April 16, 2019:
Today we’re going to explore parts of Évora we didn’t see yesterday, using Rick Steves’ Self-Guided Walking Tour of Évora as a guide. In the afternoon, we’re going to drive to the nearby town of Évoramonte, for another Self-Guided Walking Tour. We are going to spend the night in Vila Viçosa.
Rick Steves’ Self-Guided Walking Tour of Évora
Rick Steves’ Self-Guided Walking Tour of Évora takes about 20 minutes, not counting visiting the sites – the key sights are all within a five-minute walk of the main square of Évora, Praça do Giraldo.
We started, like yesterday, at the main square…
Évora’s Main Square, Praça do Giraldo (Giraldo Square)
This square was the market during the Moorish period, and to this day, it remains a center for commerce and conviviality for country folk who come to Évora for their weekly shopping.
Praça do Giraldo – Photo: Paolo Querci
Until recently, the square hosted a traditional cattle-and-produce market – While ranchers and farmers no longer gather in the square to make deals, old-timers will gravitate here out of habit.
Notice the C.M. Évora board (opposite the TI, near the start of Rua Cinco de Outubro) where people gather to see community death notices – You’ll see the initials “C.M.E.” – stands for Cámara Municipal (municipality) de Évora – all over town, from lampposts to manhole covers
C.M. Évora board – Fernando Carvalho
The square is named for Gerald the Fearless, the Christian knight who led a surprise attack and retook Évora from the Moors in 1165.
Statue of Gerald the Fearless with the head of a Moor,
Village of Valverde near Évora – Photo: Der Gött Gött
As thanks, Gerald was made governor of the town of Évora, and he’s become the symbol of the city (Évora’s coat-of-arms is a knight on a horse, usually walking over two beheaded Moors; see it crowning the lampposts)
Évora’s coat-of-arms – Pinterest – A-B-P Ministries
On this square, all that’s left of several centuries of Moorish rule is their artistry, evidenced by the wrought-iron balconies of the balconies that ring the square.
Wrought-iron balconies around the square – Photo: Agoda
You’ll also spot the occasional, distinctive Mudéjar “keyhole” window throughout the town.
King João III lived in Évora off and on for 30 years – The TI is inside the old palace where the king’s guests used to stay, but others weren’t treated as royally – A fervent proponent of the Inquisition, João III was king when its first victims were burned as heretics on this very square in 1543.
An auto-da-fé (burning at the stake) of the Portuguese Inquisition,
in the Terreiro do Paço in front of Ribeira Palace in Lisbon
Speaking of the Inquisition, until the 16th century, the area behind the TI was the Jewish quarter – At that time, it was believed that the Bible prohibited Christians from charging interest for loans – Jews did the moneylending instead, and the streets in the Jewish quarter still bear names related to finance, such as Rua da Moeda (Money Street) and Rua dos Mercadores (Merchant’s Street).
Rua da Moeda (Money Street), Jewish quarter – TripAdvisor
The characteristic arcades you see all around the square suit the weather, providing shelter in the winter and shade in the summer.
Praça de Giraldo arcades – Wikipedia – tm
The Roman Triumphal Arch that once stood on this square was demolished in the 16th century to make way for the looming and recently refurbished…
Igreja de Santa Antão (Church of Saint Anthony) – This church was built by Cardinal D. Henrique, Archbishop of Évora, in the place where the medieval Hermitage of Saint Anthony (Ermida de Santo Antoninho) was erected.
The main facade of the church is structured in three sections, with rectangular windows and divided by pilasters – In the corners, one can see two quadrangular towers in granite, that frame the façade of the church.
The crowning of the main elevation of the Church, with domes and pediments, was realized already in 18th century – Three portals, in the center of each of the sections, give access to the church – The axial portal, inserted in a false perfect arc, has a tombstone in honor of Cardinal D. Henrique.
Cardinal D. Henrique (Cardinal and King),
reigned August 4, 1578 – January 31, 1580
- Above the main portal, is a Roman inscription (freely translated):
Roman inscription above the main portal – acribeiro.blogs.sapo.pt
“TEMPLE CONSECRATED TO SAINT ANTHONY
S. Ex. Rev. Cardinal Henrique, the first Archbishop of Évora,
son of King Manuel I, King of Portugal, erected this temple,
more capable and more dignified,
as to form and structure,
than the primitive, (which was) demolished”
The Church of St. Anthony is open daily, 9 am – 11:45 am; 3 pm – 5 pm – Daily Mass 12 pm – €0.50 to take photos (Old Ladies watch to make sure you don’t take photos illicitly).
Nave – Photo: Pelago.go
The church displays a considerable set of altars of gold carving, standing out also the rare marble front of the main altar representing the Apostolate, work of the 14th century – The altarpiece includes two paintings by the royal painter Bento Coelho da Silveira: “The Last Supper” and “Slaughter of the Innocents“.
Altar – Photo: BestTravelReview.com
In front of the church is the…
Fonte Henriquina (Chafariz da Praça do Giraldo) – A 16th century marble fountain – once an important water source for the town (fed by the end of the aqueduct we’ll see soon) and now a popular hangout for young and old.
Fonte Henriquina (Chafariz da Praça do Giraldo)
Radiating out from this town hub, in every direction, are traditionally decorated cobbled streets – Évora has strictly preserved the old center, and works hard to be people-friendly and inviting.
We left the main square on Rua Cinco de Outubro (across from the TI).
Rua Cinco de Outubro
At the first corner, we turned left at Alcárcova de Cima. Immediately we ran into the Mr. Pickwick Restaurant, which we peeked into, before continuing on Alcárcova de Cima around the restaurant to the right.
Mr. PIckwick’s Restaurant
A few steps further on Alcárcova de Cima, we saw a portion of a 3rd Century Roman wall built into the buildings on our right.
3rd Century Roman Wall
Unlike the 3rd century Roman wall, the bulk of the wall that currently encircles Évora is from the 14th century, with a more modern stretch from Portugal’s 17th century fight for independence from Spain.
We continued on Alcárcova de Cima until we found, on our left, the…
End of the Aqueduct – This blunt granite-columned end of the town’s aqueduct (Caixa de Água da Rua Nova – Case of New Street Water) is a relic from the 16th century – The Portuguese have such a fondness for their aqueduct reservoirs that they give them a special name – Mãe d’Agua (Mother of Water).
Caixa de Água da Rua Nova (Case of New Street Water)
Notice the abnormally high sidewalk just beyond the columns – it’s the aqueduct channel (on the outskirts of town, the channel sets higher, supported by stone pillars that kept the water flowing downhill).
From the Caixa de Água da Rua Nova, we walked uphill (to the right) on Rua Nova until we reached a large, irregular plaza called Largo de Alexandre Herculano.
Google Maps – Largo de Alexandre Herculano
The church imposing over the square is the…
Igreja de São Tiago (Church of Saint James) – An extinct parish headquarters and royal collegiate, this church already existed in 1302, but underwent deep architectural reforms in the 16th and 17th centuries, subsisting some earlier elements (primitive presbytery and crowning of Manueline beveled battlements).
Igreja de São Tiago (Church of Saint James)
Open Daily 8 am – 8 pm.
On the other side of the church, its exterior features a façade of thick whitewashed masonry with a simple portal flanked by two towers equipped with a pediment illuminated by the equestrian figure of Santiago (St. James) attacking the Moors.
Main Portal of the Igreja de São Tiago (Church of St. James) – cascalenses.blogs.sapo.pt
This church has an interesting interior – made up of a large nave with murals and canvases, tiled silhouettes on the side of the nave, representing biblical characters, attributed to Gabriel del Barco, and a gilded carving altarpiece in the 18th century chapel – the main chapel tiles are attributed to Oliveira Bernardes.
Interior – St. James Church – Photo: bussola-pt.com/
There were very interesting windows around the square…
Interesting windows around the square
There is also an interesting gate opposite the church.
Gate facing the church
Exit the square at the southeast corner (notice the Manueline door on your right as you exit).
Google Maps – Exit Largo de Alexandre Herculano
Manueline Door
At # 5, just as the small street starts, go through the large green doors on the right to the…
Casa do Rua dos Burgos (or the long name: Casa Nobre e Ruínas da Rua de Burgos – Noble House and Ruins of Burgos Street) – This 17th century house with a Roman foundation contains a small museum, with temporary exhibits on the main floor and a section of the Roman wall below.
Roman Wall below – Photo: Evora Museum Network
Open Monday – Friday, 9 am – 12:30 pm; 2 pm – 5:30 pm; Closed Saturday, Sunday, Holidays – Free.
The house is also home to a regional cultural organization (Direção Regional de Cultura do Alentejo), and staff at the entrance will point the way inside.
Walk through the courtyard to view a small collection of Roman artifacts and a large section of the original town Roman wall (including the other side of the section you saw earlier in this walk).
Roman Wall – Photo: TripAdvisor
We exited the building to our left, returned to the Igreja de São Tiago (Church of Saint James) and continued (with the church on our right) straight one block down Rua de S. Tiago. You’ll reach a square that was once congested with parked cars and is now a good example of how the town has become very pedestrian-friendly… Here, in the Praça de Sertório, on our right, is the…
Municipality of Évora (Town Hall) – Any up-and-coming project for Évora is displayed inside here, including aerial views and scale models that visualize what the future city will look like (Open Monday – Friday, 8 am – 5:30 pm, Closed Saturday, Sunday – Free; Wi-Fi inside and on the square).
Inside the Town Hall, we viewed the wonderful staircase and interior.
In the corner of the Town Hall, on the right, is a view of Roman Bath that was uncovered during a building repair – Step through the glass door to the right of this overlook for a peek at the ongoing excavation of the…
Évora Roman Baths:
These Roman baths were probably built between the 2nd and 3rd centuries – They were discovered at the end of 1987, when archaeological excavations were being made in the oldest part of Évora Town Hall building, in Largo do Sertório.
These were the public Thermae of the city back then – They were also possibly the largest public building in Roman Évora – When we talk of Roman baths it is important to understand that these were an essential part in the life of this people – In addition to the hygiene purpose, the baths were places where citizens could talk, hang out and even negotiate.
The cities where Romans lived were made up of several services to guarantee the hygiene, cleanliness and comfort of the people – That is why there was always a concern for water supply – Hence the building of aqueducts.
The Évora Roman Baths in the town hall building have an area of about 3230 sq. ft. and, like many other Roman Baths, they are composed by three distinct areas: Laconicum, Praefurnium and Natatio.
Évora Roman Baths
We exited the town hall to the right… on our right is the…
Igreja do Salvador do Mundo (Church of the Savior of the World) or Igregja do antigo Convento do Salvador (Church and Convent of the Savior) – This is a former convent and church built right into a Roman tower (once part of the Roman wall you saw earlier).
Igreja do Salvador do Mundo (Church of the Savior of the World) or
Igregja do antigo Convento do Salvador (Church and Convent of the Savior)
The Church and Convent of the Savior were founded in this place in the beginning of the 17th century, in a part of the Palace of the Counts of Sortelha.
Open Tuesday – Friday, 9:30 am – 12:30 pm; 2 pm – 4 pm; Saturday, 11 am – 1 pm; 3 pm – 5 pm; Closed Sunday, Monday; Free Admission.
The grilled windows at the top of the tower enabled the cloistered sisters to enjoy looking at the busy town without being seen.
Across the street from the Church of the Savior is an interesting government building, the Serviço de Finanças de Évora, with Moorish influences.
Serviço de Finanças de Évora government building
We made a right turn from the front of the church and walked on Rua de Olivença under the arcades past the post office (signed CTT).
Google Maps – Rua de Olivença
We took the first left, onto Rua de Dona Isabel – and stopped at the…
Arco Romano de Dona Isabel (Roman Arch of Dona Isabel) – The Arch, the Porta de Dona Isabel (Gate of Dona Isabel), was once a main gate in the Roman Wall – Below are some of the original Roman pavement stones, large and irregular in size and placement.
Arco Romano de Dona Isabel (Roman Arch of Dona Isabel)
When we passed under this Arch, we were entering a neighborhood called Mouraria (after the Moors) – After Gerald the Fearless retook Évora, the Moors were still allowed to live in the area, but on the other side of this gate, beyond the city walls – They were safe here for centuries… until the Inquisition expelled them about 1500.
Gerald the Fearless tile
Now we started Part 2 of Rick Steves’ Self-Guided Walking Tour of Évora…
We passed under the Old Arch, turned right, and walk along the road until we reached a tower called the Torre das Cinco Quinas (Tower of Five Corners) for its five sides. Here we turned right just before the tower…
Google Maps – Turn right just before the Tower of Five Corners
and then, we walked a block up Rua Augusto Filipe Simões to the Largo do Conde de Vila Flor and the…
Templo Romano Évora (Roman Temple of Évora) – With 14 Corinthian columns, this temple was part of the Roman forum and the main square of the 1st century A.D.
Roman Temple
While previously known as the Temple of Diana, it was more likely dedicated to the emperor.
Directly facing the Roman Temple is the…
Jardim Diana (Garden Diana) – Small and very modest, of a very rich simplicity at the same time, the Garden Diana offers to those who pass here good moments of pleasure, especially if you visit during the spring or during the summer.
The garden has a good viewpoint (Miradouro do Jardim Diana) with a fountain and a statue that represents the state of romance and falling in love – Overlooking the city of Évora, the breeze that runs here on warm nights is the coolest in town.
The statue in the middle of the garden is a bust of Doctor Francisco Barahona, with an admiring maiden holding Évora’s symbol – Gerald the Fearless holding two Moors’ heads…
Statue dedicated to Francisco Eduardo de Barahona Fragoso
a renowned Portuguese writer born in Évora
The Kiss by Syoho Kitagawa
Viewpoint (Miradouro do Jardim Diana)
Alongside the east side of the Garden Diana (alongside the Rua Augusto Filipe Simões we just walked up), is the…
Palácio Cadaval (Cadaval Palace):
Palácio Cadaval (Cadaval Palace) – photo: Palácio Duques de Cadaval
At the far southeast end of this Palace (across from the Roman Temple), is located the private Chapel/Church of the powerful local Cadaval clan…
Igreja de São João Evangelista – Igreja dos Lóios (Church of St. John the Baptist – Church of the Lóios) – The Cadavals are still a big-time family – which is why they charge a stiff entry price to see their lavish mausoleum Chapel/Church, a beautiful and serene church, with an impressive gold altarpiece, as well as their Palace.
Open Tuesday – Sunday, 10 am – 6 pm; Closed Monday – €7 – www.palaciocadaval.com.
You’ll walk upon Cadaval tombstones during your visit; taped chants and liturgical music add to the ambience.
The Nave
The Pulpit
The noble box (middle of the church, high above the pews) is a reminder that the aristocratic family didn’t worship with commoners below – The grilled windows allowed the Cadaval family to worship without been seen.
The tilework around the altar is from the 17th century – mere decoration, with traditional yellow patterns.
The Altar
Along the nave, the tiles are from 1711, made by António Oliveira Bernades, with seven panels depicting scenes from the life of S. Lourenço, patriarch of the Order of Santo Eloi – The popularity of these tiles (inspired by the blue-and-white Delft tiles of the Netherlands) coincided with the flourishing of tapestries in France and Belgium that had the same teaching purpose.
Tiles from 1711
As you enter the church, look for the two small trapdoors in the floor that flank the aisle, midway up the church.
The one on the right opens up to a deep, dark well (the palace and its church are all that remains of a Moorish castle – this was its cistern).
Deep well
The one on the left reveals an ossuary stacked with bones, supposedly belonging to former monks.
Ossuary
Three are also several tombs along the floor.
Tombs on the floor
To the left of the altar is a small side chapel.
Small side chapel
The room to the right of the altar contains religious art, including a cleverly painted Crucifixion and rare Muslim tilework.
Room to the right of the altar
Side Chapel
We next visited (southwest of the Roman Temple) the…
Casas Pintadas (The Painted Houses) – Centro de Arte e Cultura – The “Painted Houses” are named after a unique set of Renaissance frescoes that adorn a gallery in a former palace’s garden.
The palace was the Palace of the Inquisition, which sentenced all non-Christians to death if they did not convert to Christianity in the 16th century. It was expanded in the 17th century and remodelled in 2013 to become a large space for temporary exhibitions. Called “Centro de Arte e Cultura” (“Art and Culture Center”), it primarily focuses on contemporary art (painting, photography, sculpture and installations), shown on two floors.
Centro de Arte e Cultura (Palace of the Inquisition) – Flickr: jaime.silva
You don’t have to see any of the Centro de Arte e Cultura exhibitions to visit the garden with the frescoes. You may also choose a guided tour, which provides more details about the art and the history behind it, but for that you need a minimum of five people.
The small garden of orange and lemon trees is now owned by the Eugénio de Almeida Foundation, which manages the building that now hosts art exhibitions and cultural events.
The frescoes are in an garden exterior that has survived in Portugal since the early 1500s, and illustrate animals and imaginary creatures. They were made accessible to visitors for the first time after a renovation of the garden in 2011.
Casas Pintadas (The Painted Houses)
A block away to the southeast is the…
Catedral de Évora (Cathedral of Évora) – Known locally as Sé de Évora, its real name is Basílica Sé de Nossa Senhora da Assunção (Basilica Cathedral of Our Lady of Assumption). It is the largest medieval cathedral in Portugal and has no match in the rest of the country.
Catedral de Évora (Cathedral of Évora) – Photo: Skyscraper City
As happened throughout Iberia, this Cathedral was built upon a mosque after the Reconquista succeeded here – That mosque was itself built upon a Christian Visigothic chapel.
Cost and Hours – There’s a dizzying variety of tickets, combing the cathedral interior, the cloisters, the Museum of Sacred Art (called “treasury” / tesouro), and the Terrace (called both “terrace” / terraço and “tower” / torre); a ticket for everything is €4.50 (€3.50 over 65) – Open Daily 9 am – 5 pm; Closed for lunch – October – June 12:30 pm – 2 pm; last entry to the Museum of Sacred Art one hour before closing.
On each side of the façade of Evora Cathedral there are two towers from the Medieval period. The south side one is the bell tower, which is in charge of telling time throughout the city.
On the sides of the main portal of the church we find spectacular sculptures of the Apostles, from the 14th century, made by Master Pêro.
Statues of the Apostles on the main portal
The magnificence of the Cathedral of Evora can also be seen on the three great naves in the interior.
Central Nave
Main Altar
In the central nave on the left about midway there is a golden altar of Our Lady of the Angel (also called in the city Senhora do Ó), in baroque carving, with a 15th century painted marble statue of a pregnant Mary.
Our Lady of the Angel altar
Across the aisle in the central nave, a more realistic Renaissance Angel Gabriel, added a century later, comes to tell Mary that her baby won’t be just any child.
Angel Gabriel
By the entrance, on the left nave, the baptistery opens, closed by a beautiful iron gate from the Renaissance.
Baptistery
In the 14th century cloisters you will see statues of the Evangelists in each corner.
Evangelists on each corner of the cloisters
The cloisters of Evora Cathedral are a fine Gothic testimony.
Gothic Cloisters
The cloister includes the funeral chapel of its founder, Bishop King Pedro. Recently, the tombs of the Archbishops of Evora who died in the 20th century were put in the cloister too.
Funeral chapel of its founder, Bishop King Pedro
The Cathedral terrace, the highest point in the city, has a very beautiful panoramic view.
Cathedral Terrace
Evora Cathedral includes a Museu de Arte Sacra (Religious Art Museum) with a rich collection in the areas of ecclesiastic garments, painting, sculpture and jewellery. Among the several pieces stored here are a 13th century Virgin (Our Lady of Paradise), the reliquary cross of the Santo Lenho (14th century), the crosier of Cardinal King Henrique and the Archbishops gallery. This museum is in the old Colégio dos Moços do Coro da Sé, on an adjoining building to the cathedral.
Religious Art in the Museu de Arte Sacra
We now took the home stretch back to Praça do Giraldo…
Rua Cinco de Outubro (or Rua 5 de Outubro) – This shopping street, which has served the same purpose since Roman times, connects Évora’s main sights with its main square, Praça do Giraldo – Its name celebrates October 5, 1910, when Portugal shook off royal rule and became a republic.
Rua Cinco de Outubro (or Rua 5 de Outubro)
Lunch in our apartment before our next trip
For our afternoon trips we first drove north from Évora to Évoramonte (about 30 minutes), then continued on to Vila Viçosa (about 20 minutes), where we spent the night.
Évoramonte:
The Walled Town and Castle of Évoramonte
A medieval wall surrounds the town and castle of Évoramonte and parts of the walls can be walked. This medieval wall of Évoramonte was built in 1306, with the purpose of protecting its inhabitants, during the reign of D. Denis (reigned 1279-1325).
D. Denis of Portugal
The walled perimeter forms an isosceles triangle whose major side follows the Northeast-South line.
Walled Town and Castle of Évoramonte – Photo: A Terceira Dimensão
Castelo de Évoramonte (Castle of Évoramonte) – Photo: Trihos and Milhas
Évoramonte from the plains – Photo: Hotels.com
Évoramonte still maintains its four main gates:
1) The Ash Gate (Porta do Freixo), with a Gothic arch without imposes and protects by two cylindrical turrets, is oriented to the South and has an inscription that corresponds to the beginning of the construction of the medieval wall.
Ash Gate (Porta do Freixo) – Photo: turismoenportugal.blogspot.com/
2) The Gate of the Sun (Porta do Sol), very similar to the previous one, is oriented to the North.
Northern Gate – Gate of the Sun (Porta do Sol)
3) The Gate of St. Blaise (Porta de São Brás) gate is oriented towards the hermitage [in Évora] with the same name and still keeps its munhoneiras (fittings for the axis of a cannon, also designated by trunnions).
Gate of St. Blaise (Porta de São Brás) – Photo: All About Portugal
4) The Gate of St. Sebastian (Porta do São Sebastião) has direct access by road to the hermitage of the same oracle, being that it denotes fourteenth or sixteenth-century influences.
Gate of St. Sebastian (Porta do São Sebastião) – Photo: Iberian Escapes
The castle of Évoramonte protects the walled town – in 1940 this town had over 1,800 people, today about 500.
The Gate of the Sun (Northern Gate) and the Castle – Photo: José Barreiro
Northern gate (Gate of the Sun) of the walled town of Évoramonte – Photo: Visit Evora
South gate (Ash Gate)
Wall of Évoramonte – Photo: Trihose and Milhas
An engraving from 1684,
depicting the walled town of Évoramonte,
with the Tower/Ducal Palace/Castle in the center
View of the town and castle from below
Getting There – It is not easy to park in Évoramonte. So we parked and walked from outside the walls at the…
Hermitage of St. Sebastian (Ermida de São Sebastião):
The small hermitage of São Sebastião, next to the road that connects to the castle of Évoramonte, evidences a coequal construction for almost all the hermits outside the parish.
Hermitage of St. Sebastian
It has a square main chapel and hemispherical dome, this being also the oldest element of the property.
Square Chapel and Hemispherical Dome
The hermitage is located near the St. Sebastian’s Gate (Porta do São Sebastião) of the castle, with an important renovation in 1779.
View of the climb to St. Sebastian’s Gate from the Hermitage of St. Sebastian
From here we could walk up on the path to the walled town and castle of Évoramonte, and explore it on foot…
Walking through the St. Sebastian Gate
Our first stop after entering the St. Sebastian Gate was the Castle.
The Castle from inside the Sebastian Gate
Castle of Évoramonte (Castelo de Évoramonte):
Some sort of fortress has been here at Évoramonte since the Romans – The tale of the current Gothic and Renaissance building begins in 1306 under King Denis. A new foral was issued in 1516, by King Manuel I.
Castle of Évoramonte (Castelo de Évoramonte)
The reconstruction campaign during Manuel I’s reign, beginning in 1516, resulted in the fortification with four cylindrical towers defining the rectangular perimeter by Francisco de Arruda (completed in 1531). In any case, the Manueline aesthetic concepts are still present, although probably this building was built in the reign of D. João III (1521-1557), a period usually known as Late-Manueline.
Manueline knots on the Castle – Photo: All About Portugal
Knot detail – Photo: bbcamping.eu
Open – Summer (June – August): Daily from 10 am – 1 pm; 2:30 pm – 6 pm | Winter (September – May): Daily, 10 am – 1 pm; 2:30 pm – 5 pm (Closes second weekend of each month, Municipal Holiday [Ascension Thursday] and the following holidays: January 1st, Good Friday, Easter Sunday, May 1, December 25).
Despite the graceful appearance, the building’s purpose was purely defensive, and was never intended as a residence – The interiors are still bare, but warrant a look for their columns and vaults.
Rooms of the Castle
Steles in the Castle
Model of Évoramonte
Windows
Doors
The view from the terrace on top of castle is spectacular.
View of the town and surrounding area from the Terrace of the Castle
Walking Tour of Évoramonte:
We exited the castle and started walking downhill towards the town on the main street, Rua da Convenção. On our left, opposite the castle, we first saw a Moorish door and window.
Moorish door and window
Rua da Convenção
Our first stop was on the left…
Sign on Rua da Convenção pointing the way
Artesanato – Celeiro Comum de Évoramonte – This is the shop for your souvenirs from Évoramonte. It is called Celeiro Comum in Portuguese, which means “Common Barn” in English, and dates back to 1642, when it was founded by charter from King João IV after the population requested it in order to have cereals stocks – Nowadays, it houses an extremely good taste artisans shop.
R. da Convenção 11, Open Monday-Saturday, 10 am – 7 pm; closed Sunday, +351 966 759 534.
“Common Barn” in English
The shop sells items that symbolize Portugal, as well as many more traditional to the region and the original ones from this house’s artisan, Inocência Lopes, who has been building this artisan shop here in Évoramonte for several years, and is a Évoramonte native.
Inocência Lopes and the Artensanto shop
Interior of the Artesanto shop – Photo: Viaje-Comigo
We asked Inocência about the famous “painted houses” or “Casas da Sensa” that she painted and sold, and were immediately pointed to look down at the street in front of the shop…
Famous “painted houses” (“Casas da Sensa”) on the street in front of the shop
Apparently Inocência started by painting stones she found in the fields. Then she started painting the stones in the street (there are reportedly over 60 stones painted on the cobbles).
Each stone she sells is selected for the specific attributes that will contribute toward the real reflection of Portuguese rural living – each carefully designed, and then hand-painted – There are no two alike.
Inocência Lopes with her “Casas da Sensa” – Photo: lifestyle.sapo.pt
We went inside the shop and looked around and purchased a few “painted houses” for ourselves.
“Casas da Sensa” on our refrigerator at our home in Denver, Colorado
UNESCO Heritage Figures of Estremoz
Inocência’s shop is one of the handful of registered workshops that produce the UNESCO Heritage Figures of Estremoz (registered starting in 2022).
Inocência producing UNESCO Heritage Figures of Estremoz – Photo: Viaje-Comigo
The evolution of these figures is a trip back to the days when elaborate nativity scenes were made to share the story of Christ. Like a diorama, they can include local characters, shepherds, farmers, and rural people. These figures emerged to be their own thing, and took on their own story. They were shopkeepers, townspeople, street-sellers, and then elaborate symbols, such as “love is blind”.
UNESCO Heritage Figures of Estremoz – Photo: ich.unesco.org
It takes a full week to make a figure, from the craft of the clay, to the firing, to painting, and drying. They are priced quite affordable, and are unique to this region. These clay wonders are the product of a weeklong production process: first the bits of the clay figures are assembled and then fired in a kiln. They are then painted by hand and covered with a clear varnish. These figures are in the local costumes of Alentejo that date back to the seventeenth century. It is a craft that is attached to the central Alentejo region, since the vast majority of the figures depict natural elements, local trades and events, popular traditions and legends.
Facebook – Celeiro Comum
Inocência Lopes with UNESCO figures – Photo: Pinterest
We were hungry, so we back tracked uphill on Rua da Convenção and took a left to reach…
Café sign for The Place on Rua da Convenção
The Place at Évora Monte:
The Place at Évora Monte
The new owners of this inn, Vicki and Mitch Weber, knew they wanted to live in Portugal and almost ended up living in a castle, but opened up this Alentejo guesthouse instead – To transform the old building on the main street of the village into the local accommodation they had always dreamed of.
Hosts Vicki and Mitch Weber – Photo: Time Out Lisboa
Vicky and Mitch had still considered opening an inn in Scotland “but it rained a lot”, then in Paris “but it was very expensive” – it took four years of works with many difficulties in the middle to open The Place.
Modern decor
Has several artifacts from the 45-country travels of the owners Vicki and Mitch
The kitchen at The Place
We ordered pizza (tourists also recommend the cheese/ham board and migas (traditional regional dish with Sagres beer or wine) and enjoyed the view on the outdoor patio.
Enjoying the views from the outdoor patio
Across Rua da Convenção from The Place is the…
Across the street from The Place is the Old Town Hall
Old Town Hall (Paços do Concelho) – This former town hall housed during our visit the local Tourist Information Office (Turismo) and a complex known as A Silveirinha (Art Gallery [Galeria de Arte], a Gourmet Shop [Loja Gourmet], and the Old Town Hall Clock Tower [Torre do Religio]. According to Google, A Silveirinha is now permanently closed.
Old Town Hall (Paços do Concelho)
Old Town Hall coat of arms – Flicker – Finwe Palantir
Pillory of Évoramonte (Pelourinho de Évoramonte) – Sited in front of the Old Town Hall (on Rua da Convençao – see below), this stump, which used to be a full-fledged Pillory, all of what remains of this monument stands only the parallelepiped marble plinth with simple wedges – Looking at the base where the column was laid, we find that it has obvious traces of breakage.
Broken Pillory – Photo: Trip.com
We now continued our self-guided walking tour of Évoramonte. We made our way downhill from The Place to the Rua da Misericórdia, that winds around inside the west walls of Évoramonte. Our first stop (close to St. Sebastian gate) was the…
Church of Mercy (Igreja da Misericórdia) – A 16th-century building, the Church of Mercy looks rather architecturally simple, with only a small portico resting on simple classic marble columns – Also simple, but of granite, it is the main door, surmounted by an oval window
Church of Mercy (Igreja da Misericórdia)
The interior, on the other hand, which has had in the past limited public access for research/interpretation (contact info: the Holy House of Mercy of Évoramonte/Santa Casa da Misericórdia de Évoramonte, at (+351) 268 959 338 or geral@scmevoramonte.com); surprises by the impressive profusion of tile panels, and the nave is attributed by Túlio Espanca to Policarpo de Oliveira Bernardes, a great Lisbon master of this art in the 18th century (closed while we were there).
Church of Mercy – Photo: Time Out Lisboa
From the Church of Mercy we walked south on Rua da Misericórdia until we reached…
Walking south on Rua da Misericórdia
Gate of St. Blaise (Porta de São Brás) – Actually, what we reached was not the Gate of St. Blaise, but a postigo (shutter) to access the Gate of St. Blaise within the medieval walls.
“Postigo” or shutter to the Gate of St. Blaise (Porta de São Brás)
Water Tanks and Wells – And just after the “postigo” to the Gate of St. Blaise, there was another “postigo” to water tanks under the wells of Évoramonte.
“Postigo” to water tanks under the wells of Évoramonte
Nancy checking out the wells
Next, we viewed the…
Church of St. Mary (Igreja de Santa Maria) – This church is located just inside the south entrance to the medieval town walls. The first known reference to the Church of St. Mary of the Castle (Igreja de Santa Maria do Castelo) dates from 1271, when it was established between D. Afonso III and the Bishop of Évora an agreement regarding the possession of some Alentejo churches, which is under the tutelage of the Cathedral of Évora – It was the first church in the village and is likely to have existed before that date.
Church of St. Mary (Igreja de Santa Maria)
In 1289 the offices of benefactors of the Church of St. Mary of the Castle of Évoramonte were founded because of the devotion that D. Domingos Anes Jardo, at the time Bishop of the Diocese of Évora, had for the image of Saint Mary (Santa Maria) that was in this same church.
The earthquake of 1531 made a great part of the church collapse, knowing that, although not yet totally reconstructed, it was already reopened to worship in 1534.
In 1748, the church was renamed the Church of Our Lady of Conception (Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Conceição), a denomination that it still possesses today.
Next to the church is the…
Cemetery of the Combatants – This cemetery is dedicated to the Portuguese combatants of war buried here… The sign at the entrance reads:
Neste cemeterio estao sepultados combatentes por Portugal
Que repousem unidos na paz
Os que unidos lutarem na Guerra
“In this cemetery are buried combatants for Portugal
May they rest together in peace
Those who united to fight in the war”
Cemetery of the Combatants
We now walked to the Saint Sebastian Gate following the way we had just come, Rua da Misericórdia, and from this gate to our car. Our tour of Évoramonte is finished.
Leaving Évoramonte
We drove from Évoramonte to Vila Viçosa for the night’s lodging (20 minutes).