April 13, 2019:
Today we are going to be doing a lot of walking – along the Mondego River, up and down the hills and streets of Coimbra, through the University of Coimbra, and lastly mostly downhill through the hills and streets of Coimbra.
Overview of Coimbra
The college town of Coimbra – just two to three hours north of Lisbon by train, bus, or car – is Portugal’s Oxford, and the country’s easiest to enjoy city.
Coimbra – Wikipedia – François Philipp
Culturally and historically, Coimbra (koo-EEM-brah) is second only to Lisbon – It was Portugal’s leading city while the Moors controlled Lisbon (8th to 12th century) and the country’s capital for more than 100 years (12th to mid-13th century) – Only when Portugal’s maritime fortunes rose did the ports of Lisbon and Porto manage to surpass landlocked Coimbra.
The earthquake that devastated Lisbon in 1755 spared Coimbra – Coimbra’s “earthquake” came much later, in the form of the 20th century Portuguese Dictator Salazar – who demolished much of the old center for his bombastic building projects.
António de Oliveira Salazar
Today, Coimbra (pop. 144,000) is home to the country’s oldest and most prestigious university (founded 1290) – When school is in session, this town bustles with the spirited exuberance of youth – although many students go home on Friday, so weekend nights aren’t as crazy as you might expect (over the summer holidays, the city is almost sleepy).
Old University – Wikipedia – Mgm105
During the school year, you’ll see bands of black-caped students hanging out, rushing to class, or gathered in little clusters on the street singing traditional songs – to each other as much as for tourists – Coimbra’s fado music also has its own special character: Here, it’s performed by college-age-men rather than older women (as in Lisbon).
University of Coimbra students – Wikimedia – Bobo Boom
Any time of year, Coimbra’s inviting Arab-flavored old town – a maze of people, narrow streets, and tiny tascas (restaurants with just a few tables) – awaits exploration.
Fado on the streets of Lisbon
And its main drag – with glassy marbled stone underfoot, old-timey shops and bakeries winking their neon signs, and more locals than tourists – is a delight to simply wander.
Porta da Barbacã – Flickr – Jorge Bastos
But for serious sightseeing, look no further than the historic university, capping the hill above town and offering a busy slate of cultural attractions – By the time you leave town, you’ll know why graduating students sing “Coimbra tem mais encanto na hora da despedida” (Coimbra is the most enchanting at the moment you leave her).
Coimbra at night – Rick Steves – Exploring Colorful Coimbra
Coimbra in History
1064 – Coimbra is taken from the Moors.
1139 – Portugal’s first king, Afonso Henriques I, makes Coimbra his capital.
1211 – Portugal’s first parliament of nobles (cortes) convenes at Coimbra.
1256 – Lisbon replaces Coimbra as Portugal’s capital.
1308 – The University (founded in Lisbon in 1290 under King Denis, reigned 1279-1325), moves to Coimbra.
1537 – The University, after another short stint in Lisbon, resettles permanently in Coimbra under Jesuit administration.
1810 – Napoleon’s French troops sack Coimbra, then England’s Duke of Wellington drives them out.
1928 – António Salazar, professor of political economy at Coimbra, becomes minister of finance and eventually Dictator of Portugal.
Riverfront Walk:
We started our riverfront walk with breakfast at Café Montanha close by our accommodation, on the Largo da Portagem.
Our apartment on the Largo da Portagem
Breakfast at Café Montanha on the Largo da Portagem
Waking up for the day
In the center of the main square outside the Café Montanha is a statue of the prime minister Joaquim (Monumento em homenagem a Joaquim) who, in 1834, shut down the city’s convents and monasteries and earned the nickname the “Friar killer”.
Monumento em homenagem a Joaquim – Largo da Portagem
Much of the old center is ornamented with fin-de-siècle (end of century) architecture (circa 1900) from a boom period; on the left side of the square, notice the fancy pink bank building Agencia do Banco de Portugal and behind it to the left, the exterior of the Hotel Astória.
Agencia do Banco de Portugal and the Hotel Astória
We’re going to the right. The first building we’ll pass is the Coimbra Office of Tourismo (the TI)…
Office of Tourism (TI)
From here it was a short walk to the…
Santa Clara Bridge (Ponte Santa Clara) – This bridge has been an important link across the Mondego River since Roman times – For centuries, it had a tollgate (portagem) – The far end of the bridge offers a fine view of Coimbra.
Santa Clara Bridge (Ponte Santa Clara)
View of the Mondego River before crossing the bridge
View along the river about halfway across the bridge
Cross over the bridge, but before exiting the other side, turn around for a good view of Coimbra…
View of Coimbra on the other side of the bridge
We exited on the other side of the bridge to see on our left the…
Mosteiro de Santa Clara-a-Velha (Old Monastery of St. Clare):
The Mosteiro de Santa Clara-a-Velha (Old Monastery of St. Clare) was built in 1314 at the orders of the Queen Saint Isabel (Elizabeth) of Aragon, replacing a small convent of nuns of the Order of St. Clare, founded in 1286.
King D. Denis and Queen Saint Elizabeth at Sala dos Capelos in the University of Coimbra
Mosteiro de Santa Clara-a-Velha (Old Monastery of St. Clare)
The building was completed in 1330, having been designed by the architect Domingos Domingues, who had previously worked on the Mosteiro de Alcobaça (Monastery of Alcobaça).
Cloister ruins next to the Church – New Monastery of St Clare in the background on top of the hill
This convent is a fine example of the architecture of that period, being notable for the size of the church and cloister and the stone vault that covers the three naves of the church, all of which are of the same size. Classified as a National Monument since June 16, 1910, the Monastery of Santa Clara-a-Velha is placed right along the River Mondego in Coimbra.
However this proximity to the river marked the history of the Monastery from the beginning to the present day – If, on the one hand, the presence of water was an asset to the monastic community and to the day-to-day life in the Royal Palace (built near the Mondego river); on the other hand, the cyclical floods of the Mondego, made life unbearable inside the walls, forcing the definitive abandonment in 1677 and the movement of the nuns to a new convent (Monastery of Santa Clara-a-Nova) in Monte Esperança – the last floods occurred at the Monastery in January and February of 2016.
In the 1990s an interpretation route and a visitor center were added – At the visitor center you can also see a short film about the monastery, including its foundation in the 14th Century by Queen Isabel (Elizabeth), who was initially buried in the Old Monastery of St. Clare, but due to flooding there, her mortal remains were transferred to the Monastery of Santa Clara-a-Nova (New Monastery of St. Clare), where they reside in an imposing Gothic tomb.
Tomb of Queen Saint Elizabeth in the the Monastery of Santa Clara-a-Nova – Wikimedia – Master Pero
Open April 1 – October 14, Tuesday – Sunday, 10 am – 7 pm (last entrance 6:15 pm); Closed, Monday; October 15 – March 31, Tuesday – Sunday, 10 am – 6 pm (last entrance 5:30 pm); Closed, Monday.
We made our way south along the River Mondego, with a great view of the University of Coimbra on our left…
University of Coimbra on top of the hill.
Street Art on a wall
Park along the river
We soon reached a pedestrian bridge…
Ponte Pedonal Pedro e Inês (Pedestrian Bridge – Pedro and Inês):
An integral part of any walking tour in Coimbra, the Pedro e Inês Pedestrian Bridge is a footbridge that opened in 2007 – As well as gifting you a photogenic view of the university on the right bank, the bridge has a cool, clever design.
The spans of the bridge don’t actually meet in the middle; instead there are two cantilevered walkways, joining at the middle to create a wide viewing platform – The balustrade is also snazzy, made from sheets of yellow, pink, blue and green glass in an irregular geometric pattern.
This pedestrian bridge is named for King Dom Pedro I and his lover Doña Inês de Castro (Portugal’s Romeo and Juliet).
Ponte Pedonal Pedro e Inês (Pedestrian Bridge – Pedro and Inês)
Crossing the pedestrian bridge
Google Maps – Bend in the bridge
Better view of the University of Coimbra
Rowers
Ponte Rainha Santa Isabel upstream
Once we exited the pedestrian bridge, we turned left and headed along…
Parque Dr. Manuel Braga or Parque Verde (Green Park):
Coimbra is redeveloping its long-neglected riverside – just to the south of the Santa Clara Bridge, along the Mondego River, is a park (Parque Dr. Manuel Braga or Parque Verde [Green Park]).
Parque Dr. Manuel Braga or Parque Verde (Green Park)
Fountain in the park
Mosteiro de Santa Clara-a-Nova (New Monastery of Saint-Clare) on the left bank
Fountain in the River Mondego
Almost back to Largo da Portagem
Self-Guided Walking Tour of Old Coimbra:
Once we reached our starting location, Largo da Portagem, we started a stroll north down the delightfully pedestrianized Rua de Ferreira Borges…
Rua de Ferreira Borges
The Blue Line Minibus is the only vehicle allowed on the Rua de Ferreira Borges – Flickr – natalyasha
As we reached a small square on Rua de Ferreira Borges, Nancy and Georgia were suprised to be serenaded with Fado music by a group of University students. Fado, or Fado ou Canção de Coimbra (Fado or the song of Coimbra), is a style of Portuguese music that originated in Lisbon in the early 19th century and developed in Coimbra from the 1870s to the 1890s. The style is linked to the city’s university and the medieval tradition of troubadours. Some say the style originated from melodies brought by Brazilian students who came to Coimbra to study in 1860, while others say it came from students from Lisbon. The university city is said to have given the Fado style a unique flavor.
Group of University students playing Fado in the small square on Rua de Ferreira Borges
Nancy and Georgia were serenaded with Fado by University students
Fado in Coimbra
Fado ao Centro is an all-male ensemble of current and former Coimbra University students who sing Fado in the unique local style – The 50-minute shows, held in a cute little hall, end with a glass of port and a little Q&A time with the musicians (€10, Daily at 6 pm, and occasionally, with demand, at 7 pm).
Fado ao Centro – Photo: ThingsToDoPost.org
This is a nice alternative to late-night shows, but can be popular with tour groups; reservations are smart in summer (just past the Arco de Almedina on Rua Quebra Costas 7, +351 239 837 060, www.fadoaocentro.com) – Money raised here supports musicians and promotes local culture.
Google Maps – Rua Quebra Costas 7 – Location of Fado ao Centro
À Capella, on the hill above the Church of the Holy Cross, this nightclub offers an intimate fado experience – A 14th century chapel that has been turned into a temple for Coimbra-style traditional music, and it’s fado almost every night all year long (three musicians perform from 10 pm to about midnight).
À Capella at night – TripAdvisor
Come for the music, the cool scene, the slick background videos adding context to each song, and the snacks and drinks (€13 cover, reservations wise in summer).
À Capella nightclub – TripAdvisor
Climb the steep Rua do Corpo de Deus 100 yards from the Triangular Building on Rua Ferreira Borges until you see the old chapel on your left; + 351 239 833 985, www.acapella.com.pt.
Rua do Corpo de Deus
If you’re coming to eat, note that the chapel opens nightly at 8 pm and serves snacks and wine by the glass
Eating at À Capella – TripAdvisor
Open 8 pm – 2 am (midnight on Sunday).
Diligência is a fado bar famous for its informal music schedule – locals love to come here and just jam (guitar and voice) – In fact, all their regular performers started out as customers who came to sing along
Fado at Diligência – TripAdvisor
The cave-like setting has some basic tapas and drinks – Along with the occasional sing-along, up-and-coming groups often play here – If the music moves you, jump right in (no cover, kitchen opens at 8 am; shows daily 10:30 pm until late) from Praça 8 de Maio, take Rua Sofia to your second left, Diligência is 2 blocks up on your right at Rua Nova 30; +351 239 827 667.
Diligência entrance – Yelp
Restaurante O Trovador:
This is your best place for dinner with fado in Coimbra – Reservations are essential to eat with the music – ask for a seat with a music view – When busy, the musicians alternate between two dining rooms.
Restaurante O Trovador – TripAdvisor
Restaurante O Trovador – Trip.com
During performances, guests must order food – not just drinks (music nearly nightly in June – August from 9 pm; off-season Friday, Saturday only, no cover; meals Monday – Saturday, 7:30 pm 10:30 pm; Closed Sunday), facing the old cathedral at Largo de Sé Velha 15, +351 239 825 475, www.restaurantetrovador.com.
More Fado:
During the tourist season, you’ll find sit-down fado most nights at Café Santa Cruz (Praça 8 de Maio, Open Daily, 8 am – midnight).
Café Santa Cruz – Flickr – Horacio Selmer
The balconied building trimmed with lacy ironwork that the University students were playing Fado in front of opened as the Chiado Department Store in 1909. Today it’s a Municipal Museum (Edificio Chiado/Museu Municipal) that houses an eclectic assortment of artworks and textiles donated by local collector José Telo de Morais.
Google Maps – Municipal Museum (Edificio Chiado/Museu Municipal)
Cost and Hours: €1.80, Open Tuesday – Friday, 10 am – 6 pm; Saturday, Sunday, 10 am – 1 pm; 2 pm – 6 pm; Closed Monday, at Rua Ferreira Borges 85, +351 239 857 525, www.cm-coimbra.pt.
Visiting the Museum: Take the elevator up to the top floor and walk your way down, noticing the exposed iron beams.
– The third floor has ceramics, drawings, and a collection of silverware
– The second floor has 17th- and 18th- century furniture as well as religious paintings and objects
– The first floor holds oil and pastel paintings from the 19th and early 20th centuries
– The ground floor houses a free temporary exhibit, and the small (and also free) Galeria Almedina, which highlights emerging student artists.
Next door to the Municipal Museum is the…
Casa Da Sorte: This is a lottery shop – these are much loved in Portugal – Step inside and feel the energy of gamblers unwittingly letting the state take their money to fund social programs – Check to see what is the current total for the Euromilhões (European-wide “euro-millions” lottery)?
Casa da Sorte lottery shop
At the corner (on your right), steps lead up through an ancient arched gateway – the Arco de Almedina – into the old city and to the old Cathedral and University (later, after visiting the University, we’ll finish this Self-Guided Old Coimbra Walk by going downhill through this arch).
Arco de Almedina
Now we retraced our steps to the small square, where street vendors were set up and selling their wares.
Street Vendors set up in the small square
We took the stairs down from the square (under the gigantic street art portrait of what looks like Sigmund Freud) leading to a terrace overlooking the square below (pay public WC – sanitários – are in the stairwell).
Sigmund Freud street art
Down the stairs from the small square
Praça do Comércio:
This pleasant square below the “Sigmund Freud” street art is, literally, the place of commerce – It was originally just outside the city walls – a kind of medieval duty-free zone where merchants could trade tax-free
Praça do Comércio
Two churches bookending the square are a reminder that religious orders also set up outside the city walls – beyond the Praça do Comércio stretches the rough end of town.
The church on the left, Igreja de São Bartolomeu (Church of St. Bartholomew) is very old, being known to have existed since the middle of the 10th century, as evidenced by a document that states that the church was donated to the Lorvão Monastery in 957. This original church was rebuilt in the 12th century in the Romanesque style. Its current appearance dates from the reconstruction undertaken in the 18th century, due to the state of ruin from Islamic invasions from the 12th century.
Igreja de São Bartolomeu (Church of St. Bartholomew)
The streets branching off the square were named for the type of product traditionally made or traded there (such as Rua das Azeiteiras, named for olive-oil producers).
Rua das Azeiteiras
This part of town was “outside the wall” – only the rich could afford to live within the protective city walls of the Alta, or high town. Even today, the Baixa, or lower town, remains a poorer section. But it’s a fine area for wandering around during the day to explore small shops and eateries, and to get thoroughly disoriented.
The Baixa (lower town)
The church at the far end of the Praça do Comércio, Igreja de São Tiago (Church of St. James) was built between the late 12th and early 13th centuries, is one of the great Romanesque monuments of the city, and is classified as a National Monument.
Igreja de São Tiago (Church of St. James)
We went up the stairs next to the Igreja de São Tiago to return to the pedestrianized Rua de Ferreira Borges, now called Rua Visconde da Luz. We continued walking up this street, shopping on our way.
Shopping on Rua Visconde da Luz
The Bragas Men’s Store (near the end of the street, on the right at # 35), with hats and ties, is one of the shrinking number of old-time shops left on this street (Malls are sucking this kind of business out to the suburbs as a rising tide of tourism changes the character of this venerable street).
Bragas Men’s Store
At the end of Rua Visconde da Luz, we entered a large square, Praça 8 de Maio, with the Café Santa Cruz, Igreja e Mosteiro de Santa Cruz (Church and Monastery of Santa Cruz), and the Câmara Municipal de Coimbra (Coimbra City Hall) on our right.
Praça 8 de Maio
Praça 8 de Maio (8th of May Square)
The 8th of May Square is so named because it was on that day, in the year 1834, that the Liberal troops of the Duke of Terceira entered the city with French Revolutionary ideas, and the state asserted its secular power over the Church and the Monarchy.
Praça 8 de Maio (8th of May Square) – Flickr – by Jefferson Gray
Until then, and even long after, it was popularly known as Largo de Sansão (Samson Square), due to the fact that existed in the center of the square a statue of this biblical character that overlaid a fountain erected there – Built under the command of D. Afonso Martins, prior of Holy Cross, the statue was added in 1592.
Old photo of the 8th of May Square
Curious is the fact that, in 1612, the Coimbra Câmara (Chamber of the Municipality) decided to prohibit the washing of crockery and clothes there.
This fountain was demolished in 1876, in order for the present building of the Municipal Council of Coimbra to be constructed.
In ancient times the Largo de Sansão was one of the favorite places for the saleswomen, to sell their produce there and not only, which led the Câmara, in 1784, to determine that it was only there that saleswomen with more than 50 years old and of good reputation could transact their products.
We stopped in to look at the…
Café Santa Cruz – A former chapel of the Monastery of Santa Cruz next door is one of Portugal’s most beautiful cafés since 1923. It’s a Coimbra landmark, with the atmosphere expected at a monumental and classic European café.
Café Santa Cruz
We then went next door to the…
Igreja e Mosteiro de Santa Cruz (Church and Monastery of Santa Cruz):
Igreja de Santa Cruz (Church of Santa Cruz)
Monastery of Santa Cruz plan
1 Church nave;
2 Chancel;
3 Tomb of D. Afonso Henriques; 4 Tomb of D. Sancho I;
5 Sacristy;
6 Treasury;
7 Toilet;
8 Chapter Room;
9 Chapel of S. Teotónio;
10 Chapel of Jesus;
11 Chapel of S. Miguel;
12 Cloister;
13 Former cafeteria;
14 Café Santa Cruz;
15 Coimbra City Hall
As the pantheon of the country’s first two kings, this is one of Portugal’s most important churches. It’s part of a 12th-century monastery, but little remains of the original temple from 1131. Most of it dates from a major restoration in the 1500s, which followed the Manueline (Portuguese Gothic) style of the time. The Gothic royal tombs date from that period, and were placed in the chancel.
The Nave
The tomb of the first Portuguese king, Afonso Henriques – Photo: Reddit – /r/ArtefactPorn
Detail – Tomb of Afonso Henriques – Wikimedia – Vitor Oliveir
Tomb of D. Sancho I
(son of King D. Afonso Henriques I) – Photo: Gailatlarge.com
The choir stalls were carved in 1518, with a frieze showing Portuguese ships of the “Age of Discovery.”
“Age of Discovery” frieze on choir stalls – Wikimedia – Manuelvbotelho
The complex organ, with Japanese ornamentation, has 4,000 pipes, and only four people can play it.
Ornate organ – Wikimedia – Jebulon
The rest of the interior is decorated with baroque tile panels, illustrating episodes of the history of Portugal. Due to errors at the factory in Lisbon, they have different shades of blue. They covered 12th-century frescoes, which faded after constant flooding of the church.
History of Portugal tiles – Wikimedia – Diego Delso
Baroque tile panels – Wikimedia – Joseolgon
Cost and Hours – The church is free, but there’s a small admission charge for the sacristy, monastery, and cloisters.
Cloister – Mosteiro da Santa Cruz (Monastery of Santa Cruz) – TripAdvisor
When we left the church, we encountered a woman selling homemade baked bread from the region. It was some of the best “sweetbread” we’ve ever had…
Woman selling bread in front of the church
Câmara Municipal de Coimbra (Coimbra City Hall):
The current Coimbra City Hall building was part of the larger complex of the Monastery/Church of Santa Cruz. The appearance of the building that we see today originated in 1876 with the demolition of part of the monastery, which after a few more interventions, such as in 1878, with the demolition of the house adjacent to the church, was inaugurated in 1879.
Câmara Municipal de Coimbra (Coimbra City Hall) – Flickr – kpmst7
We continued past the City Hall and turned right at the next corner, onto Rua Olímpio Nicolau Rui Fernandes and one block later, saw on our right the…
Jardim da Manga:
This park, with a fountain which was once a monastery cloister and Renaissance garden, is one of the first entirely Renaissance architectural works completed in Portugal with a structure which is evocative of the Fountain of Life. It has been classified as a National Monument since 1934.
Jardim da Manga
The garden is dominated by a building, of which currently only the central dome and fountain remain, connected to four small chapels and surrounded by small rectangular lakes. In the chapels, three small altarpieces stand out, very mutilated, attributed to João de Ruão. Originally there were four.
Jardim da Manga interior – TripAdvisor
Regarding its construction and toponymy, local tradition states that, one day when King João III of Portugal was visiting the monastery, and coming across a large unused space, he sketched on the sleeve of his doublet a cloister and surrounding garden, which he then sent to execute.
In Renaissance style, the fountain is characterized by a central body in the shape of a dome, based on eight columns and surrounded by four small chapels. The water games inspired by Arabic architecture stand out.
Closeup of the Jardim da Manga – TripAdvisor
Jardim de Manga Restaurante:
A cheap, handy, and recommended self-service restaurant, Jardim de Manga, is located right behind the Jardim de Manga park/fountain.
Nice selection of food/drink items – TripAdvisor
This restaurant allows you to eat indoors or outside right next to one of the most interesting sites in Coimbra (if there is a table available).
Enjoying the view outside – TripAdvisor
Just slide a tray, cafeteria style, down the counter and pick what you like (plenty of fresh fish, and fine foods, wine and beer).
Self-service menu – TripAdvisor
Open Daily 12 pm – 3 pm; 7 pm – 10 pm, +351 239 829 156.
We returned to Rua Olímpio Nicolau Rui Fernandes and turned right, and then turned right again at the next outside parking area (Largo do Mercado Municipal Dom Pedro V), the entrance to the Mercado Municipal Dom Pedro V (Municipal Market of D. Pedro V).
Street Art:
Before entering the market, we checked out some street art along the walls at the back of the parking lot on the right side of the market – perhaps done for the Coimbra University Science Museum (Museu da Ciênca – see below)…. and some street along Rua Olímpio Nicolau Rui Fernandes across from the market.
Google Maps – Street art in the back of the parking area right of the market
Google Maps – Street art along along Rua Olímpio Nicolau Rui Fernandes across from the market
Mercado Municipal Dom Pedro V (Municipal Market of D. Pedro V):
We now entered the market. This large, modern indoor market has stalls selling fruit, seafood, pastries & bargain clothing, among other things.
Market entrance – TripAdvisor
Open Monday – Saturday, 8 am – 2 pm; Closed Sunday, busiest on Tuesday and Friday.
Mercado Municipal Dom Pedro V (Municipal Market of D. Pedro V)
At this point, we were going to take the Elevador do Mercado from behind the market to go up the hill and reach our next stop.
The Elevador do Mercado – Wikimedia – Eduarda7
However, the Elevador do Mercado was out of service, so we were forced to find an alternative means of getting there – either 1) a 15-minute steep, up-hill walk; 2) a 3-minute bus ride and 6-minute walk; or 3) a 4-minute taxi ride [Uber wasn’t available then]). We opted for the last choice, getting dropped off at the entrance to the…
New Cathedral (Sé Nova Catedral de Coimbra):
Sé Nova means new cathedral, but this is only relatively speaking. The cathedral building dates back to the late 16th century and was built by the Jesuit Order. However, in 1759 the Jesuits were banned from operating in Portugal by then prime-minister, the Marquis de Pombal.
The upper part of the facade was only completed in the early 18th century and is distinctly Baroque in style as compared to the Mannerist lower half.
New Cathedral (Sé Nova Catedral de Coimbra)
With this spacious, modern church now vacant it was decided in 1772 that the episcopal seat should be transferred from the old Romanesque cathedral to here. Henceforth this was referred to as the Sé Nova (New Cathedral) and the older church the Sé Velha (Old Cathedral).
The church itself still retains some of its Jesuit references such as the saints which are situated on the lower part of the facade (four statues of Jesuit saints are on the façade of the church (St. Ignatius of Loyola, St. Francis Xavier, St. Francis Borgia, and St. Louis Gonzaga).
Jesuit saint statue on the front façade of the Church –
Photo: Diego Delso
Inside the church there is a barrel vaulted ceiling with a dome and cupola. The impressive main altarpiece is of gilt wood and flanked by a pair of wonderfully ornate Baroque pipe organs.
Nave – Photo: ChrisTravelBlog
Main altar – Wikimedia – José Luis Filpo Cabana
The 17th-century choir stalls of the main chapel were transferred from the Sé Velha (Old Cathedral), as was the beautifully carved octagonal stone baptismal font – the work of Pero and Felipe Henriques in late Gothic-Manueline style.
Choir stalls of the main chapel – portugaltips.com
Baptismal font – Travel In Portugal
Open Monday – Saturday, 9 am – 7:30 pm; Sunday, 10 am – 12:30 pm; Closed Holidays; €1
Return to Rua São João and go south until you reach Largo Porta Férrea. Turn right here, and you will reach an old iron gate…
Iron-Gate (Porta Férrea):
Before entering the gate, stand with your back to the iron-gate and look across the stark, modern square at the fascist architecture of the new University – In the 1940s, in what’s considered one of the worst cultural crimes in Portuguese history, the dictator António Salazar tore down half of Coimbra’s Old Town to build these new University halls.
Google Maps – New University
The grandiose ceremonial approach to the new University, bombastic and utilitarian to fit fascist taste, is flanked by the faculties of letters, medicine, science, and the general library – The law school is behind you, inside the old campus.
Salazar, proud that Portugal was the last European power to hang onto its colonial empire, wanted a thoroughly monumental University here – After all, Salazar – along with virtually everyone else of political influence in Portugal – had been educated at Coimbra, where he studied law and then became an Economics professor.
António de Oliveira Salazar
If these bold buildings are reminiscent of Mussolini’s E.U.R. (residential and business district in Rome, Italy), perhaps it’s because they were built in part by Italian architects hired by Portugal’s “little Mussolini (Salazar)”.
Now turn around and look at the iron-gate – Traditionally, freshmen – proudly wearing their black capes for the first time – pass through the iron-gate to enroll – Also traditionally, they have to pass through an iron-gate gauntlet of upperclassmen to leave …
The Iron Gate is a 17th-century confection designed by architect António Tavares in 1634 on the orders of Rector D Álvaro da Costa. It stands on the same spot as the original gateway to Coimbra’s Moorish citadel and was the first major work following the acquisition of the Royal Palace by King Felipe I in 1597.
Each side of the gate features one of the university’s founding monarchs: King Dinis on the outside and João III on the courtyard side. Above them stands the figure of Wisdom, the insignia of the university, while female figures represent the university’s early faculties – Medicine and Law (exterior) and Theology and Canons (interior). The symbol of wisdom also appears in the paved walk that precedes the entry.
King João III from the inside courtyard
Wisdom on the pavement in front of the gate – Wikimedia – Concierge.2C
Now enter the gate to the…
Entering the gate
Old University:
The venerable centuries-old University, founded in 1290, was modeled after Bologna’s University (Europe’s first, founded in 1139) – It occupies a stately three-wing former royal palace (from when Coimbra was the capital), beautifully situated overlooking the city.
Old University Courtyard – Photos: by Alvesgaspar
At first, law, medicine, grammar, and logic were taught – Then, with the rise of seafaring in Portugal, astronomy and geometry were added – While Lisbon’s University is much larger, Coimbra’s University (with 25,000 students) is still the country’s most respected.
The University’s most important sights all face this square: the Grand Hall (up the grand stairway on the right);
Grand Hall
St. Michael’s Chapel (straight ahead, through the door, then to the left);
St. Michael’s Chapel
and King João’s Library (across the square, farthest door on the left, flanked by columns).
King João’s Library
The statue in the square is of King João III (1502 – 1557) – While the University was established in 1290, it went back and forth between Lisbon and Coimbra – In 1537, João finally established the school permanently in Coimbra.
King João III as patron to the University
Standing like a good humanist (posing hand on hip, much like we’re used to seeing his contemporary, England’s King Henry VIII), King João III modernized Portugal’s educational system in the Renaissance style.
Statue of King João III
But, unlike Henry, who broke the local power of the Church, King João (grandson of the ultra-Catholic Queen Isabel of Spain) empowered the Church – He let the Jesuits – the guardians of Orthodoxy – run this University, which became the center of Portugal’s Inquisition.
The black capes famously worn by local students originated with the capes worn by Jesuits and clergy during this period – Like the uniforms at American Catholic schools, standardized clothing removes the focus on power-dressing and equalizes people of all classes.
Cost: Programa 3 costs €10 and covers the Grand Hall, St. Michael’s Chapel, and King João’s Library at the Old University; Programa 1 costs €12 and adds the worthwhile Science Museum, a 5-minute walk away (Best Option).
You can add €1 to any ticket to climb the tower – Buy your ticket at the counter located inside the Biblioteca Geral (General Library just outside the Iron Gate to the right).
Hours: April – October, Daily 9 am – 7:30 pm; November – March, Monday – Friday, 9:30 am – 1 pm; 2 pm – 5:30 pm; Saturday, Sunday, 10 am – 4 pm.
When to Go: King João’s Library, the complex’s highlight, is accessible only via a timed-entry receipt that comes with your ticket – Reservations are not possible; on very busy days, you may have to wait for hours – If you anticipate crowds, arrive by the opening time of 10 am.
The Bell Tower:
The dreaded sound of the clock tower’s bell – named the “baby goat” for its nagging – calls students for class – On several occasions, the clapper has been stolen (No bell… No class… Big party) – A larger bell (the “big goat”) rings only on important, formal occasions.
The existent clock, dated 1866-67, is the latest of a long series of clocks – Similarly, it replaced, in 1728, another one that had the exact same functions. Today, as in the past, the bells also call upon the academic community for the solemn acts performed in the Great Hall, and toll in funeral tone for the death of a professor.
Bell Tower
We started our visit of the Old University at…
St. Michael’s Chapel (Capela de São Miguel):
The building of St. Michael’s Chapel was probably built in the 12th century and served as the private oratory for the former Royal Palace. It is named after Archangel Michael, the protector of King Afonso Henriques (first king of Portugal).
On the outside, a large portal dominates the façade. This naturalistic structure is flanked by two pillars covered in strong maritime symbolism. At the centre is the Portuguese Royal Crest, together with the Cross of Christ and the Armillary Sphere. The current structure is the result of restoration to the Royal Palace, carried out during the 16th century on the orders of King Manuel.
We entered the chapel through the door to the right of the chapel portal – once inside, we entered another door on the left marked capela.
Google Maps – Entrance to St. Michael’s Chapel (on the right)
Tiled room outside the St. Michael’s Chapel
The architecture of the chapel interior is Manueline – notice the golden “rope” trimming the arch before the altar.
Notice the “rope” trimming the arch before the altar
The large altar-piece, which covers the wall above the high altar with a large central throne, dates back to the 18th century and is decorated with golden gilt. To the left is a representation of Archangel Michael.
The Altarpiece
The altar is 17th-century Mannerist, with steps unique to Portugal (and her South American colonies); based on Jacob’s Ladder, they symbolize the steps the faithful take on their journey to heaven.
St. Michael the Archangel on the left, steps to heaven in the middle
In addition to the high altar, there are two other side altars; to the left is the altar of Our Lady of Light, the patronness of the academic community, and two smaller statues representing St. Joseph and St. Augustine.
Our Lady of Light and two smaller statues representing St. Joseph and St. Augustine
To the right is the altar of St. Catherine and the statues of Jesuits Ignatius of Loyola and Francis Borgia. Next to this altar is a statue of the Immaculate Conception, the patroness of the University and of Portugal.
St. Catherine and the statues of Jesuits Ignatius of Loyola and Francis Borgia (on the right).
The Immaculate Conception (on the left). The white and blue patterned tiles in the background were laid in 1613.
To the right of this side altar is the pulpit.
The Pulpit
The ceiling above the high altar bears the insignia of the University of Coimbra, represented by a Christian figure and the emblems of the three major faculties, according to the old division of the university: Theology, Canon Law, Civil Law and Medicine.
The ceiling of the nave bears the royal coat of arms, surrounded by the three major archangels: St. Michael, St. Raphael, and St. Gabriel.
Ceiling of the nave
The baroque German-built Organ, dating back to 1737 and containing more than 2000 tubes, stands out in the decoration of Chapel. The organ is enclosed in a wooden box covered in gilded engravings and decorated with oriental motifs (chinoiserie). Comissioned by King John V, this organ was meant for a much larger church. This explains why it appears to be disproportionate to the space in which it finds itself. It is still used for concerts, masses and other religious ceremonies, and is in perfect working order.
The Organ is notable for its horizontal “trumpet” pipes – Found only in Iberia, these help the organist perform the allegorical fight between good and evil – with the horizontal pipes announcing the arrival of the good guys.
Organ
Above the Choir, set aside for the academic music group that plays during Sunday masses, is the royal tribune, the space with a privileged view of the Chapel where the royal family would attend ceremonies.
Royal Tribune above the Choir
The tiled walls, forming a kind of “carpet”, that cover a large part of the chapel nave, were manufactured in Lisbon and laid in the mid-17th century. These “carpet tiles” kept the chapel cool in the summer.
Carpet tiles
Next, we visited the…
Grand Hall (Sala dos Capelos):
The arcaded passageway between the iron-gate and the Clock Tower is called the Via Latina, from the days when only Latin was spoken in this part of the University.
The Via Latina passageway
From the middle of the Via Latina, we entered through the door, and then went up a tile stairway, and followed the marked route to balconies that looked into the Grand Hall – the site of the University’s major academic ceremonies, such as oral exams and graduations.
Took the tiled stairway up
The regally red Grand Hall was originally the throne room of the Royal Palace – Today, the rector’s green chair sits like a throne in front – During ceremonies, students in their formal attire fill the benches, and teachers sit along the perimeter as gloomy portraits of Portuguese kings watch from above.
Grand Hall
The fine, old, painted ceiling features “Indo-Portuguese” themes, reminding Portugal’s next generation of leaders of the global reach of their nation.
Ceiling of the Grand Hall
Angel statues
We continue past the end of the Grand Hall, to an ornately decorated former royal stateroom (until recently a place where students took their oral exams as portraits of past university rectors looked on).
Former Royal Stateroom
Just past this room a door led to a narrow observation gallery offering great views of Coimbra.
Observation Gallery
Old Cathedral
Old Town Coimbra
Mondego River
17th century Santa Clara Convent
New Cathedral – Machado de Castro Museum
Observation gallery with views of Coimbra
We exited the building, and made our way to…
Exiting the Building
King João’s Library (Biblioteca Joanina):
In this elegant building, one of Europe’s best surviving Baroque libraries, there are 55,000 books displayed in 18th century splendor – The zealous doorkeeper locks the door at every opportunity to keep out humidity.
Latin inscription over the library door – serra-mar.blogspot.com
We were led to a room with an old printing press and some archived books while we awaited our timed-entry into the library.
Our waiting room for the library
Inside in library, at the “high altar”, stands the library’s founder, the absolute monarch, King João V (1698 – 1750), who considered France’s King Louis XIV an inspiration (and they have similar hairstyles).
[Photography was not permitted – the pictures below were found and attributed from the Internet].
King João V’s portrait in the library – Wikipedia – Photo: Jl FilpoC
The reading tables, inlaid with exotic South American woods (and ornamented with silver ink wells), and the precious wood shelves (with clever hideaway staircases), are reminders that Portugal’s wealth was great – and imported (mostly from Brazil).
Reading tables – Photo: Ulysses Travel
Built Baroque, the interior is all wood – Even the “marble” on the arches of triumph that divide the library into rooms is painted wood (real marble would add to the humidity).
Baroque arches – Wikipedia – Photo: tacoekkel
TThe resident bats – who live in the building, but not the library itself – are well cared for and appreciated (they eat insects, providing a chemical-free way of protecting the books, and alert the guard to changing weather with their “eee-eee” cry).
Look for the trompe l’oeil (visual illusions) Baroque tricks on the painted ceiling.
Trompe l’oeil on the ceilings – Photo: World Monuments Fund
We exited the library and exited the Old University through the Iron-Gate (Porta Férrea) – walked one block on Largo Porta Férrea, turned left on Rua São João and then went one block downhill to reach, on our left…
Museu Nacional Machado de Castro:
This museum’s name is a homage by the city of Coimbra, his birthplace, to Joaquim Machado de Castro, the most notable representative of 18th century Portuguese sculpture. The bishop’s palace, which houses the museum collections, retains a fine 12th-century cloister, creating the ideal environment for one of the most complete art collections in Portugal. We decided to skip the museum on this trip.
Museu Nacional Machado de Castro
We turned left here and started going downhill behind this museum. Nancy and Georgia enjoyed a pretty little flower and gift shop right behind the museum, Arte and Flor, at 54 Rua Borges Carneiro.
Arte & Flor
We wound downhill through tiny streets until we reached…
Downhill on tiny streets
Old Cathedral of Coimbra (Sé Velha de Coimbra):
Coimbra’s first cathedral is called “Old” (“Velha”) because a newer church was made the city’s second cathedral in the 18th century.
The Old Cathedral dates from 1117, and was designed by Portuguese and French architects. It preserves much of the original Romanesque architecture, which is rather rare in major churches of the time around Portugal and Europe.
Old Cathedral of Coimbra (Sé Velha de Coimbra)
From the outside, it looks like a fortress, but the side portal reminds us that it’s a church, and is a fine example of the Renaissance style.
Renaissance side portal
Entry is via the west portal of the Cathedral.
West Portal
Inside, very little has changed over the centuries. Only tiles brought from Seville in 1503, Gothic altarpieces, and baroque paintings were added over time, with the highlight being the chancel’s extraordinary gilded Gothic altarpiece created by Flemish sculptors in the early 1500s.
Gothic altarpiece
Our Lady of Rosario
The cloisters, from 1218, were the first in Portugal to follow the Gothic style.
Cloisters – Wikimedia – Raph
Cost & Hours: Tickets are €2.50. No visits are allowed during Mass, which happens on weekdays at 5:30 pm, at 6:30 pm on Saturdays and at 9:30 am on Sundays. The Cathedral is open daily from 10 am to 5:30 pm on weekdays and to 6:30 pm on Saturdays; Sundays, open from 11 am to 5 pm.
We were getting hungry, so we stopped at the corner below the Cathedral at Café Sé Velha. Here we got a good seat to people watch and they traversed the narrow steep streets.
Café Sé Velha
After our meal, Georgia and Nancy did a little window shopping around the Cathedral square (Largo da Sé Velha)…
Shopping on Largo da Sé Velha
From here, we took the steep staircase next to Café Sé Velha leading down to Rua Quebra Costas, the “Street of Broken Ribs” – At one time, this lane had no steps, and literally was the street of broken ribs – During a strong rain, this street becomes a river.
“Street of Broken Ribs”
We descended a series of stairways and steep roads with little shops.
Little shops along the way
We noticed the charming statue of Tricana (the term given for a local woman in traditional folk dress) resting after a trip to the well. She represents the usual target of fado love songs.
Tricana
After Tricana, we made our way through the Arco de Almedina (the only ancient and original Moorish entrance gate to the city of Coimbra) and on the other side, found a Fado memorial (in the shape of a guitar).
Arco de Almedina
Fado Memorial
One more arch, the Porta de Barbacã (Barbican Gate) and we were back at Rua Ferreira Borges.
Google Maps – Porta de Barbacã
Here, we turned left, and made our way back to Largo da Portagem and our accommodation, and a good night’s sleep.