaž Sign (detail)
View of Triglav Mountain (on the left) from Dovje
Then we drove to Srednji Vrh, where we saw a couple of chapels and great views of the Julian Alps.
Hlebanjeva Chapel
Hlebanjeva Chapel (interior)
View of the Julian Alps from Hlebanjeva Chapel
The Chapel of the Holy Trinity was constructed in 1843 by Jakob and Šimen Hlebanja. In 1858, a bell, blessed in the name of Šimen (Simon), was crafted in the foundry of Anton Sammassa in Ljubljana. The bell rings every day in the chapel, and also tolls as a farewell to those who have passed away.
Path to Holy Trinity Chapel
Holy Trinity Chapel
Holy Trinity Chapel (interior)
View of the Julian Alps from Holy Trinity Chapel
Next to the Holy Trinity Chapel is a little free library.
Little Free Library next to Holy Trinity Chapel
On the way down the hill from Srednji Vrh, we stopped to see a Memorial to the Partisan Village (Srednji Vrh) – Slovene Partisans fought Axis occupiers and local collaborators in World War II, emerging from the Liberation Front established in April 1941, and ultimately integrating into Tito’s Yugoslav Army by 1945. During WWII, residents of Srednji Vrh aided the resistance by serving as messengers and distributing partisan leaflets across the mountainous terrain between Jesenice and Planica.
Memorial to the Partisan Village
We also stopped to take picture of a rock tunnel and the Jerm’n Waterfall.
Rock Tunnel
Jerm’n Waterfall
We then made our way to Kranjska Gora, a winter resort particularly popular with Croatian skiers. On the way, we stopped to take a picture of the Julian Alps at an Alpine Panorama.
Alpine Panorama
In Kranjska Gora, we stopped at a shrine for St. Bernard from Menthon, an archdeacon born in 923 in the valley of Aosta, Italy. He died on or about June 15, 1006 in Novara near Milan. Tradition has it that Saint Bernard of Aosta was canonized in the year 1120. In 1923 Pope Pius XI proclaimed him as the patron saint of the inhabitants of the Alps and mountaineers.
Chapel of St. Bernard (Kapelica Sv. Bernarda)
Chapel of St. Bernard (Kapelica Sv. Bernarda) (detail)
Traveling Over the Julian Alps (across Vršič Pass)
After Kranjska Gora, we started our climb over the Julian Alps (there are 50 marked switchbacks, 24 on the way up and 26 on the way down).
Our first stop was a Russian Chapel. The road over Vršič Pass was built during World War I by at least 10,000 Russian POWs of the Austro-Hungarian Empire to supply the Soča Front along the border. The POWs lived and worked in terrible conditions, and several hundred died of illness and exposure. On March 8, 1916, an avalanche thundered down the mountains, killing hundreds more workers. This chapel was built where the final casualty was found.
Russian Chapel Sign
Russian Chapel
Tomb of the Russian POWs
View from Russian Chapel
Russian Chapel Description
Next we stopped at a viewpoint for the Prisank Mountain Range. This range is unusual in that there is a “hole in the mountain” that can be viewed from the viewpoint.
Prisank Mountain Range
“Hole in the Mountain”
Prisank Mountain Range Description
Turning to the right from the viewpoint, we also had a view of Triglav, the highest mountain peak in the Julian Alps.
View of Triglav Mountain
After going over Vršič Pass, we started our descent toward the Soča Valley. We saw an old WWI guard house, then stopped to explore a tunnel marked 1916 that was part of the road’s original path.
1916 Tunnel
1916 Tunnel (interior)
Our next stop was the Šupca Viewpoint, where we could look to the right back towards Triglav Mountain and left towards the Soča Valley.
Šupca Viewpoint Sign
Views from Šupca Viewpoint
Then we stopped to see the Monument to Dr. Julius Kugy, a Trieste merchant who climbed the Julian Alps and then wrote about it.
Path to Julius Kugy Monument
Julius Kugy Monument Sign
Monument to Julius Kugy
View of the Mountains from Julius Kugy Monument
We then took a little detour toward the source of the Soča River to get another view of the mountains. From Zadnja Trenta we took a picture of the mountains.
Zadnja Trenta View of the Mountains
The Soča Valley
Our next stop was the Juliana Alpine Gardens, the oldest Alpine botanical garden in a natural environment in Slovenian territory. It was founded in 1926 by Albert Bois de Chesne (1871-1953).
Juliana Alpine Gardens Sign
Juliana Alpine Gardens
Selection of Flowers in the Juliana Alpine Gardens
Just after the Juliana Alpine Gardens, we saw the Church of Our Lady of Loreto in Trenta. The Church of Our Lady of Loreto in Trenta was built in 1690 at the initiative of Count Hermann Attems, the then owner of the Trenta ironworks, to serve the needs of miners and ironworkers. The ironworks operated in this area from the 16th century until the end of the 18th century.
Church of Our Lady of Loreto in Trenta
The exterior features a Baroque stone sculpture of the Virgin Mary standing in a niche on the main facade.
Baroque stone sculpture of the Virgin Mary
The interior of the church was painted in 1945 by the artist Tone Kralj. He worked within the context of the resistance against the Italian fascist authorities in Slovenian territory, which had been annexed to the Kingdom of Italy after the First World War under the Treaty of Rapallo. In his church murals, Kralj incorporated anti-war, anti-fascist and anti-Nazi symbols, while at the same time using his art to affirm the Slovenian national space.
Church Interior
Church Ceiling
One of the church’s special features is the wooden statue of the Black Madonna with Child, placed in a niche above the altar. The statue is covered by a canvas painting depicting the Holy Family and can only be seen on the Feast of Our Lady of Loreto on December 10th, and during the celebration of the feast day of Saints Joachim and Anne, which takes place on the last Sunday of July.
High Altar
Paintings on Each Side of the High Altar
Back of the Church
Stations of the Cross
Among the notable priests who served in Trenta was Frančišek Venceslav Luncenperger from Gorizia, who arrived in Trenta in 1715 and is still affectionately remembered by the locals as “rajnki Trentar” (the late Trentar). After his death in 1781, Trenta had no resident priest for as many as 77 years. He is buried in the church, and a commemorative plaque dedicated to him is set into the floor.
Frančišek Venceslav Luncenperger Commemorative Plaque in the Floor
Church of Our Lady of Loreto Description
View of the Mountains from the Church of Our Lady of Loreto
Close to the Church of Our Lady of Loreto there is a roadside shrine dedicated to Anton Tožbar the Elder, known locally as Špik, nicknamed Medved, Slovenian farmer, clergyman and mountain guide, born January 3, 1835 , died December 22 or 24,1891.
Anton Tožbar
Tožbar was the first mountain guide of Julius Kugy (1858–1944), the “father of mountaineering” in the Julian Alps. He was best known for an accident in which a bear tore off his lower jaw and tongue. Despite the terrible injury he suffered on April 24, 1871, he lived for another 20 years. Until his death, he wore a scarf over his mouth and neck, could only eat liquid food, spoke indistinctly, but still performed guiding duties. Špik was killed by a fallen spruce tree that he had cut down together with his son, Anton Tožbar Jr.
Shrine dedicated to Anton Tožbar the Elder
Shrine dedicated to Anton Tožbar the Elder (interior)
The inscription inside reads [translated to English]: In memory of the late Anton Tožbar (House No. 4, Trenta), aged 57, who died suddenly in the forest on December 22, 1891. May he rest in peace, and may the light of heaven shine upon him. Amen.
There is also a suspension bridge over the Soča River across the street from the Church of Our Lady of Loreto. We had a little fun bouncing on the bridge and taking pictures of the emerald Soča River.
Suspension Bridge Over the Soča River
The Emerald Soča River
Soon after the Church of Our Lady of Loreto there are a couple of roadside shrines, a cemetery, and the Trenta World War I Military Cemetery.
The first roadside shrine shows the cruxifixion.
Roadside Shrine
The second roadside shrine apparently shows a man killed by a hunting accident. The inscription reads [translated to English]: In memory. Mourning the death of Alojz Mlekuš, born in 1878, who died on November 22. May the Lord be merciful to him.
“Hunting Accident” Roadside Shrine
Cemetery
The Trenta World War I Military Cemetery has 184 persons interred, of which 134 were Russian POWs, 48 Austro-Hungarian, and 2 Italian soldiers.
Trenta World War I Military Cemetery
Trenta World War I Military Cemetery Sign
Next we stopped at the Triglav National Park Information Center in Trenta. We saw a 14-minute film, “Nature Without Borders” and toured the information center’s musum. The museum here provides a look (with English explanations) at the park’s flora, fauna, traditional culture, and mountaineering history.
Nature Without Borders Film
Flower and Haymaker Exhibits
Fauna Exhibit
View of the Trenta Valley from the Triglav National Park Information Center
The “Black Kitchen” (Lit Fires without a Chimney)
Traditional House
After the Triglav National Park Information Center, we stopped at another suspension bridge and took a picture of the view.
View of Second Suspension Bridge
Our next stop was the town of Soča, where we visited the Church of St. Joseph. During World War II, an artist hiding out in the mountains filled this church with patriotic symbolism (Slovenian artist Tone Kralj, the same artist who painted the Church of Our Lady of Loreto in Trenta).
The interior is bathed in Yugoslav red, white, and blue—a brave statement made when such nationalistic sentiments were dangerous.
Church of St. Joseph
Church Interior
Church Ceiling
Adorning the middle part of the ceiling is the image of Archangel Michael wrapped in the colours of the Slovenian flag as he is sleighing a three-headed dragon (symbolizing the three Axis powers). One of the dragon’s heads is surrounded by a glowing sun, a symbol of Japan, while the second head has the image of a German Nazi eagle and the third has the image of a Roman (Italian) – later fascist – wolf.
St. Michael with the Axis Powers at His Feet
Axis Powers (Eagle – Germany, Wolf – Italy, Sun – Japan)
High Altar
The tops of the walls of the church are lined with Slavic saints.
Slavic Saints on the Walls
The sculpted Stations of the Cross have the faces of hated Yugoslav enemies: a lederhosen-clad Hitler (pulling a rope to lift up the cross; fourth from altar on left) and Mussolini (seated, as Herod; first from altar on right).
Jesus Nailed to the Cross…Pulled by Hitler Himself
Jesus is Judged by…Mussolini
In front of the church there is a roadside shrine and a World War II Memorial.
The roadside shrine features the Virgin Mary and Child.
Roadside Shrine
The World War II Memorial includes a central panel listing names of individuals who died during the war, divided into “Padli Partizani” (Fallen Partisans) and “Umrli v Internaciji” (Died in Internment). It is topped with a prominent red star emblem and the inscription “Padli v NOB” (Fallen in the National Liberation Struggle).
World War II Memorial
Behind the church there is a church cemetery, with a special section devoted to Padli Borci Nov (Our Fallen Fighters) Graves – Partisans Who Fought Alongside Tito Against the Nazis (graves marked 1943, 1944, 1945).
Church Cemetery
Padli Borci Nov (Our Fallen Fighters) Graves
Up on a hill behind the church is a World War I Cemetery, holding more than 1,400 soldiers and POWs.
World War I Cemetery
World War I Cemetery Sign
Next door to the church is a market/bar with a couple of wooden sculptures by Miloš Domevšček.
Mlekar (The Dairyman) and The Forester by Miloš Domevšček
We capped off our day with a wonderful meal at Pristava Lepana Restaurant, part of Pristava Lepana Ranch (with a hotel, ranch and Lipizzaner horses).
Pristava Lepana Restaurant
Our delicious meals
Pristava Lepana Ranch and Hotel
Lipizzaner Horses
We spent the night in Kobarid, Slovenia.