April 10, 2019:
Today we did a Day Trip from Porto to Guimarães. A little over an hour train ride from Porto, Guimarães was easy to access, to navigate and to enjoy.
Guimarães Overview
Guimarães is an exceptionally preserved and historically significant Portuguese city – Often referred to as the birthplace of Portugal, this must-see destination enables tourists to explore the country’s past and marvel at the origins of its architecture.
Originally a rural property – the estate Quintana de Vimaranes – in the second half of the 10th century the rich Countess of Galician origin, widow of Count Hermenegildo, the Countess Mumadona, decided to build a monastery – the Mosteiro of São Mamede or Mosteiro of Guimarães.
This was followed by the building of a castle to protect this monastery from the frequent raids carried out by Normans from the North of Europe, and by Muslims coming from the lands of the south – This hilltop, 10th-century Castle of Guimarães, with its sweeping city views, is one of the highlights of the city.
Castle of Guimarães – One of the Seven Wonders of Portugal – Photo: Portugal Green Walks
With the passing of time, the town grew, and, at the end of the 11th century, there came to reside here D. Teresa, daughter of Afonso VI of León, and her husband, Count D. Henrique, a noble of French origin – Here, according to tradition, was born the eldest of their sons – D. Afonso Henriques – who some years later, in the first half of the 12th century, became the first King of Portugal, after going into battle against his mother Teresa and her Galician lover Fernando Pérez de Traba
D. Afonso Henriques, 1st King of Portugal,
reigned July 26, 1139 – December 6, 1185
By the 15th century the city had grown significantly – the restored Palace of the Dukes of Bragança was built then in the style of a French chateau by D. Afonso, the illegitimate son of King D. João I, 8th Count of Barcelos and 1st Duke of Bragança – at the time one of the richest and most powerful men in Portugal.
Statue of D. Afonso Henriques outside the Palace of the Dukes of Bragança – Photo: pacodelanheses.com
Between the palace and the castle is the Romanesque Igreja de São Miguel do Castelo (Church of Saint Michael of the Castle), built in the 13th century.
Igreja de São Miguel do Castelo
(Church of Saint Michael of the Castle) – Photo: Visit Portugal
After arriving at the Guimarães train station, we walked a short 12 minutes (we could have hired an UberX to drive us for €2-3)…
Largo do Toural – The sign on the old “Customs Tower” “Aqui Nasceu Portugal” on our right as we approached Largo do Toural means “Portugal was Born Here”, in reference to the birth in Guimarães of the 1st King of Portugal, D. Afonso Henriques.
“Aqui Nasceu Portugal” “Portugal was Born Here”
Considered today as the heart of the city, Largo do Toural was in the seventeenth century a wide expanse next to the main gate of the village (Porta da Vila), where cattle and other products were held. Currently, the Largo do Toural is an ample square – In the last intervention in 2011, a three bowled Renaissance water fountain, originally placed here in 1583, which had been moved to the Largo Martins Sarmento from 1873 to 2011, was brought back here.
Largo do Toural and the three-bowl-fountain
We had skipped breakfast, so we grabbed some at a pastry on the Largo do Toural…
Pasteleria Clarinha – Open daily, 8 am – 8 pm; R. Paio Galvão 87, 4810-445 Guimarães; +351 253 516 513.
Pasteleria Clarinha on the Largo do Toural
Igreja/Convento de São Domingos (Church/Convent of Saint Dominic) – We then walked a short distance to this church/convent. Open Monday – Friday, 7 am – 12 pm; Saturday, 5 pm – 7 pm; Sunday, 7 am – 12 pm; Free.
The first Dominican monastery in Guimarães, the Convento de São Domingos (Convent of Saint Dominic), was erected between 1271 and 1278. Later, King D. Denis ordered the transfer of the building site and the demolishing of the first convent – the works were finished in 1397 – During the 18th and 19th centuries the original traces of the building were deeply altered, with Gothic elements competing with the Baroque and Romantic reminiscences.
Convento de São Domingos (Convent of Saint Dominic)
After some extinctions, demolitions, acquisitions and surrenders, the Blessed Sacrament of the Church of S. Paio was transferred to the Igreja de São Domingos (Church of Saint Dominic), which, since 1914, has been invested as the parochial church in the parish of S. Paio.
Igreja de São Domingos (Church of Saint Dominic)
The two statues at the front of the church are Saint Francis (on the left) and Saint Dominic (on the right).
Saint Francis and Saint Dominic statues by the main door – Wikimedia – Krzysztof Golik
We returned to Largo do Toural and visited the…
Basílica de São Pedro (Church of St. Peter) – Open Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and Friday, 8 am – 12 pm; 2 pm – 5:30 pm; Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday, 8 am – 12 pm; Free.
This church was built in 1737, presenting great simplicity and an elementary architecture – In 1750 it was blessed and now embodies the image of its patron saint, St. Peter.
Basílica de São Pedro (Church of St. Peter) – Photo: Wikipedia
The church plant is longitudinal, with a main chapel and a single rectangular nave – The main chapel is separated from the nave by a perfect back curved arch, and in it stands the altarpiece, with blue and gold carvings, still a manifestation of the eclectic taste of the end of the 19th century.
Nave – Basílica de São Pedro (Church of St. Peter)
We now made our way to…
Igreja/Convento de São Francisco (Church/Convent of Saint Francis) – Open Tuesday – Saturday, 9:30 am – 12 pm; 1 pm – 5 pm; Sunday, 9:30 am – 1 pm; Free.
Igreja/Convento de São Francisco (Church/Convent of Saint Francis)
Franciscan statues outside the Church/Convent of Saint Francis
Bell Tower
The history of the Franciscan Order in Guimarães dates back to 1217, in the reign of D. Afonso III when Brother Gualter, a Friar Minor, was sent to Portugal and reached Guimarães to introduce this Mendicant order into the country.
Saint Gualter
Saint Gualter was a Franciscan religious sent on mission to Portugal in the early thirteenth century by St. Francis of Assisi.
The city of Guimarães dedicates to him every year on the first weekend of August its festivities of the city, called “Festas Gualterianas“.
Although he is not the patron saint of the city (this title belongs to Our Lady of Oliveira), this was a saint who has over time won the devotion of the Vimaranenes, due to the miracles attributed to him.
Our Lady of Oliveira, Patron Saint of Guimarães – Photo: odogmadafe
Friar Gualter and his companion Friar Zacharias arrived in Portugal in 1217 , sent by Francis of Assisi with the aim of bringing to the country the newly created Order of Friars Minor (the Franciscans).
Zacarias went south, creating convents in Alenquer and Lisbon, while Gualter settled in Guimarães – Initially, Friar Gualter settled near the Santa Catarina Hill (Penha), in a place since then called Fonte Sante, in Urgeses, south of Guimarães.
Thanks to his actions and preaching, Friar Gualter received the sympathy of the inhabitants of Guimarães, which led the friars to move to a place closer to the town, called São Francisco o Velho (and later Minhotinho) where was located the first Franciscan house – Friar Gualter probably died in 1259 and was buried in the primitive convent.
After a very precarious first period, the Franciscans of Guimarães settled in 1271 in a lodge located near the walls of the village, in which they built a convent – In these early times the friars frequently clashed with the Collegiate of Guimarães, which tried to prevent the installation of the Order in the village.
The Franciscan convent next to the walls would last a short time, because in 1325 the building had to be demolished by order of King D. Denis, for compromising the security of the town in case of siege – The friars moved to some precarious houses until 1400, when King D. João I ordered the rebuilding of the Convent, in the place where it still stands – this building project lasted for a long time, practically through the 15th century.
King D. Denis and Queen Consort Elisabeth of Aragon,
Reigned February 6, 1279 – January 7, 1325
Popular devotion to Saint Gualter and the miracles attributed to him led to the creation of the Brotherhood of Saint Gualter around 1527 – As early as 1577, the Brotherhood built a chapel in the church of the Order’s convent, where were located the relics of the saint – The Brotherhood organized an annual procession, as recorded in a renewal charter granted in 1622 by King Philip III.
The chapel of Saint Gualter of the Franciscan church was demolished in 1750 and only re – established in 1800 – In the middle of that century, the altar of the Brotherhood was transferred to the Church of Our Lady of Consolation and the Holy Steps of Guimarães, where there is now located a nineteenth-century image of the saint.
Image of St. Gualter, in the Church of the Our Lady of Consolation and the Holy Steps of Guimarães – Photo: Wikidata
In 2009 were rediscovered, hidden in an old image of rock in the Franciscan church, human remains that would be the relics of Saint Gualter – these relics are now displayed in the Igreja de São Francisco (Church of St. Francis).
Relics of Saint Gualter displayed in the Church of St. Francis – Photos: autocaravanista.blogs.sapo.pt
Visiting the Church:
Main door of the church
The head of the church is composed of a large central polygonal apse flanked by two much smaller apsidoles – The general scheme is thus similar to that of the Mendicant Gothic common in Portugal.
Gothic Head of the Church
The interior of the church is of single nave with lateral chapels – This space is the result of a great reformation between 1746 and 1749 that suppressed the divisions of the church body, originally composed of three naves.
Nave of the church
Triumphal Arch with Royal Crown and Symbol of the Franciscan Order – Flickr – ChihPing
Exterior of Lateral Chapels
Interior of Lateral Chapels
The walls of the main chapel are covered with white-blue tiles of hagiographic character from the first half of the 18th century, reporting the life of Saint Anthony, of uncertain authorship.
Azulejos in the Main Chapel
The main altarpiece, designed by Miguel Francisco da Silva, was built in 1743 and executed by the engraver Manuel da Costa Andrade – It is inspired by the altarpiece of the main chapel of the Cathedral of Porto and served as a model for others in the region.
High Altar in the Main Chapel
Detail – High Altar
The wooden ceiling of the nave is decorated with illusionist paintings (trompe d’oeil).
Ceiling of the nave
Pulpit
Side chapels
Visting the Convent:
Convent doors
Convent
The cloister of the Convent is built on two floors in a Mannerist style, by the master Vimaranense Gonçalo Lopes, and is located directly behind the Church nave.
Cloister
The Hall of the Chapter/Sacristy of the Convent is richly decorated.
Hall of the Chapter/Sacristy
The ceiling of the Hall of the Chapter/Sacristy has the coat of arms of King D. João I, with a ceiling of painted coffins and black-wood bows.
Ceiling of the Hall of the Chapter/Sacristy has the coat of arms of King D. João I
Our next stop is the…
Largo República do Brasil (Republic Square of Brazil) – Largo da República do Brasil, previously known as Campo de São Mamede or Field of São Mamede, holds a significant place in Portuguese history. It was on this field where the Battle of São Mamede took place on June 24, 1128. This battle marked an important turning point in establishing Portugal’s independence from the Kingdom of León.
Aerial photo of the Largo República do Brasil – Photo: www.adcoesao.pt
The square got its current name after Brazil declared independence from Portugal in 1822 to commemorate their shared historical ties.
Largo República do Brasil (Republic Square of Brazil) – Wikimedia – John Samuel
Upon reaching the square, turn right to reach…
Igreja e Oratórios de Nossa Senhora da Consolação e Santos Passos (Church and Oratory of Our Lady of Consolation and Holy Steps) – The church’s origins date back to a small hermitage dedicated to Our Lady of Consolation, which was built in March 1576. In October 1785, the new church, an example of Baroque space in Guimarães, was completed, where two towers were added, as well as the staircase and the balustrade.
Church and Oratory of Our Lady of Consolation and Holy Steps – Photo: Wikimedia
Cost/Hours – Open Monday – Saturday, 7:30 am – 12 pm; 3 pm – 5 pm; Sunday, 7:30 am – 12 pm; Free.
The interior of the church consists of a single nave of rectangular shape
Nave – Wikimedia – Pedro Siles
Within the interior, there are fourteen paintings of the eighteenth century, of French origin, with mother-of-pearl frames, representing the Via Sacra (Holy Way).
Google Street View – Fourteen Via Sacra paintings
Exit the church and follow the Largo República do Brasil (Republic Square of Brazil) northwest until you reach on your right…
Passos do Campo da Feira – is one of the remaining five (there were originally seven) Steps or Stations of the Via Sacra (Holy Way) in Guimarães.
Passo do Campo da Feira
The Steps or Stations of the Via Sacra (Holy or Sacred Way)
The Steps or Stations of the Via Sacra (Holy Way) are popular demonstrations of religiosity and devotion to the Passion of Christ, which were present not only in the temples, but sometimes spread in small oratories by the city itself.
In Guimarães, the Steps or Stations, were seven at the beginning and were erected in 1727 by the Brotherhood of Our Lady of Consolation and the Holy Steps – Over time and according to the growth of the city, they were being transferred or dismantled which led to great difficulty for identification, once the sculptures were either dispersed or regrouped arbitrarily during the demolitions or transfers.
Today Guimarães only has five Steps or Stations of the Via Sacra (Holy Way) remaining: 1) Passo do Campo da Feira, 2) Passo da Senhora da Guia, 3) Passo do Santa Maria, 4) Passo do Largo do Carmo, and 5) Passo do Largo João Franco.
Our next stop, the Passo da Senhora da Guia, houses the second remaining Step or Station of the Via Sacra (Holy Way) and is the final stop on our Guimarães Self-Guided Walking Tour, Part 1.
Passo da Senhora da Guia and Capela do Senhor dos Passos
Passo da Senhora da Guia
Museu de Alberto Sampaio (Museum of Alberto Sampaio) – This museum, part of a former monastery located on the site dating from around 950 founded by the Countess Mumadona Dias, holds religious art and features a beautiful cloister. Open Tuesday – Sunday, 9 am – 6 pm; Closed Monday and Major Holidays; €3; Rua Alfredo Guimarães, 4800-407 Guimarães; +351 253 423 910.
Museu de Alberto Sampaio – Photo: Portugal Travel
The museum was created in 1928 to house the artistic collection of the Collegiate Church of Nossa Senhora da Oliveira and other churches and convents of Guimarães.
In view of the fact that is occupies that space that belonged to the Collegiate Church of Nossa Senhora da Oliveira, it is of great historic and artistic value, as evidenced by the cloister and the medieval rooms that surround it, the former Priory House and the House of the Canons.
Space that belonged to the Collegiate Church of Nossa Senhora da Oliveira
It has important sculpture collections (architectural, freestanding and tombstones), from the Medieval and Renaissance periods and up to the 18th century.
From its jewelry collection, one of the best in the country, the highlight goes to D. Sancho I’s Roman chalice, the image of Santa Maria de Guimarães (13th century), the processional crosses, and the magnificent Gothic retable of gilded silver representing the Nativity, from the end of the 14th century.
Chalice of D. Sancho I – Photo: TripAdvisor
Wooden Madonna – Photo: www.arteguias.com
14th Century Gothic Nativity Retable – Flickr – Monestirs Puntcat
Also worthy of being highlighted in the museum are the vest that King D. João I wore during the Battle of Aljubarrota, the 16th century fresco representing the Beheading of Saint John the Baptist, the collection of paintings from the 16th – 18th centuries, the Manueline and Baroque woodcarvings, the embroidered vestments, the azulejaria (tiles) and faience (glazed ceramic ware).
Vest of King D. João I – Photo: Portugal Visitor
Selection of museum items
As you continue north on Rua Alfredo Guimarães from the museum, you will notice a cross on your right (Cruzeiro de Nossa Senhora da Guia / Cross of Our Lady of the Guide).
Cruzeiro de Nossa Senhora da Guia (Cross of Our Lady of the Guide) – Google Street View
Largo da Oliveria – The picturesque structure in the middle of this medieval square is the Padrão do Salado (or Padrão Comemorativo da Batalha do Salado ou Padrão da Nossa Senhora da Vitória / Commemorative Standard of the Battle of Salado or Stand of Our Lady of Victory).
Padrão do Salado
This structure was ordered constructed by King Afonso IV in memory of the Battle of Salado of October 30, 1340, a victory of the Portuguese and Castilian forces over the Moorish kingdom of Granada.
The cross in the middle was executed in 1342 and offered by Pero Esteves, a Vimaranian dealer residing in Lisbon.
Other views of the Padrão do Salado
The cross depicts Christ Crucified on one side and the Virgin Mother on the other side.
Christ Crucified
Virgin Mother on the cross – Photo: portojofotos.blogspot.com
Battle of Salado, fought in 1340 along the Salado River
in the South of Spain
To the right of the square, behind the memorial, is the…
Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Oliveira (Church of Our Lady of Oliveira) – The origins of the Church of Our Lady of Oliveira go back to the monastery on the site dedicated founded by Countess Mumadona Dias, about 950.
Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Oliveira (Church of Our Lady of Oliveira)
Open Monday – Saturday, 8:30 am – 12 pm; 3:30 pm – 7:30 pm; Sunday, 9 am – 1 pm; 5 pm – 8 pm; Free.
The invocation of Our Lady of Oliveira prevailed after 1342, with the greening of an olive tree in the square.
The Legend of the Olive Tree of Largo da Oliveira
Legend says that a miracle was responsible for this square being called the Largo da Oliveira – An olive tree, planted in front of the Igreja de Santa Maria de Guimarães, dried-up.
In 1342, the tree bore new leaves and fruit, when Pero Esteves, a Vimaranense businessman living in Lisbon, ordered that a Norman cross was to be placed by the tree.
The news spread everywhere that this was a miracle by Santa Maria (Saint Mary)– Since that time, the square has been called the Largo da Oliveira.
Consequently, the Virgin in the adjoining church had been renamed Nossa Senhora da Oliveira (Our Lady of Oliveira) and the church the Igreja da Oliveira (Church of Oliveira).
The olive tree remained in the square until 1870, the year in which, against the will of the people, it was removed – It was only in 1985, the year of the last intervention in the square, that once again an olive tree was placed in the location where it supposedly was initially based.
Olive tree in the square – Photo: chrispythoughts
On the stone base of the tree’s planter is an inscription that indicates the three most important dates of its history: 1342 (miracle), 1870 (removal), and 1986 (restoration).
The current building evidences the successive remodels and additions, integrating elements from different epochs – the Gothic reconstruction promoted by D. João I; and the church tower of Manueline characteristics, completed about 1513-1515.
The church tower
The main chapel of the church, of classic architecture, was rebuilt in the 17th century by D. Pedro II; the stuccoes of the larger and collateral chapels are references to the neoclassical reform begun in 1830; the last intervention dates back to the 19th century and was intended to leave in sight the granite of the walls and columns of medieval origin.
Nave
High Altar
Lateral Chapels
Organ
The church has been classified as a National Monument since 1910.
Exit the church and look at the west side of the square to see some pretty and unusual medieval buildings.
Unusual buildings along Largo da Oliveira
Detail – House with birds leaving
On the north side of the square stands the medieval building of the old Paços do Concelho (Old Town Hall), topped by a 19th century stone sculpture of a warrior that is a representation from the old Customs Building, which was demolished in 1876.
Paços do Concelho (Old Town Hall) and stone warrior statue
According to tradition, the double-faced stone warrior symbolizes a tribute to the double contribution of the inhabitants of Guimarães in the conquests in Africa.
The Two-Faced Statue of Guimarães
The two-faced warrior statue at the former Paços do Concelho, is at the root of the affirmation made about the Vimaranenses that they are “two-faced” people, a very depreciative affirmation that implies that the people of Guimarães have a dual character.
Two Faces Statue – Photo: emajboutiquehotel.com
Actually, the statue refers to the two faces of the military conquest of Ceuta – The Portuguese troops were organized into contingents of different cities – When the troops from Barcelos waivered, the troops from Guimarães took on the defense from two positions (hence the two faces).
Conquest of Ceuta – from: Wikipedia
As a consequence, the king punished those from Barcelos, sentencing two councilors from that town to sweep the streets of Guimarães on the eve of festive days – They had to take a broom, use a red beret and have a band with the same color and one foot bare – At the end, when the task was completed, they were to hand over to the adverse alderman, in bondage, the beret and band.
Some of these scapecoats of Barcelos their grandparents’ offenses were exempt from the penalty, as they paid, a fine, for which they were condemned – This punishment was in effect until the end of the 16th century.
Praça de São Tiago (Square of St. James) – This next square is one of the most characteristic public spaces in the city.
Praça de São Tiago (Square of St. James) – Photo: Wikidata
Forming a very old part of the city, this square is surrounded by beautiful houses with typically northern features, simple three-story 16th and 17th-century constructions, whose wooden balconies illustrate the great skill of the carpenters at that time.
Wooden balconies – Photo: Wikimedia
Tradition has it that St. James the Apostle brought an image of the Virgin Mary to Guimarães, which he placed in a pagan temple that stood on this site, so that thereafter this place became known as the Square of St. James (Largo de São Tiago).
There used to be a small chapel here established by the Franks that accompanied Count D. Henrique, dedicated to St. James that was demolished at the end of the 17th century and replaced by another that was also demolished in the 19th century.
Georgia and Nancy shopping on the Square of St. James (Largo de São Tiago)
Since this is the square of St. James, look for the shell on the pavement symbolizing the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela, Spain to honor St. James.
Shell on the pavement symbolizing the pilgrimage
to Santiago de Compostela, Spain
Still on the pavement we also find the first words of the Charter of Foral, which Count Henrique gave to the Vimaraneans in the distant 10th century: “Ad vos homines qui venistis populare in Vimaranes et ad illos qui ibi habitare volerint“, which means in English, “To you men who came to settle in Guimarães and to those who want to live here” and referred to the people who were going to live in the newly formed Vila de Guimarães.
Latin inscription on the pavement
For tourists wishing to follow an organized tour or pick up a free map, there is a Tourist Information Office (TI) located in a corner of the square (open daily from 9:30 am – 6:30 pm – off peak opening times may vary).
Tourist Information Center (TI)
Go north on Rua Santa Maria and go under the arch (with a coat of arms). On your right you’ll see…
Go north on Rua Santa Maria under an arch (see the coat of arms)
New Town Hall (Câmara Municipal de Guimarães) – Formerly a convent (Convento de Santa Clara), this building now houses the Guimarães Town Hall – The Baroque façade of the building has a niche above the main portal, where can be seen the image of the patron saint Clare.
New Town Hall (Câmara Municipal de Guimarães)
The Convento de Santa Clara was built originally, in the 16th century, by order of the Canon Baltazar de Andrade – On either side of the main portal, two seraphs hold a tablet with the inscription, 1741, the year in which the existing façade of the building was constructed.
The main portal of the New Town Hall
The convent was abandoned in 1834, the year in which the religious orders in Portugal were dissolved – In 1891, the Seminar de Nossa Senhora da Oliveira (Seminar of Our Lady of Oliveira) installed itself on the premises – Since 1975, the building has housed the services of the City Council of Guimarães.
New Town Hall Cloister
Exit the New Town Hall – directly across the street is the…
Guimarães Library (Biblioteca Municipal Raul Brandão) – Open Monday – Friday, 9:30 am – 6:30 pm; Saturday, 10 am – 1 pm; Closed, Sunday.
Guimarães Library (Biblioteca Municipal Raul Brandão)
To the left of the Guimarães Library at Rua de Santa Maria 39 is RÉSVÉS Restaurante (where we’ll eat later).
Passo do Santa Maria – Continue north on Rua de Santa Maria one block until you see on your right at Rua de Santa Maria 62 the third of the remaining five Steps or Stations of the Via Sacra (Holy or Sacred Way) in Guimarães.
Passo do Santa Maria
Continue north on Rua de Santa Maria until you reach a leafy square…
Largo Martins Sarmento (or Largo do Carmo) – This square/park has a fountain, shade trees, grass, and a monument to Martins Sarmento.
Largo Martins Sarmento (or Largo do Carmo) – Photo: All About Portugal
Francisco Martins Sarmento was a noted archaeologist and Portuguese writer based in Guimarães.
Francisco Martins Sarmento
(b. March 9, 1833 – d. August 9, 1899) – from: Wikipedia
Monument to Martins Sarmento – Wikimedia – Tm
To the east of this square is a…
Carmelite Convent (Lar de Santa Estefánia) – Home of the former convent of the Carmelites, today this is a social center for the children of Guimarães.
Lar de Santa Estefánia – Photo: Wikimedia
Interior
Also located on the east side of the square is the fourth of the remaining five Steps or Stations of the Via Sacra (Holy or Sacred Way) in Guimarães, called the Passo do Largo do Carmo or Capela dos Passos da Paixão de Cristo.
Passo do Largo do Carmo – Flickr – Ricardo Ribeiro
Passo do Largo do Carmo Station – Photo: All About Portugal
Next to the Passo do Largo do Carmo is the…
Igreja Nossa Senhora do Carmo (Church of Our Lady of Carmel) – The construction of the church began in 1685, and is evidence of the Baroque style.
Igreja Nossa Senhora do Carmo (Church of Our Lady of Carmel)
Azujelo dedicated to the Virgin Mary, Our Lady
The church’s main altar is occupied by the image of Our Lady of Carmel – the body of the church is divided from the main chapel by an arch of stone, and is enriched by two side altars: the one of the Gospel, dedicated to Santa Ana; the side of the Epistle, by the old choir, that of the Dead Lord, modernly erected with particular initiative and devotion
Main Chapel
Side Altar dedicated to Santa Anna
We’ve reached the end of our Guimarães Self-Guided Walking Tour, Part 2.
Guimarães Self-Guided Walking Tour, Part 3:
Continue north from Largo Martins Sarmento (or Largo do Carmo) until you reach the…
Estátua a D. Afonso Henriques (Statue of D. Afonso Henriques) – The Statue of D. Afonso Henriques, Portugal’s first King, is located next to the Palace of the Dukes of Bragança, and near the Castle of Guimarães and is a work of Soares dos Reis (José António Gaspar created the pedestal) – The bronze statue was built in 1888 and the idea of its construction came from a group of Portuguese living in Rio de Janeiro – the necessary funds for construction were raised in both Rio de Janeiro and Guimarães.
The statue was originally in the Largo de São Francisco, then in the Largo do Toural, before being moved to its current location here.
Estátua a D. Afonso Henriques (Statue of D. Afonso Henriques)
Walk east from the statue to the…
Palace of the Dukes of Bragança (Paço dos Duques de Bragança) – A Majestic 15th century manor house, built probably between 1420 and 1422, by D. Afonso, the future 1st Duke of Bragança and 8th Duke of Barcelos, the bastard (illegitimate) son of King João I and Inês Pires Esteves (she is sometimes said to be the daughter of a Jewish cobbler, but could also have been from an old Portuguese noble family).
Palace of the Dukes of Bragança (Paço dos Duques de Bragança) – Photo: X.com
The palace served as the residence of D. Afonso and of his second wife, D. Constança de Noronha, known as the “Duchess Saint” – It is believed that, after becoming a widow, she dedicated herself exclusively to a religious life and to aiding the impoverished population – At that time, the ducal palace would have been transformed into an immense shelter permanently open to the needy.
Dom Afonso I, 1st Duke of Bragança
(b. 1377 – d. 1461)
Tomb of D. Constança de Noronha († 1480),
Convento de São Francisco, Guimarães – Wikipedia – José Luis Filpo Cabana
Open Daily, 10 am – 6 pm (last entry 5:30 pm); €5 (65+ €2.50) (Free, 1st Sunday of every month) – http://pdmas.guimaraes.pt/paco/.
The palace, with the architectural characteristics of a fortified house, with roofs of strong slopes and numerous cylindrical chimneys that denote the influence of the seigniorial architecture of Northern Europe, is a unique example in the Iberian Peninsula.
Aerial View – Palace of the Dukes of Bragança – Photo: Wikipedia
The sixteenth century marks the beginning of progressive abandonment and consequent ruin that worsened until the twentieth century – The rebuilding of the palace began in 1937 and lasted until 1959, when it was opened to the public and transformed partially into a museum (1st floor), a wing for the Presidency of the Republic (main facade, 2nd floor) and a vast area dedicated to several cultural initiatives (on the ground floor).
Of the existing collections, stands out for its valuable contribution to the history of the Portuguese Discoveries, the set of four copies of the Pastrana tapestries whose design is attributed to the painter Nuno Gonçalves (15th century), which narrates some of the northern conquests of Africa, namely Asilah and Tangier.
Pastrana tapestries
The originals were sent to Tournai, in the 15th century by the Portuguese king D. Afonso V – The (unique) copies were acquired by the Portuguese State in 1957 and executed in Spain by the Real Fábrica de Tapices de Madrid.
We also find the core of Flemish tapestries, namely those that were executed according to Peter Paul Rubens, whose themes are episodes of the life of a Roman Consul – These tapestries are notable for draperies and shadow games.
Publius Decius Mus consults with the Haruspices, Peter Paul Reubens, c. 1618-1643 – Photo: Wikimedia
The collection of Portuguese furniture from the post-Discoveries period is also part of the museum’s collection, and it is worth mentioning the collection of chests, from Indo-Portuguese, to Mudéjar-style Hispano-Arab, to beautiful Spanish containers.
Collection of chests – viajardemochilaascostas.blogspot.com
To adorn the furniture the palace has a large collection of porcelains from the Company of the Indies, and Portuguese products of the main factories of the time: Prado, Viana, Rocha Soares and Rato.
Porcelains
In one of the rooms are exposed some of the weapons that were gathered by the second Viscount of Pindela, and later acquired by the Portuguese state, whose collection comprises several examples of arms, ammunition and armor elements from the fifteenth to the nineteenth centuries.
Weapons Room
The building has been classified as a National Monument since 1910.
Visiting the Palace of the Dukes of Bragança:
Go through the arch and buy your ticket and then enter the ground floor of the cloister of the Palace…
Go through the arch to buy your ticket, enter the Palace ground floor – Photo: viajeuniversal.com
The ground floor has exhibitions you can visit before exiting the Palace.
Exhibition – Google Street View
Make sure you see the permanent exhibition of the work of José de Guimarães located here.
Work of José de Guimarães – Photo: viajaredescobrir.blogspot.com
In the southwest corner of the cloister, enter in the doorway marked “Museu/Museum” and climb one set of stairs to explore the rooms on the first floor counterclockwise.
First Floor – Plan
Quarto D. Catarina (Quarters of D. Catherine of Bragança)
Sala de S. Miguel (Room of St. Michael)
Salão Nobre (Noble Hall)
Antecãmara (Antechamber)
Quarto (Duke’s Quarters)
Sala de Cipião (Scipio’s Room)
Capela (Chapel) | Sala do Jantar Íntima (Intimate Dining Room) Sala dos Contadores (Room of Cabinets) Salão de Banquetes (Banquet Hall)
Sala de Passagem (Passage Room)
Sala de Armas (Room of Arms)
Salão dos Passos Pardidos (Hall of Lost Steps) |
First Floor of the Palace
Quarters of D. Catherine of Bragança:
In the 15th century this chamber was, most probably, a bedchamber – This conclusion is drawn from its resemblance to the Duke of Bragança’s bedchamber – Being a smaller chamber, it was easier for it to be warmed in the colder days.
Bed of D. Catherine of Bragança
Despite the fact that she never lived in this Ducal Palace, this chamber pays homage to Catherine of Bragança, daughter of King João IV, Princess of Portugal and Queen of England
Portrait of Catherine of Bragança
Catherine of Bragança,
Queen Consort of England, Scotland and Ireland
Reigned April 23, 1662 – February 6, 1685
At the time of her marriage to Charles II of England (1662), she supposedly took not only the social habit of drinking tea into England, but also added porcelain to the English customs; the fork at the table of the Court; the taste for Italian opera; the creation of the famous English marmalade; as well as the popularization of fans and tobacco.
The paintings and pieces of furniture in this room are from the 17th and 18th centuries.
Room of St. Michael:
This chamber is located in one of the turrets of the Palace and, in terms of size and organization; it was very similar to the private quarters of the Duke in the 15th century – The door that leads to the Noble Hall faces another that leads to the Duke’s antechamber so, even though the usage of this chamber is unknown, it must have had a noble function.
Room of St. Michael
This room owes its name to a 16th century Portuguese limestone sculpture of Saint Michael the Archangel – In this sculpture, Saint Michael is represented as a warrior, with a shield on his left arm, dressed in Roman armor and a cape over his shoulders; at his feet, a dragon represents the fallen Lucifer.
Sculpture of St. Michael the Archangel (old picture)
St. Michael the Archangel (in Noble Hall – new picture)
Besides the 15th or 16th century cabinets called bargueños, one may find another curious piece: a chestnut wooden frame for a mirror from the 18th century – It is a Portuguese work; carved, painted in gold leaf and topped by a pediment of acanthus leaves.
Portuguese Mirror
This chamber also holds Flemish Tapestries from the Publius Decius Mus collection, produced by the Master Weaver Jan Raes II and the Painter Peter Paul Rubens.
Flemish Tapestries from the Publius Decius Mus collection – Google Street View
Noble Hall:
In the 15th century, when the Palace was first inhabited by Afonso, 1st Duke of Bragança, and by his wife, Constança of Noronha, this was probably the most important chamber in the building – the Noble Hall – and it also allowed access to the more private areas, reserved only for the Duke and his immediate entourage.
Noble Hall – Google Street View
In these buildings, contrary to what is now common, there were no corridors in the houses, and the chambers, as they were then called, were arranged one after the other; thus, they would walk from public chambers to the more private ones.
It is important to notice that, as is common in other Palaces from that epoch, that the Noble Hall of the Palace is followed by three chambers of significantly smaller dimensions, suggesting that one of these areas could have been the sleeping chamber of the Duke of Bragança.
This room is followed by three smaller chambers – Google Street View
Fireplace
In this Noble Hall, look to the roof, which is shaped like an inverted boat – During the 20th century reconstruction, the roof was built in chestnut and oak and it is thought to be very close in design to the original roof.
Noble Hall Roof
In one of the walls, high up, it is possible to notice three small openings, fitted with closed wooden shutters – It is thought that they were used as observation points or peepholes, so that the 15th century visitor in the Noble Hall may be observed!
Observation points in the wall – Noble Hall
The decoration of the Hall is dominated by a tapestry of the Pastrana series, in which The Taking of Tangier is displayed.
Taking of Tangiers Tapestry – Google Street View
The excellent selection of furniture, paintings, tapestries and porcelains in this hall allows the visitor to catch a glimpse of the way in which wealthy Portuguese people used to decorate their homes during the 17th and 18th centuries.
Noble Hall – Google Street View
Antechamber:
When entering this antechamber, one is accessing the private quarters reserved for the Duke of Bragança – This chamber follows the Noble Hall where Afonso received those who sought him.
Antechamber – Google Street View
His private quarters were divided in a total of six chambers, three in each floor – The connection between the floors was made by means of a spiral staircase – only for the Duke – and a regular staircase for the servants – These staircases still exist today but aren’t open to the public.
Antechamber – another view – Google Street View
Antechambers preceded bedchambers, and this one has a particularity for it originally had a small iron door, which let out the heat from the fireplace to the chamber next door – Iron, in contrast to stone, warms up faster, which helped to transfer the heat from one room to another, making it more comfortable – During the night, a servant could keep the fireplace burning without bothering the Duke.
Antechamber – fireplace – Google Street View
One should also mind the painted ceiling with vegetal motifs, hunting scenes and the Bragança and Noronha coat of arms – It was painted during the restoration works for it was common to find decorated ceilings in chambers like this.
Antechamber ceiling
Regarding the collection, there are two Flemish tapestries that belong to the set that narrates the life of the Roman Consul Publius Decius Mus, a textile object composed of several fragments of the colored strips taken from various ecclesiastical vestments, furniture, sculpture and ceramics.
Antechamber – tapestries – Photo: global-geography.org
Other Antechamber items
Duke’s Quarters:
This bedchamber is one of the six chambers, divided into two floors; that constituted the private quarters of the Duke.
Duke’s bedchamber
In front of the entrance one may see a door with an ogive that leads to a spiral staircase – This passage allowed a private access to the 2nd floor chambers – The other door that can be seen leads to an even smaller chamber that might have been used as a wardrobe.
Scipio’s Room:
This chamber, along with the bedchamber and the antechamber, were private quarters for the Duke on the 1st floor – This specific area may be accessed by three doors: one that leads to the ground floor, another that connects to the Noble Hall and a third leading to the antechamber.
Doors in Scipio’s Room – Google Street View
The name was given to the chamber in 1959, when the Ducal Palace added to its collection a beautiful collection of tapestries with the History of Scipio, which were woven in Brussels, in the second quarter of the 17th century, in the workshop of the weaver Andries van den Dries.
Scipio’s Room – Tapestries
Composed of four Tapestries, the different scenes illustrate the Second Punic War, in the 3rd century B.C.
Return to the cloister, and continue counterclockwise to the…
Chapel:
The visitor should first of all pay attention to the entrance to the Chapel where there is a set of columns made of marble – It is said, although with no documentary proof, that they belonged originally to the Salah ben Salah Palace in Ceuta and were brought to the palace in 1415, by Afonso, the 1st Duke of Bragança, who had participated in the conquest of the African city.
Entrance to the Chapel
Over the door there is a copy of what is supposed to be the Coat of Arms of the Dukes of Bragança, which was recreated in the 1950’s by the sculptor Teixeira Lopes.
Coat of Arms, Dukes of Bragança
When the restoration of the Palace of Dukes was begun in the 1930’s, the walls, the window, the door and the staircase were still intact and in place in the chapel – However, the big window no longer had the original stained glass nor the other contents of the chapel – Therefore, it was decided that it should be rebuilt and furnished accordingly to what a typical chapel from the 15th century should look like.
Chapel
The architect Mário Barbosa Ferreira was commissioned to design the carpentry works that presently decorate the Chapel – the altar and the altar, the balconies, the chairs, the balustrade of the choir and pews – were all designed and produced in 1959 in chestnut wood.
Woodwork in the chapel
In the stained-glass window, created by António Lino, there are represented, on the left-hand side in the first big window: Afonso, 1st Duke of Bragança, Afonso Henriques I, 1st king of Portugal and Constança de Noronha, 1st Duchess of Bragança – Also appearing on the upper part are Saint Anthony, Jesus Christ and St. Francis of Assisi.
Left-hand stained glass window – Flickr – William Wood
On the second big window (right-hand side), the following are represented: Philippa of Lancaster, King D. João I and Nuno Álvares Pereira; and in upper part, Saint George, Santa Maria (Saint Mary) of Guimarães and James, son of Zebedee.
Right-hand window – Flickr – William Wood
On the sidewalls, two representative copies of 19th century Italian paintings on canvas may be seen: one by Raphael (Transfiguration, 1518-1520) and the other by Domenico Zampiere (Last Communion of St. Jerome, 1614).
Transfiguration, Raphael, c. 1518-1520
Last Communion of St. Jerome, Domenico Zampiere, c. 1614
Follow the cloister counterclockwise to reach the…
Passage Room:
This chamber is so called for it connects the Hall of Lost Steps and the Banquet Hall.
Passage Room – Google Street View
Just off this room is the…
Room of Arms:
In 1942, arms pieces were eventually integrated into the Collection of the Museum of Alberto Sampaio and, in 1959 they were moved to the Ducal Palace of the Bragança – This collection, consisting mainly of swords and daggers, firearms and pieces of armor, “was one of the most important private collections of armaments ever gathered in Northern Portugal, in the nineteenth-century and early twentieth century”.
Arms Room
The next room is the…
Hall of Lost Steps:
This is the waiting room of this palace – The name is allusive to the long waiting time of those who wanted to be received by the Duke – On the walls, are some paintings of which is highlighted the one of the Boy Jesus embracing the Cross.
Hall of Lost Steps
Boy Jesus Embracing the Cross (Menino Jesus abraçando a Cruz),
c. 18th century – Photo: Paço dos Duques
The brick floor has three Persian rugs.
Hall of Lost Steps Persian rugs – Google Street View
The Hall of Lost Steps is dominated by two more tapestries of the Pastrana series, made on motifs probably painted by Nuno Gonçalves, a Portuguese painter of the fifteenth century, alluding to the campaigns of King D. Afonso V in Africa – The first represents The Disembarkation of the Portuguese troops in Asilah and the second The Siege that led to the conquest of that region in 1471.
Tapestries – Pastrana series
Return to the Passage Room, then continue to the…
Banquet Hall:
After the re-construction work of the Palace was completed, the commissioner whose aim was to furnish the building, decided to decorate this Hall as if it had been a Banquet Hall – This went in line with the fact that the building was also designated as one of the official residences of the Portuguese President so, on several occasions, important receptions took place here.
Banquet Hall
When the visitor arrives in the Banquet Hall, their attention is immediately captured by the distinguished size of the room; first of all due to the roof, whose shape is similar to an upturned boat, then by the enormous set of tables.
Banquet Hall ceiling
It is important to highlight the Pastrana tapestry that displays the Assault on Asilah – The Pastrana Tapestries are known as so for they are unique copies of the ones from the last quarter of the 15th century which are in display at the Pastrana Collegiate (in Spain).
Pastrana tapestry
The doorway on the right goes to the…
Intimate Dining Room:
In this chamber, a space dedicated to taking private, family meals, has been recreated, but from a time other than when the Ducal Palace was built.
Looking around this room, one’s attention is captured by the table and the chairs that are in the center of the room and by the furniture – the cabinet and trunks – on top of which we can find porcelains, tin ware and enameled items.
Intimate dining room – Google Street View
On the walls, there may be seen three paintings and one of the five tapestries, from the Publius Decius Mus collection, which the Palace has in its possession.
Tapestry
Return to the Banquet Hall, take the other door to the left to the…
Room of Cabinets:
The walls of this room are decorated with two seventeenth-century Brussels tapestries depicting hunting scenes. The furniture is made up of elements from the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, of which five cabinets stand out – The cabinets in this room are pieces of furniture with very specific characteristics, which are associated with safes and writing desks.
Room of Cabinets
Exit the Palace of the Dukes of Bragança after viewing the ground floor exhibits – turn straight to the right and take the path to the left past the Palace up to the…
Igreja de São Miguel do Castelo (Church of Saint Michael of the Castle) – Open Daily 10 am – 6 pm (last entry 5:30 pm); Free.
Church entrance
A construction of the early twelfth century, probably by the Count D. Henrique, it was built of Romanesque style, of small dimensions and with great architectural simplicity.
Side View – Photo: pacodosduques.gov.pt
It has a great symbolism for its historical connection to the period of the foundation of nationality and the tradition that Portugal’s 1st King, D. Afonso Henriques, who was allegedly baptized here (scholars dispute this, saying this church was more likely constructed during the reign of Afonso II of Portugal or between March 26, 1211 and March 25, 1223).
Baptismal font with inscription indicating D. Afonso Henriques was baptized here – Wikimedia – GFreihalter
In its interior the pavement is paved with graves that are attributed to noble warriors linked to the foundation of the nationality.
Interior
Look for the grave markings on the floor – crosses and a skeleton…
Marks on the wall
Altar
Latin inscription by front door
The ornate arcosolium on the northern facade of the Church – Photo: Wikipedia
As time went by, the higher part of the town – where the church is located – was progressively abandoned along with this old church – In the 19th century, Francisco Martins Sarmento, an illustrious Vimaranense, led the restoration of the church, seeking to respect the original design – The last intervention dates back to the 20th century – The church is classified as a National Monument.
Go around the left side of the church and continue uphill on the path towards the…
Path left of St. Michael’s – Google Street View
Castle of Guimarães (Castelo de Guimarães) – Open daily 10 am – 6 pm (last entry 5:30 pm); €2; Free admission on Sundays and public holidays until 2 pm.
Entrance to the Castle of Guimarães (Castelo de Guimarães)
In the tenth century the Countess Mumadona Dias, after having become a widow, ordered a monastery to be built in her estate of Vimaranes – now Guimarães.
Estate of Vimaranes – now Guimarães – from: Wikipedia
In the 12th century, with the formation of the Portucalense County, the Count D. Henrique and D. Teresa came to Guimarães to do great works at the castle in order to enlarge it and make it stronger.
Castle tower
Tradition tells us that it would have been inside the castle that the Count and Countess had settled and probably Portugal’s First King, D. Afonso Henriques, was born there.
Between the 13th and 15th centuries several kings would contribute works of improvement and restoration of the Castle – But, as centuries passed by, new military tactics led the castle to lose its defensive function and to become progressively abandoned and degraded.
In the 20th century, the castle was restored and afterwards classified as a National Monument.
Aerial View of the Castle – Photo: agnieszkafabio
Connected to heroic feats of the period of the foundation of nationality such as the Battle of S. Mamede in 1128, is the reason why the castle is known as the Castle of the Foundation or of S. Mamede, as it served throughout its history as the stage of several real conflicts.
Exploring the Castle
Views from the Castle
Résvés – We were getting hungry, so we returned downhill to the restaurant Résvés for a lovely meal and dessert. Open Monday – Thursday, 12:30 pm – 3 pm and 7:30 pm – 10 pm; Friday – Saturday, 12:30 pm – 3 pm and 7:30 pm – 11 pm; Sunday, 12:30 pm – 3 pm; Rua de Santa Maria 39, 4800-443 Guimarães; +351 253 067 491.
Résvés Restaurant
From here, we made our way to…
Largo dos Laranjais (Square of Oranges) – This small square is indeed populated with orange trees, in a beautiful setting.
Largo dos Laranjais (Square of Oranges)
The inscription at this square indicates that this area used to be the entrance of the Porta de Santa Luzia (Gate of St. Lucia).
Reference to the Porta Santa Luzia
Tower at the Largo dos Laranjais
This is the end of our Guimarães Self-Guided Walk, Part 3.
Guimarães Self-Guided Walk, Part 4:
Continue south from Largo dos Laranjais on Rua João Lopes de Faria until you reach the…
Largo Dr. João da Mota Prego – Notice the building on the left with the prominent coat-of-arms on the doorways…
Arquivo Municipal Alfredo Pimenta – Open 9 am – 12:30 pm; 2 pm – 5:30 pm; Free. This building hosts temporary exhibitions – see their website for current exhibitions – https://www.amap.pt/.
Entrance to Arquivo Municipal Alfredo Pimenta – Google Street View
Arquivo Municipal Alfredo Pimenta – Exhibitions – amap.pt
Follow this square around to the right to see a fountain (the Fonte de Largo Dr. João da Mota Prego)…
Fonte de Largo Dr. João da Mota Prego
Take the narrow street at the southwest corner of the square (Rua de Valdonas) until you see on your left the…
Histórico by Papaboa – This square, the location of the Papaboa Restaurante, has an interesting serpent fountain, an old train/converted buggy, and some azulejos on a wall…
Histórico by Papaboa – Photo: TripAdvisor
From here, go a few more steps south to the…
Largo do Misercórdia (Square of Mercy) – This square features a number of sites, including a couple of statues (the Monument to João Franco on the immediate left and the Escultura de D. Afonso Henriques located in front of the Santa Casa Misericórdia de Guimarães), three fountains (the Fonte do Largo João Franco in the foreground, the Fonte de D. João on the left, then the Fonte do Largo da Misericórdia at the end of the square), a Step or Station of the Via Sacra (Holy Way), the Courthouse of the Court of Appeals (Tribunal da Relação de Guimarães), the Santa Casa Misericórdia de Guimarães (Holy House of Mercy of Guimarães), and the Igreja da Misericórdia (Church of Mercy).
Largo do Misercórdia – Flickr – Yuri Rapoport
The first statue on the left in the square is the…
Monument to João Franco (Monumento a João Franco) – João Franco was a Portuguese politician (he was elected for this first time in 1884, for the constituency of Guimarães), a Minister for Treasury Affairs (January 14, 1890) and a Prime Minister, in the last years of the Portuguese monarchy (May 19, 1906 – February 4, 1908).
Monument to João Franco (Monumento a João Franco)
João Franco Ferreira Pinto Castelo-Branco,
b. February 14, 1855, d. April 4, 1929 – from: Wikipedia
The statue was conceived in 1933 by the architect Marques de Oliveria and the bust executed in 1934 by Teixeira Lopes.
Just south of this statue is the fifth of the remaining five Steps or Stations of the Via Sacra (Holy Way) in Guimarães, called the…
Passo do Largo da Misericórdia (Steps of the Square of Mercy) – Also known as Passo do Largo João Franco em Guimarães.
Passo do Largo da Misericórdia
Next to the Step or Station of the Via Sacra (Holy Way) is another more ancient fountain, from 1820, the…
Fonte de D. João – Interesting Neoclassical monumental ensemble with Neo-Palladian reminiscences, 19th century. In older mentions it is also mentioned as the “Paredão das Taipas”.
Fonte de D. João – Google Street View
The inscription on the fountain reads:
Inscription on Fonte de D. João
Ioão Primeiro Rei do Reino Unido
Menistro aqvi fes por a Estevão Ivsto,
o qval com esta Fonte Magestoza
Ornov a Patria do Primeiro Avgvsto
Anno de 1820
Translated to English:
John the First King of the United Kingdom
Minister here for the Just State,
which with this Magical Fountain
Ornamented the Fatherland of the First Augustus
Year of 1820
The “First Augustus” is undoubtedly D. Afonso Henriques, the 1st King of Portugal, and the “King of the United Kingdom”, is D. João VI, whose name has been linked to the history of Guimarães since 1808, at a time in which Portugal was under the domain of the French invaders, with Junot the king and lord in Lisbon.
In March 1816, after the death of his Mother, Queen D. Maria I, the prince regent was proclaimed king as D. João VI, of the United Kingdom of Portugal, Brazil and Algarves, the new denomination of the kingdom that had been adopted from December 16, 1815, when Brazil was elevated to the new condition of a kingdom.
D. João VI,
King of Portugal and the Algarves – March 20, 1816 – March 10, 1826
King of Brazil, March 20, 1816 – October 12, 1822
Emperor of Brazil, November 15, 1825 – March 10, 1826
Less than two months after the acclamation, D. João signed a royal charter amending the national coat-of-arms, adjusting them to the new official denomination of their domains, with the introduction of the armillary sphere of D. Manuel I, who, since time immemorial, had been used as a symbol of colonial Brazil.
National coat-of-arms on the fountain with armillary sphere
The national coat-of-arms were based on a blue-lined gold-armillary sphere, with the royal crown superimposed (abandoned after the independence of Brazil, the United Kingdom would have an ephemeral duration).
On August 24 of that same year of 1820, as engraved in the inscription of this fountain, a Liberal Revolution broke out in Porto that would force the return to Portugal of King D. João VI, and the ephemeral King D. João I of the United Kingdom of Portugal, Brazil and the Algarves, was thus extinguished.
However, in 1905, the source that was giving water to the Terreiro da Misericórdia was amputated, with the disassembly of the tank – Since then, the water from its spouts has spilled into two small stone goblets.
Fonte do Largo da Misericórdia – At the southern end of the Largo da Misericórdia there is this fountain…
On the southwest side of this fountain is the…
Escultura de D. Afonso Henriques (Sculpture of D. Afonso Henriques) – A contemporary sculpture of the 1st King of Portugal, D. Afonso Henriques, it was created by João Cutileiro, and inaugurated in June 2001 in Guimarães amid much controversy, as some of the locals considered that the work did not resemble the 1st King of Portugal.
Escultura de D. Afonso Henriques
The statue is composed of a stylized and non-figurative bust of a human being with a sword and a shield and was requested in commemoration of the Battle of São Mamede of June 24, which locals consider to be the “Day One of Portugal”.
Just west of this sculpture, on the pavement, is a reference to the gate to the city that used to be located here, the Porta da Vila.
Referemce to Porta da Vila gate that used to be here
To the east is the…
Igreja da Misericórdia (Church of Mercy) – The beginning of the construction of the church dates back to 1588, and the church was only inaugurated in 1606 – The following year, works for the reconstruction of the façade began, which ended only in 1640.
Igreja da Misericórdia (Church of Mercy)
With a longitudinal plan and a Mannerist façade, it has two medallions on the front exterior, framed by two Corinthian columns and, at the top, a niche glazed with the sculpture of Our Lady of Mercy.
In the interior, of a single nave and a rectangular main chapel, covered in crib vault covered with stucco, stands out the main altarpiece, dating from the end of the 18th century, the pulpits of 1781 and the box of the Iberian organ.
Nave
Iberian organ
Open Monday – Friday, 9 am – 11:30 am; 2 pm – 6 pm; Saturday, Sunday, 9 am – 11:30 am; Free.
Two buildings east of the Igreja da Misericórdia (Church of Mercy) on Rua Rainha Dona Maria II is the…
House of Lobo Machado (Casa dos Lobo Machado) – This house is located on one of the noblest streets of the city, once called “Crab Street” (Rua Sapateira) and was built in the second half of the 18th century – This house currently is occupied by the Commercial and Industrial Association of Guimarães and contains a collection of the Archaeological Center of Guimarães, with about 30 pieces composed of ceramic and metal.
Casa dos Lobo Machado
A few more buildings east of this house on Rua Rainha Dona Maria II is the…
Capela de São Crespim (Chapel of St. Crispim) – The exterior of this church is easy to miss as you walk along Rua Rainha Dona Maria II
Capela de São Crespim (Chapel of St. Crispim)
The interior of this church was recently reopened in June, 2018 after being closed for several years for remodeling – The Chapel has limited hours, and is only open on Friday and Saturday mornings.
Church interior – Photo: Guimarães Digital
At the next corner of Rua Rainha Dona Maria II is the…
Torre dos Almadas (Tower of the Almadas) – The “Tower of the Almadas”, is so designated because the house would have belonged to the family of Almadas, possibly, from the sixteenth century. When the opening of streets and widening of spaces was accomplished in order to allow a greater salubrity of the city, around the 1930s, among the demolitions that were carried out, was that of the house of Almadas that would have been demolished partially, forming, thus the three-story granite tower that would have been exposed.
Torre dos Almadas (Tower of the Almadas)
From the Torre dos Almadas, it is a short 13 minute walk back to the Guimaraes train station… (or take a UberX for €2-3 to the train station)
This concludes our tour of Guimarães. We now took a train back to Porto.