April 15, 2019:
After taking a day to return to Lisbon and packing up Georgia to return to the United States, we rented a car and embarked on our second tour of Portugal. Our first stop was about 1-1/2 hours east of Lisbon by car at the beautiful city of Évora, in the Alentejo region.
Évora History
Évora, capital of the Alto Alentejo (High Alentejo), is a city of an outstanding beauty, embraced by its fortress walls, filled with historic memories.
Inhabited since the Neolithic period, many were the ancient people that were here, but the Romans were the ones who transformed Évora into an imperial town – They called it Ebora Liberalitas Julia, and left several signs of their passage, from which the Roman Temple, known improperly as “Templo de Diana”, stands out.
Templo Romano Évora (Roman Temple of Evora)
In 715 A.D., the city was conquered by the Arabs but there are only a few archaeological evidences of that time.
The Moors ruled Évora from the 8th to the 12th century – Around the year 1000, Muslim nobles divided the caliphate into small city-states (like Lisbon), with Évora as this region’s capital.
In 1165, Giraldo Sem Pavor (Gerald the Fearless), on a sudden incursion, took the city from the Moors, and that event was printed on the city’s coat-of-arms.
Évora coat-of-arms
The importance of Évora is undeniable along the centuries: during the Avis Dynasty (1385-1580), the city became the chosen place of the court, which settled here frequently, to the detriment of Lisbon or Coimbra.
House of Avis coat-of-arms
A depiction of Évora in 1503,
when the city was blooming with Manueline riches
The Cardinal-King D. Henrique founded, in 1551, the College of the Holy Spirit, which became the University of Évora in 1559, when it received Rome’s approval – In 1759 is was closed by order of the Marquês de Pombal, on the Jesuits’ expulsion from Portugal, reopening again in 1973.
University of Évora – Photo: Trip.com
As a reaction to the domination of the Spanish kings over Portugal (Philip II, III, and IV of Spain), Évora became the stage of battles for the national independence – But after the throne was reclaimed for Portugal, the court turned away from the city.
The historic center of Évora, as a monumental ensemble of great historic and cultural value, was classified by UNESCO, in 1986, as a World Heritage Site.
We parked in the free north parking lot and took the Trevo Shuttle Bus (€1) to the city center (Square of Giraldo or Praça do Giraldo).
Posto de Turismo de Évora (TI) – We first stopped in the Évora Tourist Office (TI) and picked up free English maps/brochures of the “Tourist Map of Évora”, the “Unmissable Évora”, the “Évora Medieval Tour”, the Megalithic Sites, the Convent of Our Lady of Remedies, the Roman Baths, and the Schedule of Monument Hours. The TI is located at Praça do Giraldo 73, 7000-842 Évora, Open Monday – Friday, 9 am – 7 pm; Saturday – Sunday, 10 am – 2 PM, 3 pm – 7 pm.
Google Maps – Posto de Turismo de Évora
From the TI, we crossed Praça do Giraldo to its northwest end and started our first Évora self-guided walking tour.
Self-Guided Medieval Walking Tour
To start the Medieval Walking Tour, we first passed the Igreja de Santo Antão on the right side alongside the Arcades of Praça do Giraldo (1), and continued on Rua João de Deus until we reached Largo Luiz de Camões (2).
Google Maps – We passed the Igreja de Santo Antão on the right
alongside the Arcades of Praça do Giraldo
Shops on Rua João de Deus
At Largo Luiz de Camões (also known as Porta Nova), we veered to the right to inspect the Arches of the Roman Aqueduct (Arcos de Évora) from the 16th century.
Arches of the Aqueduct (Arcos de Évora)
We went under the arches and looked back and noticed how the arches have now blended into the surrounding buildings.
Arches and buildings blended together
We returned to Largo Luiz de Camões and turned right onto Rua José Elias Garcia. We continued on Rua José Elias Garcia until we reached a large square at (3) Praça Joaquim António de Aquiar.
Google Earth – Praça Joaquim António de Aquiar
Starting along the south side of the square, we went under an arch and discovered a Manueline window on the other side.
Arch and Manueline Window on the south-side of the square
At the western end of the square is the…
Municipal Theatre García de Resende – Established in 1892, this is the place of residence of the local theater group (Cendrev). See www.cendrev.com for a listing of their recent scheduled productions.
Municipal Theatre García de Resende
In the past, this building was occupied by the imposing Convento de São Domingos, demolished in the late 19th century.
We now made our way through several side streets to the…
Side streets
Largo de Severim de Faria – This area of narrow streets of the city was known by Cogulos in the Middle Ages, name that may have come from the hood worn by the Benedictine nuns of Convento São Bento de Cástris, who had houses in this area of the city.
Largo de Severim de Faria
This square was named after the choirmaster of the Cathedral of Évora, Manoel Severim de Faria, one of the most important persons concerning Portuguese culture of the 17th century. A Portuguese biographer, essayist, and scholar, he was born in Lisbon, 1583 and died at Evora, Sept. 25, 1655. He devoted many years to the study of his country’s literature, giving his researches and thought a lasting form in ‘Various Essays’ (1624), containing appreciations and biographies of Camões and other great writers. He also wrote ‘Jottings of Portugal’ (1655).
Portrait of the poet Luís Vaz de Camões by Manoel Severim de Faria
From the Largo de Severim de Faria, we continued northeast on Rua da Trindade until we reached a (4) Gothic Arch. This gothic portal, carved in granite, is a sign that this area of the city was already consolidated during the 14th and 15th centuries.
Gothic Portal on Rua da Trindade – Photo: Medieval City Walk Brochure
From here we continued on Rua Trindade to the end of the street, where it intersects with Rua do Cano (Piping Street). This street is named by the Aqueduct of Áqua da Prata (literally Silver Water) that existed before the houses were built into the 6) Monumental Stone Arches of the aqueduct.
Houses built into the monumental stone arches of the aqueduct along Rua do Cano
The Medieval Tour brochure mentions at #12 Rua do Cano there is a Manueline door with a tile above that shows a connection to the Convent of Santa Catarina de Sena (the tile above is gone, the address is now #11a)
Googe Maps – Manueline Door – #11a Rua do Cano
On Rua do Cano to the north in a few blocks the Aqueduct reaches the “New City Wall (Cerca-nova)”, from the 15th century, and continues into the countryside.
Google Maps – Aerial view of the aqueduct along Rua do Cano
We now ducked under the aqueduct and made our way to (6) Chãodas Covas Square (Largo do Chãodas Covas), one of the oldest public spaces in the city. Its name comes from the “caves in the earth with bread” from the Middle Ages, or earthen silos which stored grain used to make bread (wheat, barley, rye).
Square of Chãodas Covas (Largo do Chão das Covas) – Photo: VagaMundos
Largo do Chão das Covas fountain built into the aqueduct
The area surrounding Largo do Chão das Covas was known as ‘Judiaria Grande,’ which means ‘Great Jewry.’ It served as one of two major Jewish quarters in Medieval Évora. Here, Jews lived relatively peacefully alongside Christians until King Manuel I ordered their expulsion or forced conversion.
We headed across the square to Rua do Escudeiro da Roda and continued on this street until we reached Largo da Porta de Avis. The building on our left is the old…
Convento de São José da Esperança (Convent of Saint Joseph of Hope) – In the hands of the nuns of the Order of the Discalced Carmelites, the Convent was founded in 1681. This Convent was classified as a National Monument in the year 2008. The alternate name Convento Novo (New Convent) has to do with the fact that it was the last religious house to be built in the city.
Convento de São José da Esperança (Convent of Saint Joseph of Hope)
To our right is a fountain (7) Fonte da Porta de Aviz, from the Porta Nova Square, where it was originally built in 1573 to receive water from the aqueduct.
Fonte da Porta de Aviz
Nearby is the Nova Porta De Aviz (New Gate of Aviz), which handles vehicle and pedestrian traffic into the city.
Google Maps – Nova Porta De Aviz (New Gate of Aviz)
From the fountain, we took Rua Mestre André de Rensende as it curves to the right. This street is named in honor of the famous humanist and antiquarian from Évora, who lived here in the 16th century.
We continued through various streets until we reached the…
(8) Igreja de São Mamede (Church of St. Mamede) – This church, from the time of D. Dinis, had a Gothic foundation. Later, in the 16th century, it was remodeled. It underwent profound architectural transformations in terms of the nave and side chapels. The appearance it has today is due to this renovation.
Igreja de São Mamede (Church of St. Mamede)
The Church of São Mamede has Renaissance and Baroque religious architecture. It has a longitudinal plan with two side chapels. The main access to these chapels is through a round arch, surmounted by a curved pediment. This composition is repeated, albeit in a different form, on the main elevation of the nave.
The strong Renaissance stamp of the Church of São Mamede can be seen in the marble galilee and also in the ribbed vault of the nave, despite having been designed according to the traditional system of Gothic art.
Nave – Wikimedia – Manuelvbotelho
High Altar – Wikimedia – Manuelvbotelho
Tiles lining the nave – Wikimedia – Manuelvbotelho
Opposite the church entrance in the square, notice the fountain (Fountain of Dr. Evaristo Cutileiro) and the see-through grilled gates to the courtyard of the house beyond.
Googlel Maps – Fountain of Dr. Evaristo Cutileiro
Grilled Gate – Fountain of Dr. Evaristo Cutileiro
Behind the church is a large school, the Serviços Académicos, which used to be a monastery convent.
Serviços Académicos school
In front of this school is a bust of André de Resende, a contemporary sculpture made by João Cutileiro, of one of the most important persons of Portuguese culture during the Renaissance. André de Resende was the “Father of Archeology” in Portugal, author among other works of the Historia da antiguidade da cidade de Évora (c. 1553), also a Dominican friar (1498-1573), buried in the right transept of the Cathedral of Évora).
Bust of André de Resende by João Cutileiro
We continued south on Largo Dr. Evaristo Cutileiro until we reached a square and a park. On our right we saw the Torre das Cinco Quinas.
Torre das Cinco Quinas
Straight ahead, through the park, we came to the…
(9) Porta do Moinho de Vento (Windmill Gate):
Porta do Moinho de Vento (Windmill Gate)
Located just down the hill from the Roman Temple, the Porta do Moinho de Vento (Windmill Gate) is the entrance to the Jardim dos Colegiais (Garden of the College). This is one of the 11 gates of the city that used to be open in the medieval wall and that is in better condition. There are wooden benches located just outside if you want to rest your feet awhile. The Jardim dos Colegiais is small, but quite pleasant. Any windmill which once stood near this gate has long disappeared.
We continued along the Roman wall, seeing on our left the outside of the Chapel/Church of Lóios, built in the 15th century; the Pousada Convento Évora, and also the structure of the (10) Old Fortified Castle of the city, former residence of the military masters of Évora (the Castros family, Counts of Basto). The latter structure is now part of the Eugénio de Almeida Foundation complex.
Google Maps – Old Fortified Castle of Évora
We continued along the Largo dos Colegiais until we reached Rua do Cardeal Rei and a square with a green fountain. On the left is the…
(11) Igreja do Espírito Santo (Church of the Holy Spirit) – This imposing Jesuit Church, was built in the late 16th century to support the adjacent Jesuit College of the Holy Spirit dating from 1559.
Igreja do Espírito Santo (Church of the Holy Spirit)
The Jesuits developed an important educational center in the said college, playing an important role in the evangelization of the Alentejo – However, since the early collegiate chapel was located in the Cloister (now the Hall of the Acts of the University of Évora) and therefore access was restricted, the Cardinal – Infante D. Henrique decided, while Archbishop of Évora, to build a new church for the College of the Jesuits, where the whole population could hear the famous preachers.
The interior, of a rectangular shape, is well lit by tall galleries (where students from the University, created in 1579, participated in the solemn ceremonies).
Interior – Photo: Church of the Holy Spirit
After the expulsion of the Jesuits from Pombal in 1759 , which led to the closure of the University of Évora, the church was handed over to the friars of the Third Regular Order of San Francisco until 1834 (when were expulsed the remaining religious orders from Portugal).
The church was later taken over by the Casa Pia de Évora (then set up at the old University), until the middle of the 20th century , when it came into possession of the Major Seminary of the Archdiocese of Évora.
We continued walking down the hill. On our left entered the…
Universidade de Évora (University of Évora): While far less monumental or interesting than Coimbra’s, Évora’s historic university building is worth exploring – especially when populated during the school year.
Open Monday – Saturday, 9:30 am – 6 pm; Closed Sunday, Largo dos Colegiais 2, www.uevora.pt.
The University’s main entrance is the old courtyards on the ground level (downhill from the original Jesuit chapel (Igreja de Espirito Santo) with access from Rua do Cardeal Rei – facing the grassy quad-like square).
Google Maps – University of Évora
Main Entrance – Universidade de Évora (University of Évora)
We entered through the main gate, viewed the outer courtyard and then entered the inner courtyard.
Outer Courtyard
Inner Courtyard
Attractive blue-and-white tiles (one of the biggest and best-preserved collections south of Lisbon) ring the walls of the inner courtyard as well as in the classrooms lining the courtyard arcades.
Tiles – walls of inner courtyard
We now explored the classrooms. School was not in session, but most doors were unlocked. The tiles in each classroom usually portray the subject taught there.
Exploring the classrooms
Notice the now-ignored pulpits (Originally, Jesuit priests were the teachers, and the information coming from a pulpit was not to be questioned).
The Pulpits
We now entered the Ceremonial Room directly across the courtyard from the entrance (under the frieze).
Entrance to Ceremonial Room
Major University events are held here under the watchful eyes of Cardinal Henrique (the painting on the left) and young King Sebastião on the right.
Cardinal Henrique
King Sebastião
Ceremonial Room
Ceiling and Walls of the Ceremonial Room
Sala 114 (Room 114), to the right of this room, gives you a great look at more tiles – In the 16th century, this was a classroom for students of geometry and astronomy – note the spheres and navigational instruments mingled with cupids and pastoral scenes.
The Geometry and Astronomy Room
Next, we found the Biblioteca (Library), with its collection of books, and colorful ceiling.
Biblioteca (Library)
Detail of the ceiling
To find the University’s cafeteria, we followed the passage to the right of Sala # 114, which connects to a smaller courtyard – The cafeteria (marked bar), is in the far-right corner – In the alcove just outside, notice the big marble washbasin.
The big washbasin
The cafeteria thrives with students and offers anyone super-cheap meals (Monday – Friday, 8:30 am – 6 pm; Closed, Saturday, Sunday, WC).
Lastly, there was a small chapel.
Small Chapel
From the entrance to the University of Évora along Rua do Cardeal Rei go straight ahead on Rua do Salvador Velho until you reach Rua de Mendo Estevens. Turn left here, then see on your right…
(12) Nossa Senhora da Cabeça (Our Lady of the Head) – This popular Chapel was built on the side of the road, on a granite outcrop – The Chapel of Our Lady of the Head was consecrated in 1681, over a medieval chapel. You can see on the exterior also the tiles panel dating from 1736, with the representation of the Coronation of the Virgin adorning the Chapel façade.
Nossa Senhora da Cabeça (Our Lady of the Head)
Inside there are fresco paintings (later Mannerists), more tile panels, and in the main chapel, the 18th century gilded altarpiece.
Now we went west on Rua de Mendo Estevens, then left on Travessa da Pomba, then right on Rua da Olivera, then left on Travessa do Pao Bolorento.
Towards the end of this street, on the right side, we appreciated the (13) Old window “Built-in-the-Arch”.
Old Window “Built-in-the-Arch” – Medieval Walking Tour Brochure
After viewing this old window and arch, we went right on Rua Dr. Henrique da Fonseca, then immediately left on Travessa do Cego, then right on Rua D. Augusto Eduardo Nunes.
At #18 Rua D. Augusto Eduardo Nunes, we noticed the Residência Portas de Moura, formerly the Jesuit College of Madre de Deus.
Google Maps – Former Jesuit College, now Residência Portas de Moura
Then we turned left on Travessa dos Arcos, named because there are (14) Vestiges of the Arches of the Aqueduct. These Arches of the Aqueduct used to supply the fountain (now missing) that used to exist in Largo dos Castelos.
Google Maps – Vestiges of the Arches of the Aqueduct
We continued on Travessa dos Arcos until we reached the end of the street – turned left on Rua dos Castelos, and continued until we reached Largo dos Castelos.
Google Maps – Edifício do RMS – Quartel Central in Largo dos Castelos
At the square, dominated by the Old Manueline Castle, now a military structure (Edifício do RMS – Quartel Central), we continued on our right to Rua do Cicioso, with a wonderful view of the (15) Igreja da São Francisco (Church of St. Francis).
Google Maps – View of the Church of St. Francis
Now we retraced our steps to the Residência Portas de Moura, formerly the Jesuit College of Madre de Deus, and continued north on Rua D. Augusto Eduardo Nunes until we reached on our left…
Convento e Igreja Nossa Senhora do Carmo (Convent and Church of Our Lady of Carmel)
Google Maps – Convento e Igreja Nossa Senhora do Carmo (Convent and Church of Our Lady of Carmel)
History of the Convent and Church of Our Lady of Carmel
The Convent of Our Lady of Carmel in the city of Évora was originally erected at another location in Évora, at the Porta da Lagoa, in 1531, by the Cacled Carmelite Friars of the Religious Order of Carmel. Friar Baltazar Limpo, Vicar General and Reformer of the Order of Carmel in Portugal, decided to build this Convent at the Porta da Lagoa after being given the Hermitage of São Tomé.
In 1663, the Convent of Our Lady of Carmel was destroyed by fire during the War of the Restoration, at the siege of Évora by the Castilians – Escaping only with the image of Nossa Senhora do Carmo (Our Lady of Carmel), the devout followers of the Saint took refuge where they are given shelter – in private homes and houses scattered throughout Évora.
Two years after the destruction of the Convent of Our Lady of Carmel, in 1665, the then King D. João VI ended up donating the Palace of the House of Bragança, in the Largo da Porta de Moura, to the Calced Carmelites, since the famous Portal dos Nós (Gate of the Knots) is preserved in all its glory.
In 1670, this Carmelite order began the construction of the new Convent and Church of Our Lady of Carmel in this place, giving themselves the consecration of the Church in 1691.
When we go down the stairs from the street level to the Church of Nossa Senhora do Carmo, it is impossible not to notice the intricate work of the granite gate along the street, which features the arms of the Order of Mount Carmel.
Google Maps – Granite gate of the Convent and Church of Carmel
The fabulous staircase gives access to the regional granite courtyard and the extraordinary Portal dos Nós (Gate of the Knots).
Courtyard – Photo: VisitEvora.net
Portal dos Nós (Gate of the Knots) – Photo: VisitEvora.net
This splendid door is made of granite trunks intertwined by knots based on Solomonic columns. Created by the architect Diogo de Arruda in 1525, legend has it that this beautiful symbol of the House of Bragança took on additional historical significance by representing the cut with the “knot” that linked Portugal to the Philippine dynasty. The inscription on the ducal coat of arms of D. Jaime de Bragança, “After You, Us”, thus gains a premonitory facet of the recovery of the throne of Portugal from the Spanish.
Gate of the Knots detail
Across the street from the Convent and Church of Carmel is the…
Largo da Porta de Moura – See the Moorish influences on the double horseshoe arches of the belvedere of the Casa Cordovil (residence of Morgados de Brito in the 16th century) and a central fountain.
Casa Cordovil
Built in one of the most emblematic squares of the 16th century city, surrounded by noble manors of the most important families, the Fonte das Portas de Moura (Fountain of Portas de Moura) was solemnly inaugurated on December 4, 1556 (according to the inscription on the sphere) and is thought to have been built by Diogo de Torralva, who at the time was also the master responsible for the Aqueduct works.
Fonte das Portas de Moura (Fountain of Portas de Moura)
We continued north from the Largo da Porta de Moura to another small square.
Google Maps – Small square north of Largo da Porta de Moura
Just north of this square is the…
Casa de Garcia de Resende – Notice the Moorish/Manueline windows on this house.
Casa de Garcia de Resende
Return south to the small square – on the northwest corner of this small square is the…
Casa Soure – Another house with Moorish influences – This building, from the 16th century, stands out the perfect arched balcony over granite columns and pointed dome.
Casa Soure
We continued west on Rua da Misericórdia until we saw on our right, hidden in the trees, in the Largo da Misericórdia, the…
Igreja da Misericórdia (Church of Mercy) – This Church was founded in the mid-16th century – Its construction is of Mannerist style, portal Rococo, decorated by the real arms of Portugal (1775).
Google Maps – Igreja da Misericórdia (Church of Mercy)
Coat of arms of Portugal over the main door
Open Monday – Friday, 9 am – 12:30 pm; 2 pm – 5:30 pm; Saturday, 9 am – 1 pm; Closed, Sunday, Holidays – Free.
The nave, with rectangular plan, has sumptuary and ornamental filling of Baroque style and the walls are lined with tiles of A. Oliveira Bernardes and superimposed by panels of painting of Jose Xavier de Castro.
The Nave
It has an imposing altarpiece in the main chapel, with a polychrome carving and a Solomonic colonnade, in Baroque style.
Altarpiece
Though small, the church was beautiful.
Nancy resting from our long walk
The tiles and paintings on the walls are very colorful.
Colorful tiles and paintings
From the Church of Mercy we went downhill to Rua Miguel Bombarda – Then we continued west to…
Downhill from the Church of Mercy to Rua Miguel Bombarda
Largo de São Vicente (Saint Vincent Square) – Two (16) Manueline windows in this square were once part of the old house of the mayorat of Esporão.
Two Manueline windows in the square
The square uses the old churchyard of the church, whose origins date back to the Middle Ages (at that time, there was a small chapel over the Roman wall). The present church from the 16th century, probably built with the direct intervention of André de Resende (Humanist from Évora), is now used as a municipal gallery for
temporary exhibitions.
St. Vincent Church and Church courtyard
We backtracked on Rua Miquel Bombarda, then turned right and went downhill on Travessa da Caraça to reach the…
Travessa da Caraça
Igreja da Graça (Church of Grace) and Convento Nossa Senhora da Graça (Convent of Our Lady of Grace) – The Church of Grace and Convent of Our Lady of Grace, was the first monument of Renaissance architecture in the city of Évora – It is located on the Largo da Graça and was designed by the architect Miguel Arruda and Nicolau de Chanterene.
Open daily, 9:30 am – 5:30 pm.
Igreja da Graça (Church of Grace)
A unique monument, of Palladian influence, it highlights a robust character in its Mannerist façade, including a monumental doorway topped by a double fronton with angels above it. Four robust Atlas-style figures are placed around the four corners, symbolising the four rivers (which the locals call, with a certain degree of irony, ” the children of grace “).
“The children of grace”
Cross and angels – Photo: cascalenses.blogs.sapo.pt
It was considered a National Monument in 1910 and, like other monuments, certainly contributed to the classification of Évora by UNESCO as a World Heritage site.
The works of the Convent of Our Lady of Grace began in the year 1524 – However, it is known that in 1511 already existed in this place a convent belonging to the Eremitas Calçados de Santo Agostinho (Calced (w/ shoes) Hermits of St. Augustine). This new building would later give shelter to that community of friars – Its patrons were D. João III and Bishop D. Afonso de Portugal, his cousin.
Convento Nossa Senhora da Graça (Convent of Our Lady of Grace)
The interior of the church has a longitudinal and irregular plant and inside it there is a single nave, of four sections – The marble windows of Estremoz, crafted by the Renaissance sculptor, Nicolau de Chanterenne, stand out in the main altar area.
The Nave
Now we walked west on Largo da Graça, turned left on Rua da República, then right on Praça 1º de Maio until we reached…
Igreja de São Francisco (Church of St. Francis) and Capela dos Ossos (Chapel of Bones):
This Church of St. Francis and its Chapel of Bones are worth the stroll to the southern edge of town – The main attraction is the macabre Chapel of Bones, with the skulls and bones of 5,000 corpses (mostly ordinary people) exhumed from the city’s five cemeteries and tightly and carefully fixed to the walls of the chapel in the early 17th century. This was the solution found by three 17th-century Franciscan monks for the overflowing graveyards of churches and monasteries in Évora.
Church of St. Francis
Cost and Hours: Open daily, June – September, 9 am – 6:30 pm; October – May, 9 am – 12:50 pm; 2:30 pm – 5 pm – Church – Free; Chapel of Bones – €3 (we only visited the Chapel of Bones and surrounding rooms, not the Church of St. Francis).
Visiting the Chapel of Bones – Before visiting the Chapel of Bones, we visited the room next door, where there is a cathedral altar prototype that was never used.
Cathedral Altar Prototype
This room also had tiles representing the “Way of the Cross”.
Tiles decorated with scenes from the Way of the Cross
Now we entered the Chapel of Bones. The inscription over the entrance translates to: “We bones here, for yours await”. As sinister as this inscription reads, it was meant to inspire the 17th century Portuguese that life is only a transitory stage to heaven.
Entrance to the Chapel of Bones
It would have been easy to quickly pass through the Chapel of Bones and miss its key features:
History – Prior to being the Chapel of Bones, this room was the dormitory for the monks while the adjoining room was the chapter room (now the ticket office).
Chapel of Bones sign
This exhumation and display of bones in the early 17th century is not as morbid as it seems. The practice aligned with the common beliefs of the era and followed the Counter-Reformation ideology that the bodies would be closer to God.
Stacking of the bones – The majority of the bones are carefully stacked and held in place (some without mortar).
Carefully stacked and arranged bones and skulls
Almost anonymous – There are no records or names of the thousands of bones found in the Chapel of Bones. The only known body is that of Bishop Jacinto Carlos da Silveira found in a floor tomb.
To the right of the altar is a marble coffin, which contains the bones of the three monks who established the church and monastery in the 13th century.
Marble tomb of the three monks who founded the church and monastery in the 13th century
Frescoes on the ceiling – Many visitors see the skull and bone patterns, but miss the fresco paintings and death motifs on the ceiling. These were painted in 1810 and include death scenes from the bible, skulls and symbols of death.
The ceiling of the Chapel of Bones
One such fresco and inscription reads: “Melior est dies mortis die nativitatis”, which is a phrase from Vulgate’s Ecclesiastes, 7, 1, which translates to “Better is the day of death than the day of birth”.
“Melior est dies mortis die nativitatis” (“Better is the day of death than the day of birth”)
Aula Splendor (Splendor of the Hall) – Photo: MyPortugalHoliday.com
“Ludibria Mortis” (“Games of Death”) – Photo: Latitude 65
Transience of Life Poem – On a pillar inside the chapel hangs a poem by Father António da Ascensão Telese from the 1840s that has been translated by Friar Carlos A. Martins. The poem clarifies the purpose of the Chapel of Bones—the transience of life in the undeniable presence of death:
Where are you going in such a hurry traveler?
Stop … do not proceed;
You have no greater concern,
Than this one: that on which you focus your sight.
Recall how many have passed from this world,
Reflect on your similar end,
There is good reason to reflect
If only all did the same.
Ponder, you so influenced by fate,
Among the many concerns of the world,
So little do you reflect on death;
f by chance you glance at this place,
Stop … for the sake of your journey,
The more you pause, the further on your journey you will be.
Nativity Scenes – In an ironic shift from death to birth, included in our entrance fee is a room above the Chapel of Bones dedicated to the private collection of nativity scenes collected by Canha da Silva and his wife over 35 years. This unique collection includes nativity scenes from over 80 countries and displays 400 of their best sets from their total collection of 2,600 pieces.
Nativity Scenes Collection
Additional collection of Nativity Scenes
The Chapel of Bones also had a Galilé Terrace with beautiful views of Évora.
Santo Antão Church
Former Royal Palace
Cathedral
Views from the Galilé Terrace
We now made our way via taxi to our car in the northern car park and then took a drive in the countryside to see a megalith monument 2,000 years older than Stonehedge outside of Évora…
Cromlech of Almendres – This is the largest megalith monument in Iberia with almost 100 huge stones, many with carvings from 5,000 B.C., aligned to the spring and autumn equinox. There are two circles of stones, a circular ring to the east, and a larger oval ring to the west.
Driving to the Cromlech of Almendres
Walking to the stones
Cromlech of Almendres sign
Huge oval boulders, looking like gigantic stone eggs (some 3 meters/10 feet tall), stand on the ground, forming a mysterious circle. Most of the stones were unearthed in the 1960s, and scholars repositioned those that had tumbled.
Stone circles
Geometrically aligned in relation to the equinox, it’s believed to have been associated with astronomical observation and sacred rituals, especially during the sunrise on the summer solstice.
About a dozen monoliths still show carved drawings (snake-like shapes and circles), which have miraculously survived to this day and remain a mystery.
Circle sign on a stone
A couple of them have human-like figures that possibly represent gods or deities, and are believed to have been used for cult purposes.
They have their origin in an Iberian culture that spread north as far as Denmark, and that had a good understanding of the stars and the seasons.
After seeing the stone circles, we took a short “hike” to see an isolated standing stone, the Menir dos Almendres.
Isolated “Standing Stone”
There’s a “visitor center” nearby, in a building covered with cork from the region. Several displays provide historic information about the site, and a shop offers products from the area.
Open 7 am – 7 pm, Free.
We returned via rental car to to the Évora free north car park, viewed the aqueduct, then took our things and made our way on foot to our accommodation.
Aqueduct by the car park
LEGO Toy Shop on the way
Tired – Lots of walking today