April 17, 2019:
Having spent the morning touring Vila Viçosa, we spent the afternoon of this day exploring Estremoz (a 20-minute drive from Vila Viçosa). On April 19, 2019 we toured more of Vila Viçosa in the morning and of Estremoz in the afternoon.
Overview of Estremoz
Estremoz is a municipality in the Alentejo region of Portugal close to the border with Spain, dotted with monasteries, churches and various fortifications and a population of approximately 13,000.
Estremoz upper and lower towns – Photo: cdn.britannica.com
The region around Estremoz has been inhabited since pre-historic times – There are also vestiges of Roman, Visigoth and Muslim occupation.
Mosaic: ULYSSES. Dating: Roman Period –
Lusitanian-Roman villa of Santa Vitória do Ameixial –
Photo: dotempodaoutrasenhora.blogspot.com
During the Reconquista, Estremoz was captured in the 12th century by the army of knight Giraldo Sem Pavor (Gerald the Fearless), who had also conquered neighboring Évora.
However, Estremoz was soon retaken by the Moors and only in the mid-13th century was it reconquered by the Portuguese King Sancho II.
King Sancho II, reigned March 26, 1223 – December 4, 1247
13th century entrance – Wikivoyage – Elisa.rolle
An important strategic site between the Kingdoms of Portugal and Castile, Estremoz received a charter (fuero) in 1258 from Afonso III after the Moors were driven out a second time, which promoted Christian colonization in the area.
King Afonso III, reigned January 4, 1248 – February 16, 1279
King Denis rebuilt the castle as a royal palace, further promoting the area – His widow, Dowager Queen Isabel (Elizabeth) of Portugal, died in the Estremoz castle on July 4, 1336, shortly after mediating a peace treaty between her son Alfonso IV of Portugal and her grandson Alfonso XI of Castile.
King Denis and Queen Isabel (Elizabeth of Aragon)
Queen Isabel’s (Elizabeth’s) grandson Pedro I of Portugal died in the Franciscan monastery of Estremoz in 1367.
During the 1383–1385 Portuguese Interregnum Crisis, Nuno Álvares Pereira established his headquarters in Estremoz, then defeated the Castilian forces at the Battle of Atoleiros.
The Battle of Atoleiros between Portugal and Castille, 1384
During the Portuguese War of Restoration (1640–1668), Portuguese forces (including from Estremoz) defeated the Castilians in the nearby and decisive battles of Ameixial (1663) and Montes Claros (1665).
Battle of Ameixial, 1663
World Famous for Marble:
Together with the two other nearby marble towns, Borba and Vila Viçosa, Estremoz is internationally known for its fine to medium marble that occurs in several colors: white, cream, pink, grey or black and streaks with any combination of these colors – Especially the pink marble (Rosa Aurora and Estremoz Pink) is in high demand.
Estremoz Pink Marble – Wikimedia – Roll-Stone
This marble has been used since Antiquity as a material for sculpture and architecture – The first exports in Roman times were probably for the construction of the Circus Maximus of Emerita Augusta (Mérida), in modern-day Spain.
Central square of Estremoz with a marble pillory (pelourinho)
in Manueline style – Wikimedia – Georges Jansoone
The Portuguese navigators exported this marble to Africa, India and Brazil – The marble from this region was used in famed locations such as the Monastery of Jerónimos, the Monastery of Batalha, the Monastery of Alcobaça and the Tower of Belém.
There is so much marble around Estremoz that it is used everywhere; even the doorsteps, pavements and the cobblestones are made out of marble – This marble is even converted into whitewash for painting the houses.
Marble pavement in Estremoz – Photo: TripAdvisor
Portugal is the second largest exporter of marble in the world, surpassed only by Italy (Carrara marble) – About 85% of this marble (over 370,000 tons) is produced around Estremoz.
Nearby marble quarry – Photo: mindat.org
In the quarries marble blocks are cut from the rock with a diamond wire saw, a durable steel cable with a series of circular diamond beads – The initial conduit for the wire is made by drilling a horizontal hole and a vertical hole of which the ends meet exactly inside the rock – The wire saw may need an entire day to cut through the marble
Diamond wire marble saw – Photo: stonecontact.com
Self-Guided Walking Tour of Estremoz:
We saw a few sites in lower town, Estremoz, and then rode a taxi to upper town, Estremoz, and saw a few sites there, walking back down to lower town to do some art shopping, and then finally back to our car and the drive back to Vila Viçosa.
We parked at the large parking lot by Rossio Marquês de Pombal square. Our first stop was the…
Aguias d’Ouro Café:
Built between 1908 and 1909, this establishment was inaugurated as a Café on April 4, 1909 – Its initial owner was Francisco Rosado, of Rosado & Carreço, and the establishment also operated as a buffet and billiards room.
Aguias d’Ouro Café
Its eclectic architecture, especially visible in the decorative language of the façade, makes it one of the best examples of the heritage of the municipality of Estremoz – Its influence of the Art Nouveau (western artistic movement initiated in the end of the 1880s and that enters Portugal from 1905) is notable, namely in its exterior in the first and second floors, as proven the platibanda decorated with fleur-de-lis or the purposeful difference of the seven spans.
Also visible is the use of several different materials (stonework, stained glass, wrought iron and tiles) and the decoration with geometric, naturalistic and exotic motifs.
Several different materials used in decorating
It is a rare survivor of the early Portuguese tertullia cafes of the early twentieth century, making it an important sociological reference and a landmark of the collective memory of those who live and work here.
Going counterclockwise around the square, our second stop was the…
Convent/Church of the Congregations (Convento/Igreja dos Congregados):
The Convent of Our Lady of the Conception of the Congregations of the Oratory of St. Philip Nery of Estremoz had a royal order of D. Pedro II (1675-1766) to be built in 1697.
The exterior is known for its pink marble facade, which was not finished until the year 1961, and inside one can visit the set of tiles dedicated to the life and miracles of St. Philip Neri.
Convent/Church of the Congregations (Convento/Igreja dos Congregados) –
Wikimedia – Alvaro Azevedo Moura
Church-Convent of the Congregations azulejo tiles – Photo: Pinterest
The former convent and church now has: The town hall, the library, the tourist information office and a Museum of Sacred Art.
Hours: Monday – Friday 9 am – 5:30 pm, Closed Saturday, Sunday.
Aerial View of the Convent/Church of the Congregations – Photo: www.360cities.net
Our next stop is the…
Holy Christ Chapel (Capela do Santo Cristo):
This small property was built by the Chamber in 1574, rising a simple Calvary shrine – For the current aspect of the chapel Miguel Borralho was responsible, promoter of the construction of a nave and the integration of the same in a closed chapel, all this in 1751.
Holy Christ Chapel (Capela do Santo Cristo) – Photo: cm-estremoz.pt
According to some chronicles, it was near this place that D. Nuno Alvares Pereira heard mass before the Battle of the Atoleiros in 1384.
Going north again along the square, we see on our right the…
São João da Penitência Convent (Convent das Maltezas):
This Convent was the seat of the nuns’ cloister of the Order of Malta from the 16th century.
São João da Penitência Convent (Convent das Maltezas) – Wikimedia – Vitor Oliveira
Its cloister is the largest of all the convents of the city and shows us Manueline architecture – Each wing has ten arches, subdivided into four twin arches and two simple ones.
Cloister – Convent das Maltezas – Photo: TripAdvisor
Nowadays the convent is owned by the Misericórdia of Estremoz (Mercy of Estremoz), and functioning in the cloister’s dependencies are the Poló University Estremoz Branch of the University of Évora in the north wing.
Continue counterclockwise around the square. We you reach the northern end, turn right on Av. 25 de Abril 4 to see on your left…
Bernardim Ribeiro Theater (Teatro Bernardim Ribeiro):
Classified as a Property of Municipal Interest since 1997, the Bernardim Ribeiro Theater is one of the ex libris of the city of Estremoz and the main hall of shows of the county.
Bernardim Ribeiro Theater (Teatro Bernardim Ribeiro)
Started in 1916, after a group of notable Estremocenses (namely Dr. Marques Crespo, Dr. José Rosado da Fonseca, the Mr. Carlos Frederico Luna and Mr. José Maria Reynolds Graça Zagalo ), who became aware of the need to build a showroom with the right conditions. The inauguration took place on July 22, 1922, with the presence of the famous Portuguese company of artists, Amélia Rey Colaço and Robles Monteiro.
It was named after the Alentejan “Bernardim Ribeiro”, in honor of this sixteenth-century poet, who wrote so well about his love for his cousin Aonia, supposedly the Estremocense D. Joana Tavares Zagalo, who died at the Convent of the Poor Clares of Estremoz.
Now retrace your steps to the square and see on your right the…
Church/Convent of St. Francis (Igreja/Convento de São Francisco):
Church/Convent of St. Francis and
Monument of Homage to Combatants (Monumento de homenagem ao Combatente)
Standing in front of the Church/Convent of St. Francis is a memorial honoring the combatants of World War I, the Monument of Homage to Combatants (Monumento de homenagem ao Combatente), by the sculptor José Maria de Sá Lemos.
The origins of the conventual Church of St. Francis, which belonged to the Order of Friars Minor, date back to the 13th century, between the reigns of D. Sancho II and D. Afonso III. The Church has a Gothic base, to which Renaissance and Baroque elements were added.
In 1834, the Convent was extinguished (as were all the Religious Orders were in Portugal), beginning the separation between the church (that was guarded by the Brotherhood of San Francisco) and the conventual area (which was given to the Army).
Church Hours: Open daily, from 2 pm – 7 pm.
In front of the Church, stands the Cruzeiro de São Francisco de Estremoz (Cross of St. Francis of Estremoz), which appears to be a use of pieces from different origins, possibly assembled in the 17th century. It was classified as a Property of Public Interest in 1958.
Church of St. Francis with the Cross of St. Francis in front
The interior has a rectangular floor plan, three naves and five sections.
Nave – Photo: rachiepie.com
In the second half of the seventeenth century, begun by Bishop Jerónimo do Rosário – the high choir was built, which occupies the first section of the naves and is supported by almost flat vaults, ribbed with the symbol of the Order of Christ.
High Choir – Photo: AllAboutPortugal
In 1666, the Chapel of Our Lady of Amparo was built, with a later altarpiece (from 1720) and, at the end of the century, the altarpiece of St. Anthony (Santo António) (with an 18th century work of gilding).
Shortly thereafter, between 1700 and 1705, the present main altarpiece of gold carving was erected and, some decades later, the south abyssal was transformed into the Chapel of the Blessed Sacrament.
Side Chapels
The great baroque project was completed under the sign of the Neoclassical, around 1770, with the complete reconstruction of the new main façade.
High Altar – Photo: AllAboutPortugal
From 1652 is the chapel of Our Lady of the Rosary, where there is an impressive sculptural figuration consecrated to the Tree of Jessé altarpiece, work of the reign of D. João IV (1640 – 1656), in gold carving and including some sculptures already of the 18th Century – This Tree of Jessé was acquired by the Brotherhood of Our Lady of the Rosary in 1652 – This rare gold-toned altarpiece corresponds to one of the three beautiful examples that still exist in Portugal.
Tree of Jesse Altarpiece
Important Tombs: In this church, important figures from the History of Portugal are buried, such as Vasco Álvares Pereira, brother of D. Nuno Álvares Pereira, killed due to treason in the castle of Vila Viçosa; D. Fradique of Portugal; and António Henriques da Silveira, Judge of the Palace.
There is a belief that D. Pedro I, who, according to Fernão Lopes’ chronicle, died in Estremoz, would have died here (buried in the Monastery of Alcobaça).
The most notable tomb, classified in 1922 as a National Monument, is that of D. Vasco Esteves Gatuz (or Esteves da Gata), rich squire of Estremoz, lord of Sousel, knight of D. Afonso III and benefactor of the Convent of St. Francis, who died in 1363.
In 1922, the Chapel of D. Fradique de Portugal was also classified as a National Monument, considered the main Manueline work in Estremoz. The Church, in its entirety, was classified as a National Monument in 1924.
Chapel of D. Fradique (Capela de D. Fradique): An inscription, dated March 3, 1535, was placed over the portico of the Chapel.
Portico (Portal) of the Chapel of D. Fradique
D. Fradique was a person of importance in the peninsular politics of the reign of King D. Manuel I – son of the Counts of Faro, D. Afonso and D. Maria de Noronha, he realized his ecclesiastical career in Castile, where he was educated alongside the Catholic Monarchs.
For a time he was the executor of Queen Elizabeth (Isabel) of Aragon, Bishop of Calahorra, Segóvia, Siguenza and Saragoza – In Saragoza he ascended to the status of Archbishop, and shortly after, he was nominated by King Charles V as Viceroy of Catalonia.
Sometime during the 15th century, the Chapel of D. Fradique was probably erected, before the region was integrated into the Province of the Algarves (in 1425) – This was before the May 6, 1520 papal bull from Leo X that gave license to King Manuel I to construct a convent to the invocation of St. Francis in the village of Estremoz.
The small chapel, was opened to the third line of the southern flank of the Church and Convent of São Francisco – It is a Manueline structure of artistic quality in the city of Estremoz, constructed by and for a figure of importance to European history.
Manueline windows in the Chapel of D. Fradique
In the pavement of the chapel are tombstones marking the members of seigneurial Masters of Vimeiro, including the tombs of Fernando de Noronha (who died in 1552) and Isabel de Melo (1563).
The chapel, initially consecrated to the name of St. Francis, sheltered after the 17th century the Brotherhood of Senhor Jesus dos Passos (Our Lord of the Steps) – It was this institution that ordered the Mannerist retable that crowned the southern wall, that was damaged by natural causes, and in the 19th century, an era when they opted for imitation marble painting to substitute the original gold leaf.
Chapter Altarpiece – Chapel of D. Fradique
Detail – Chapter Altarpiece – Chapel of D. Fradique
Located in this chapel is the Tomb of Vasco Esteves de Gatuz; it is a great example of the second half of the 14th century – Made of marble from the region, it has on top a male figure lying down that represents the squire – Laterally there are several zoomorphic and anthropomorphic motifs, corresponding to the imaginary of the time – Of great interest are also the scenes of falconry represented here
The squat-shaped parallelepiped tombstone over the sarcophagus, rests on two aggressive lions, forming a lateral retable.
D. Vasco Esteves Gatuz, was a knight of D. Afonso III deceased in 1363 and lord of Sousel – In this monumental sculptural work, the nobleman is portrayed in a majestic position, ready to resurrect on Judgment Day and draw his sword to immediately fight in the name of Christianity.
Ready for resurrection
His sarcophagus is supported by an angel and by a loyal pet at his feet.
Loyal pet
On the larger side of the ark is a hunting scene, typically national iconography designed to glorify the noble character of the tomb.
Hunting scene
It is thought that the funeral monument was ordered to be made by his widow, D. Margarida Vicente, who instituted a chapel inside the convent and which was also buried there.
Exiting the Church, we now walked north along Lgo Dragões de Olivença. To our right we saw a military presence at the former Convent of Saint Francis, the…
Regimento de Cavalaria 3 (Third Calvary Regiment):
Located next to the conventual area is a museum created by the Third Calvary Regiment of the Army that offers an overview of its military actions during the 300 years of its existence in Estremoz.
Third Calvary Regiment – Photo: anibalcavacosilva.arquivo.presidencia.pt
Highlight: “Luz da Liberal e Nobre Arte de Cavalaria” – book published in 1790 about the noble art of the calvary.
Open Daily 9:30 am – 12 pm; 2:30 pm – 5 pm; Free admission; www.wix.com/regcav3/regcav3.
Continuing north on Lgo Dragões de Olivença, the road becomes R. 31 de Janeiro 2. On the left at the corner is the…
St. John of God Fountain (Fonte São João de Deus):
Originally built somewhere in the former Rossio of São Brás (now the Municipal Garden or Jardim Municipal) in 1834/36, it was moved to the left side elevation of the Royal Hospital of St. John of God (now the House of Sergeants of the Third Regiment of Cavalry) in 1901.
St. John of God Fountain (Fonte São João de Deus)
Stands out the good work of marble stonework, the classicism especially evident in the wreath of flowers of the lower panels and the coat of arms of Estremoz in the central body.
To the left you can see the insigna of the Third Regiment of Cavalry.
A portal of the former Royal Hospital on Rua São João de Deus (see the right side of the building), has an impressive crown and coat-of-arms over the door.
Royal Hospital Coat of Arms
We called a cab and were taken to upper town of Estremoz and dropped off by the…
Porta do Sol (Sun Gate):
This is the east entrance to the inner wall of the Castle of Estremoz – accessed on foot up the staircase of Rua da Calcada da Frandina.
Porta do Sol (Sun Gate)
Lower town from the Porta do Sol (Sun Gate)
Inner walls of the Castle
Going through the Porto do Sol
Looking back at the Porta do Sol
After crossing the gate, we continued uphill until we reached a large square…
Manueline window and tile over a doorway
Iconic streets
Largo Dom Dinis:
This is the main square of upper town Estremoz. Here are all the main sites of the upper town around us.
Aerial view of the Largo Dom Dinis – Photo: fortalezasdefronteira.turismodeportugal.pt
We started on the left with the…
Church of Saint Mary (Igreja de Santa Maria):
This church is one of the most interesting examples of hallenkirchen (hall churches) of a quadrangular plan, inserting itself in the typology of hall-churches built by Miguel de Arruda in the first decades of the second half of the 16th century in the south of the country.
Church of Saint Mary (Igreja de Santa Maria)
The church has been classified as a Property of Public Interest since 1967.
Open Tuesday – Sunday, 9 am – 12:30; 2 pm – 5:30 pm (it is necessary to request the key from the Municipal Museum across from the Pousada/Castelo or the D. Denis Drawing Gallery next door).
Notice cross off center on top of the church – St Mary Church – Photo: viajeuniversal.com
Small marble Cross centered at the top of the church
at the beginning of the 20th Century
On an illustrated postcard, number 1204
On the reverse, the date of the postage stamp is 1904
The present church was founded in 1560, under the patronage of Cardinal D. Henrique, replacing a primitive church dedicated to the Virgin, possibly of medieval edification, in Romanesque style, possibly linked by arches to the Keep of the Castle.
The existence of this primitive church is mentioned in a cantiga (song) of Afonso X, the Sage (1252 – 1284), King of León and Castile, in which he refers to the church and a supposed miracle that happened there by the grace of St. Mary (Santa Maria).
The interior is a unified square space, where six Ionic monumental columns have been arranged that simulate the existence of sections, from which bundles of simple ribs are drawn, which support the nine vaults that cover the space.
Nave
To the center was erected the main altar, of Mannerist taste, executed around 1620 by a local workshop – The carver is not known for the work, although some affinities can be distinguished with the work of Sebastião Vaz.
This altar houses several sections that in 1894 were, mostly, repainted; the only sections to keep their original traits are the representations of São Bento and São João Baptista.
High Altar
Side Chapels
Next to Saint Mary’s Church is the…
Paços do Concelho Medievais ou Galeria D. Dinis (Medieval City Hall or Gallery D. Dinis):
In 1982 a space was opened to the public for temporary exhibitions of the Municipal Museum Prof. Joaquim Vermelho (Museu Municipal Prof. Joaquim Vermelho), and the following year the D. Dinis Drawing Gallery (Galeria Municipal Dom Dinis) was inaugurated in the Medieval City Hall (old Paços do Concelho).
Paços do Concelho Medievais ou Galeria D. Dinis (Medieval City Hall or Gallery D. Dinis)
Galilee – Paços do Concelho Medievais
The next building on the left is the…
Chapel of Our Lord of the Lambs (Capela Nossa Senhora dos Inocentes):
Built in 1726, the Chapel of Our Lord of the Lambs would probably be dedicated to the exposed or orphans, given also the proximity of a hospice to abandoned children, now home to the Municipal Museum Prof. Joaquim Vermelhoacross the square.
Being complete in the early twentieth century, only the main chapel remains, due to the ruin of the façade.
Chapel of Our Lord of the Lambs (Capela Nossa Senhora dos Inocentes) – Photo: portugalwhiteweddings
Interior – Chapel of Our Lord of the Lambs
In front of the Chapel of Our Lord of the Lambs is the…
Statue of Queen St. Elizabeth (Estátua da Rainha Santa Isabel):
This is an unusual statue of Queen St. Elizabeth, attributed to the sculptor Martins Correia (1910 – 1999) or to António Luís Branco de Paiva (1926 – 1987).
Statue of Queen Saint Elizabeth (Estátua da Rainha Santa Isabel)
View from the Statue of Queen Saint Elizabeth
The Statue of Queen Saint Elizabeth is facing the Castle Keep (Torre de Menagem) and the Pousada da Rainha Santa Isabel, which we’ll be visiting in a couple of days.
Castle Keep (Torre de Menagem) and the Pousada da Rainha Santa Isabel
Our next stop requires to go around the Castle Keep (Torre de Menagem) to the left to see the…
Chapel of St. Elizabeth (Capela de Santa Isabel):
Tucked around the corner from the Castle of Estremoz (on its west side) through huge iron gates, the chapel of Queen St. Elizabeth (Isabel) can only be accessed by getting someone from the Municipal Museum or D. Denis Drawing Gallery across from the Pousada/Castelo to unlock the door into the impressive portal – Open Tuesday – Sunday from 9 am – 12:30 pm; 2 pm to 5:30 pm; Closed Monday.
Iron Gates for the Chapel of St. Elizabeth
Opening the door to the Chapel of St. Elizabeth
We entered and climbed up tiled-lined stairs to see the beautiful chapel.
Tiled-lined stairs to the Chapel
Chapel of St. Elizabeth (Capela de Santa Isabel)
Altar to Saint Elizabeth
Ceiling of the Chapel
Once you enter the small chapel you can’t help but be impressed by the azulejos depicting the saintly acts of the queen, the gilded woodwork, and paintings.
Azulejos and paintings of the acts of Queen Saint Elizabeth
The wonderful choir was built in white marble with a Latin inscription, from 1808, of gratitude from the population of Estremoz to St. Elizabeth (Isabel) for having protected them from the looting of the French Invasions.
The Choir with an inscription to Saint Elizabeth
This is a lovely little Chapel full of charm just as impressive as any large Cathedral.
Leaving the Chapel
Queen Santa Isabel (Elizabeth of Aragon)
Isabel (Elizabeth of Aragon), also known as Elizabeth of Portugal, was born in 1271 in the Aljafería Palace, in Zaragoza, in the Kingdom of Aragon.
She was Queen Consort of Portugal between June 26, 1282 and January 7, 1325.
She died in the Estremoz Castle in Estremoz, Alentejo, Kingdom of Portugal, on July 4, 1336.
Isabel (Elizabeth) was also a tertiary of the Franciscan Order and is venerated as a saint of the Catholic Church.
Sancta Isabel Regina (Saint Elizabeth the Queen),
by Francisco Vilaça, painted in 1893
Born in 1271 into the royal house of Aragon, Isabel (Elizabeth) was the daughter of Infante Pedro (later King Pedro III) and his wife Constance of Sicily and the sister of three kings: Alfonso II and Jaime (James) II of Aragon and Federico (Frederick) III of Sicily.
Isabel (Elizabeth) showed an early enthusiasm for her faith – She said the full Divine Office daily, fasted and did other penance, as well as attended twice-daily choral Masses.
Her marriage to King Denis of Portugal was arranged in 1281 when she was 10 years old, receiving the towns of Óbidos, Abrantes and Porto de Mós as part of her dowry – It was only in 1288 that the wedding was celebrated, when Denis was 26 years old, while Elizabeth was 17.
Denis, a poet and statesman, was known as the Rei Lavrador (Farmer King), because he planted a large pine forest near Leiria to prevent the soil degradation that threatened the region.
Isabel (Elizabeth) quietly pursued the regular religious practices of her youth and was devoted to the poor and sick – Naturally, such a life was a reproach to many around her and caused ill will in some quarters – Eventually, her prayer and patience succeeded in converting her husband, who had been leading a sinful life.
Isabel (Elizabeth) took an active interest in Portuguese politics and was a decisive conciliator during the negotiations concerning the Treaty of Alcañices, signed by Denis and Sancho IV of Castile in 1297 (which fixed the borders between the two countries) – In 1304, the Queen and Denis returned to Spain to arbitrate between Fernando IV of Castile and James II of Aragon, brother of Isabel (Elizabeth).
Isabel (Elizabeth) would serve as intermediary between her husband and their son Afonso, during the Civil War between 1322 and 1324 – The Infante greatly resented the king, whom he accused of favoring the king’s illegitimate son, Afonso Sanches.
Repulsed at Alenquer, Portugal, which supported the Infante, Denis was prevented from killing his son through the intervention of the Queen – As legend holds, in 1323, Isabel (Elizabeth), mounted on a mule, positioned herself between both opposing armies on the field of Alvalade in order to prevent the combat – Peace returned in 1324, once the illegitimate son was sent into exile, and the Infante swore loyalty to the king.
Queen Isabel (Elizabeth), mounted on a mule,
prevents a civil war in 1323, on the field of Alvalade
Isabel (Elizabeth) has two children:
- A daughter named Constance, who married King Fernando (Ferdinand) IV of Spain;
- A son Afonso (who later became King Afonso IV of Portugal).
After King Denis’ death in 1325, Isabel (Elizabeth) retired to the monastery of the Poor Clare nuns, now known as the Monastery of Santa Clara-a-Velha (which she had founded in 1314) in Coimbra.
She joined the Third Order of St. Francis, devoting the rest of her life to the poor and sick in obscurity – During the great famine in 1293, she donated flour from her cellars to the starving in Coimbra.
She was also known for being modest in her dress and humble in conversation, for providing lodging for pilgrims, distributing small gifts, paying the dowries of poor girls, and educating the children of poor nobles.
She was a benefactor of various hospitals (Coimbra, Santarém and Leiria) and of religious projects (such as the Trinity Convent in Lisbon, chapels in Leiria and Óbidos, and the cloister in Alcobaça).
She was called to act once more as a peacemaker in 1336, when King Afonso IV marched his troops against King Alfonso XI of Castile, to whom he had married his daughter Maria, and who had neglected and ill-treated her.
In spite of age and weakness, the Queen-Dowager insisted on hurrying to Estremoz, where the two kings’ armies were drawn up – She again stopped the fighting and caused terms of peace to be arranged.
But the exertion brought on her final illness – As soon as her mission was completed, she took to her bed with a fever from which she died on July 4th, in the castle of Estremoz – She earned the title of Peacemaker on account of her efficacy in solving disputes.
Although Denis’ tomb was located in Odivelas, Isabel (Elizabeth) was buried in the Convent of Santa Clara in Coimbra, in a magnificent Gothic sarcophagus.
After frequent flooding by the Mondego River in the 17th century, the Poor Clares moved her mortal remains to the Monastery of Santa Clara-a-Nova (also in Coimbra) – Her body was transferred to the main chapel, where it was buried in a sarcophagus of silver and crystal.
Isabel (Elizabeth) was beatified in 1526 and canonized by Pope Urban VIII on May 25, 1625 – Her iconography usually depicts her in royal garb with a dove or an olive branch, usually holding roses.
Santa Isabel (Elizabeth) of Portugal
Portrait by José Gil de Castro, c. 1820
As we exit the Chapel, we are now facing the…
Municipal Museum Prof. Joaquim Vermelho (Museu Municipal Prof. Joaquim Vermelho):
The Municipal Museum of Estremoz Prof. Joaquim Vermelho is in an oblong two-story plant building, whose construction dates back to the 13th/14th century, after suffering at the property vast reforms in the following centuries.
Municipal Museum Prof. Joaquim Vermelho (Museu Municipal Prof. Joaquim Vermelho) – Photos: AllAboutPortugal
In this property has already worked the Hospice of Charity, the Royal School, the Primary Men’s School and some classes of the Industrial and Commercial School.
In 1879, President Deville asked the Chamber of Estremoz to organize a small museum in the library, to which he wished to give a local appearance; becoming a permanent exhibition of several peculiar industries of Extremoz, along with the industrial products, as for example of those of marble, cork, ceramics, and those which could be represented of agricultural products – On May 2, 1880, the Library and its Museum were officially opened.
In 1941 the Chamber acquired to the Industrial School about 70 dolls, and in the end of the decade of 1960s, purchases of antiquarian Chambel pieces of sacred art, furniture and earthenware, valuing in this way the initial collection.
Museum Exhibits – Photo: AllAboutPortugal
On March 8, 2003, the Museum was renamed “Municipal Museum Prof. Joaquim Vermelho” – in 2006, Prof. Joaquim Vermelho was the founder of the Museum Network of the Municipality of Estremoz.
On June 26, 2015 the Municipal Museum inaugurated a new permanent exhibition: This exhibition is divided by the two floors of the Museum, and the top floor in Room 1 and 2 has collections of folk art by artists such as Mestre Rolo, José Vinagre, António Amaral and Joaquim Velhinho – In Rooms 3, 4 and 5 there is a reconstitution of a Casa Alentejana (Alentenjan House) from the end of the 19th century, first half of the 20th century.
Casa Alentejana (Alentenjan House)
Exploring the Museum
Are presented in the figurative folk art collections of Estremoz from the 18th century to the present day and a collection of local pottery from the last two decades of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century.
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
Figurative folk art collection
We walked downhill back to lower town. On the way, we saw the Central square of Estremoz with a marble pillory (pelourinho), and we made a stop to see the…
Sisters Flores Artisan Shop (Irmãs Flores Loja Artesanato):
We stepped inside this shop to see some of the best Bonecos (Dolls) of Estremoz; Open Monday – Friday, 9 am – 1 pm; 2 pm – 7 pm; Saturday, 9 am – 1 pm; Closed Sunday.
![]()
Sisters Flores Artisan Shop (Irmãs Flores Loja Artesanato) – Photo: cabaredogoucha.pt/
The owners of this shop are Maria Inácia and Perpétua Fonseca, better known by the Sisters Flores (Irmãs Flores) – They are the most important artisans in the production of figures of Estremoz.
![]()
Maria Inácia and Perpétua Fonseca – the Sisters Flores (Irmãs Flores) – Photo: cabaredogoucha.pt/
These women also have a nephew, Ricardo Fonseca, who has also taken up the trade – The bad news is that Ricardo, in his 30s, is today Estremoz’s youngest craftsman – No wonder the earth fears for the future of its clay dolls – Maria Inácia laments that even schools do not look at this art and have already suggested this with teachers, but without success.
![]()
Ricardo working at the shop – Photo: cabaredogoucha.pt/
Maria Inácia and Perpétua Fonseca has been working in their own name for 30 years, however, for about 45 years they began to learn from master Sabina Santos, considered one of the artisans of the 20th century.
![]()
Working on the Bonecos (Dolls)
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
Selection of their Bonecos (Dolls)
![]()
Our Boneco (Doll) in Denver, Colorado
Our tour of Estremoz today is over. We’ll be back in a couple of days to check-in-to and view the Pousada da Rainha Santa Isabel. Now we headed by car back to Vila Viçosa.