April 21, 2019:
Today we participated in the Easter Sunday Resurrection Procession festivities in Castelo de Vide, drove to and explored the Sanctuary of Fátima, and then drove to and finished the day in Óbidos.
Resurrection Procession – Castelo de Vide:
Easter Sunday begins with the Resurrection Procession with its long established routing and hierarchy.
It involves various local associations and institutions in addition to some of the longest standing (carpenters, cobblers, ironsmiths, stone masons, etc) as well as more recent professions. Mass in the Matrix Church closes celebrations. It is then the congregation makes its donations to help cover the costs of Holy Week.
Easter Sunday – Resurrection Procession – Castelo de Vide
Band comes down the hill – Resurrection Procession – Part 1
Resurrection Procession – Part 2
Resurrection Procession – Part 3
Resurrection Procession – Part 4
Resurrection Procession – Part 5
Resurrection Procession – Part 6
Sanctuary of Fátima:
The spotlight on Fátima began on May 13, 1917, when three children, Lucia dos Santos (age 10) and her cousins Francisco Marto (age 9) and Jacinta Marto (age 7), claimed to have seen “a lady brighter than the sun” on an oak tree while pasturing a small flock in Cova da Iria, near the small rural village of Aljustrel.
Lúcia dos Santos (left) with her cousins Francisco and Jacinta Marto, 1917
The three children claimed to have seen the Blessed Virgin Mary in six apparitions, between May 13 and October 13, 1917, and shared several prophecies that caught both public and religious authorities’ attention.
The children said the Virgin Mary told them prayer would end World War I, as well as other politically motivated messages involving Russia. They also said that on October 13 of that year, the Virgin Mary would perform a miracle “so that all may believe”. Newspapers reported the prophecies and during the following months, thousands of pilgrims flocked to Fátima, drawn by reports of visions and miracles.
Capelinha das Aparições (Chapel of the Apparitions):
The construction of the Sanctuary of Fátima began in 1919 with the first Capelinha das Aparições (Chapel of the Apparitions), built on the spot where the three children claimed to have seen the Virgin Mary for the first time.
Our Lady of Fatima in the Capelinha das Aparições (Chapel of the Apparitions)
Basilica of Our Lady of the Rosary of Fátima (Basílica de Nossa Senhora do Rosário):
At the end of the Sanctuary’s huge plaza, you will find the most iconic building in the shrine, the Basilica of Our Lady of the Rosary of Fátima (Basílica de Nossa Senhora do Rosário). Its construction began in 1928.
Basilica of Our Lady of the Rosary of Fátima (Basílica de Nossa Senhora do Rosário)
Interior – Basilica of Our Lady of the Rosary of Fátima
One of the things you will notice while visiting Fátima’s main basilica is the peacefulness inside the church. A place for meditation and prayer, where you can also visit the tombs of Francisco, Jacinta and Lucia.
Tomb of Francisco
Tombs of Jacinta and Lucia
Basilica of the Holy Trinity (Basílica da Santíssima Trindade):
The most recent building, the Basilica of the Holy Trinity, was inaugurated on October 12, 2007 by the Vatican Secretary of State, Cardinal Tarcisio Bertone, on the occasion of the 90th anniversary of the apparitions. It has an impressive 8,633 seats and an area of 40,000 m².
Basilica of the Holy Trinity (Basílica da Santíssima Trindade) – Photo: portugal-the-simple-life.com
Interior – Basilica of the Holy Trinity – Wikimedia – Therese C
Other photos – Sanctuary of Fátima
Pilgrim on his knees
Óbidos:
Óbidos is the classic Portuguese fortified walled town, and is one of the most picturesque locations in Portugal. Óbidos radiates Portuguese charm, from the narrow cobbled streets, the quaint houses, through to the imposing medieval castle, which once guarded the region.
Óbidos castle
Santuario do Senhor Jesus da Pedra (Sanctuary of the Lord Jesus of the Stone):
Outside the village of Óbidos, on the road to Caldas da Rainha, stands the Sanctuary of the Lord Jesus of the Stone, a temple inaugurated in 1747.
The Sanctuary of the Lord Jesus of the Stone was built in memory of Dom Joao V, the result of a tragic event that he had managed to escape by invoking the Lord of the Stone in distress.
The Sanctuary of the Lord Jesus of the Stone is a temple all built in stone – The work was authored by Captain Rodrigo Franco (of the Patriarchal Miter) and has the particularity of articulating a cylindrical (outer) volume with a hexagonal polygon (interior), in a centered plan to which three bodies (two corresponding to the towers and another corresponding to the sacristy) are attached – In its program of symmetries stands out the game of inverted windows.
Santuario do Senhor Jesus da Pedra (Sanctuary of the Lord Jesus of the Stone)
Its interior has three chapels: the main chapel dedicated to Calvary, with a screen by André Gonçalves, and the side chapels dedicated to Our Lady of Conception and the Death of St. Joseph, with paintings by José da Costa Negreiros.
Main Chapel – Cavalry
Side Chapel – Our Lady of Conception
Side Chapel – Death of Joseph
Walking Tour of Óbidos:
There is an aqueduct just outside the city walls.
Aqueduct outside the city walls
Main gate
Inside the gate, pause to gaze up at the scenes related to the town’s history – blue tiles depicting centuries of battles and religion – Tiles like these covered the entire face of the walls here until the 1755 earthquake shook most of them down.
Tiled balcony of the main gate – Photo: obidosportugaltourism.com
Exiting main gate
Two cobblestone paths after entrance – went to the right
Rua Josefa d’Óbidos:
Along this restaurant row, notice the whitewash that keeps things cool; the bright blue-and-yellow trims, traditionally designed to define property lines; and the potted geraniums, which bloom most of the year, survive the summer well, and keep mosquitos away.
Views from Rua Josefa d’Óbidos on the right
Church of St. Peter (Igreja de São Pedro):
It was reformed in the second half of the sixteenth century, like other churches in the village, from which the main classicizing portal survives, the baptismal chapel at the entrance to the Gospel side, covered by a small reticulated dome resting on conch tubs, and the helical staircase of the tower bell very affected by the earthquake of 1755, stands out in its interior, of unique ship, the magnificent baroque altarpiece of gilded carving of the Johannine period.
This church, was mostly destroyed and then rebuilt due to the 1755 earthquake.
Church of St. Peter (Igreja de São Pedro)
The old painting from the altarpiece – St. Peter receiving the keys of heaven from Christ – from the late seventeenth or early eighteenth century, is now found on the side wall of the Epistle.
It has a fine, restored Baroque altar covered with Brazilian gold leaf.
Baroque altar covered with Brazilian gold leaf
Side chapel
Side chapel
The Maltese-type crosses carved into the rock throughout the church are a constant reminder that his fine building was “brought to you by your friends in the Order of Christ”.
Maltese-type crosses – Order of Christ
Across from the Church of St. Peter is…
St. Martin’s Chapel:
St. Martin’s Chapel
Climb uphill to the main tourist drag, where you’ll turn right on…
Rua Direita:
Walking toward the castle on this main shopping drag, you’ll pass typical shops, a public WC, and the small Municipal Museum, not worth the admission fee unless you enjoy stairs, religious art, and Portuguese descriptions.
Municipal museum
Town Square – 16th century pillory
Church of St. Mary (Igreja de Santa Maria):
Mother Church (Igreja Matrix) of Óbidos, located in the square of the same name, this is the main temple of Óbidos.
This church was the setting for the wedding of King Afonso V to his cousin, Princess Isabella of Coimbra, on August 14, 1441, when they were both still children aged 9 and 10, respectively.
Church of St. Mary (Igreja de Santa Maria)
Interior of the church
Notice the fine painted-wood ceiling over each of the three naves.
Painted-wood ceiling
Main altar
To the left of the altar is a niche with a delicate Portuguese Renaissance tomb, featuring a pietà carved out of local limestone.
Pietà carved out of local limestone
To the right of the altar are five paintings, including at the top, The Mystical Marriage of St. Catherine (with the smaller side panels of St. Theresa and St. Francis) – below are paintings of St. Catherine disputing with the Philosophers (who were sent to convert her by the Emperor) and on the right The Destruction of the Wheel (on which she was to be tortured), all by Óbidos’ most famous artist, the nun Josefa d’Óbidos (1634 – 1684).
St. Catherine Paintings
Church of Our Lady of Mercy (Igreja de Misericórdia):
The Holy Chapel of the Holy Spirit, now the Church of Our Lady of Mercy (Igreja de Misericórdia) was founded by Queen D. Leonor at the Holy House of Mercy of Óbidos, according to tradition, still in 1498.
Church of Our Lady of Mercy (Igreja de Misericórdia)
The interior, of a single nave, is integrally covered with blue and yellow tiles of standard type (c.1625-30).
The altarpiece of the chancel, by the engraver Manuel das Neves at the risk of João da Costa, has two great paintings by André Reinoso – the Visitation of the Virgin to Saint Elizabeth and Pentecost, from about 1628-1630.
Interior of the church
Return to the main street and turn right for the…
Final Stretch to the Castle:
Final stretch to the castle
Pasteleria Dom Afonso:
This welcoming little coffee bar, dominated by an old grape press, serves good pastries and sandwiches
Pasteleria Dom Afonso
Chocolataria Prazer e Vicio:
This little sweet shop is a nice break from our walking.
Bar Ibn Errik Rex:
This is the most characteristic indoor spot to sip ginjinha – Bruno will take good care of you, with a backdrop of his dad’s extensive, 30-year-old collection of liquor bottles
Bar Ibn Errik Rex
The main drag (Rua Direita) ends at a big, white church – but it’s not a church anymore… Step inside and find a…
Big white church at the end of Rua Direita
Bookstore (Livraria de Santiago):
This huge and inviting bookstore, with giant shelves filling the nave and apse, and a good selection of English books, looks way-out-of-place in this church.
Bookstore (Livraria de Santiago)
Enjoy the views from the castle of the town.
View of the town from the castle
Other pictures of the town of Óbidos