April 11, 2019:
Braga Overview:
Braga is a wonderful tourist destination that combines history and culture, with numerous outstanding tourist attractions.
The city is often regarded as the religious center of Portugal, and this is confirmed every hour when a cacophony of different church bells ring-out.
Bells ring out every hour – Photo: Google Arts & Culture
Braga is home to the oldest cathedral in Portugal, and a day’s sightseeing can provide a glimpse into the importance and extensive history of the city.
Oldest Cathedral in Portugal
Within the maze of narrow streets, Gothic churches back onto modern shopping streets and grand baroque buildings surround peaceful plazas.
Gothic and Baroque mix with modern – Photo: Porto-North-Portugal
Even though Braga is the third largest city of Portugal, it does not have a hectic pace or crowded atmosphere, and is a joy to explore.
Large city with a small city atmosphere – Wikimedia – Snitrom
As an important city, Braga has the services, choices and nightlife of a major city, along with a young and vibrant population, as home to one of Portugal’s largest universities.
University of Minho – Flickr – Luis Coixao
Along with being an enthralling city, Braga is also the setting for one of the finest monuments of Northern Portugal, the Bom Jesus do Monte – This beautiful church and much-famed baroque staircase, which depict the ascent to heaven, are only a 5 km bus ride from the city and are a must for any trip to Braga.
Bom Jesus do Monte – Photo: Andrew Petcher
From the summit of the Bom Jesus hill, there are great views over Braga, and the surrounding park offers relaxed forested walks – For those who don’t fancy the steep pilgrimage hike up to the church there is the world’s oldest water-powered funicular.
Funicular – Photo: Porto-North-Portugal
Braga is a highly recommended day trip from Porto, and is easy to travel to, by being connected to the Porto Urban railway – This day trip is broken down into; 1-hour train ride from/to Porto (each way), 3-5 hours in the historic center, 2 hours at the Bom Jesus do Monte and 30 minutes for lunch in the historic center.
Porto Urban Railway – Photo: Porto-North-Portugal
Braga may be the religious center of Portugal, but the city offers more sights than just endless ancient churches – The historic center is fully pedestrianized and comprises of charming plazas, busy shopping streets, and pretty formal gardens.
Charming plazas, busy shopping streets and pretty formal gardens – Wikimedia – Gabriele Iuvara
The city gardens, including the, Jardim da Avenida Central and the Jardim de Santa Bárbara, while each of the main plazas (Largo de Santa Cruz, Largo São João do Souto and the Praça Conde de Agrolongo) has its own unique style and character.
Jardim de Santa Bárbara – Wikimedia
Braga is a labyrinth of narrow streets, each one concealing historic sights, unique monuments or traditional family-run businesses – Braga is a destination to explore on foot and simply get lost in.
Labryrinth of narrow streets – Photo: Road Unraveled
History of Braga
Pre-Romans:
Human occupation of the region of Braga dates back thousands of years, documented by vestiges of monumental structures in the region starting in the Megalithic era.
Mamoa de Lamas Megalith, Lamas Parish, Braga – Wikimedia
During the Iron Age, the castro culture extended into the northwest, characterized by Bracari peoples who occupied the high ground in strategically located fortified settlements (castrum).
Castro / castrum carvalhelhos, North Portugal – Photo: Pinterest
The region became the domain of the Callaici Bracarii, or Bracarenses, a Celtic tribe who occupied what is now northern Portugal, Galicia and Asturias in the northwest of Iberia.
The Fonte do Ídolo (Fountain of the Idol), in Braga – Wikimedia
Roman Rule:
The Romans began their conquest of the region around 136 BC, and finished it, by pacifying the northern regions, during the reign of Emperor Augustus.
Emperor Augustus – Wikipedia
The civitas (city) of Bracara Augusta was founded in 20 BC; in the context of the administrative reorganization of these Roman acquisitions, Bracara was rededicated to the Emperor taking on the name Bracara Augusta.
Termas de Maximinos (Roman Baths of Maximinus),
Bracara Augusta – Wikipedia
The city of Bracara Augusta developed greatly during the 1st century and reached its maximum extension around the 2nd century.
Bracara Augusta
Towards the end of the 3rd century, the Emperor Diocletian promoted the city to the status of capital of the administrative area Conventus bracarensis, the southwestern area of the newly founded Roman province of Gallaecia.
Gallaecia, after the reorganization of Diocletian, AD 298
Braga in Late Antiquity and Middle Ages:
During the Germanic Invasions of the Iberian Peninsula, the area was conquered by the Suebi, a Germanic people from Central Europe – In 410, the Suebi established a kingdom in northwest Iberia covering what is present-day’s northern half of Portugal, Galicia and Asturias, which they maintained as Gallaecia, and had Bracara as their capital – This kingdom was founded by Hermeric and lasted for over 150 years.
Kingdom of the Suebi (Regnum Suevorum) 409–585
By about 584, the Visigoths took over control of Gallaecia from the Suebi – They renounced the Arian and Priscillianist heresies during two synods held here in the 6th century – As a consequence, the Archbishops of Braga later claimed the title of Primate of Portugal, then the County, and for a long period, claimed supremacy over the entire Hispanic church – Yet, their authority was never accepted throughout Hispania.
Map of the kingdom of Gallaecia
Braga had an important role in the Christianization of the Iberian Peninsula – The first known bishop of Braga, Paternus (Paterno II), lived at the end of the 4th century and beginning of the 5th, although Saint Ovidius (d. 135 AD) is sometimes considered one of the first bishops of this city.
Paterno II of Braga, d. 407
Statue of Saint Ovidius in Braga’s Cathedral Cloister – Wikimedia – Joseolgon
In the early 5th century, Paulus Orosius (a friend of Augustine of Hippo) wrote several theological works that expounded the Christian faith, while in the 6th century Bishop Martin of Braga converted the originally pagan Suebi and Visigoths from Arianism to Catholicism – At the time, Martin also founded an important monastery in Dumio (Dume), and it was in Braga that the Archbishopric of Braga held its councils.
St. Martin of Braga (Dume)
The transition from Visigothic reigns to the Muslim conquest of Iberia was very obscure, representing a period of decline for the city – The Moors briefly captured Braga early in the 8th century, but were repelled by Christian forces under Alfonso III (the Great) of Asturias in 868 with intermittent attacks until 1040 when they were definitely ousted by Fernando I of León and Castile.
Alfonso III flanked by his queen, Jimena (left),
and his bishop, Gomelo II (right)
(Libro de los Testamentos, c. 1118)
As a consequence, the bishopric was restored in 1070: the first new bishop, Pedro I (Peter) (reigned 1071 – 1093), started rebuilding the Cathedral (which was modified many times during the following centuries).
Between 1093 and 1147, Braga became the residential seat of the Portuguese court – In the early 12th century, Count Henrique of Portugal and Bishop Geraldo de Moissac reclaimed the Archbishopric seat for Braga, with power over a large area in Iberia.
Saint Geraldo in Saint Geraldo Chapel, Braga, Cathedral – Photo: Wikipedia
The medieval city developed around the cathedral, with the maximum authority in the city retained by the Archbishop.
Braga in the Kingdom of Portugal:
Braga as the main center of Christianity in Iberia, during the Reconquista (until the emergence of Santiago de Compostela, Spain and, later, the conquest of Toledo, Spain from the Muslims, in 1085), held a prominent stage in medieval politics.
Alfonso VI Conquest of Toledo, Spain from the Muslims, 1085
Braga was a major factor/contributor to the independence of Portugal with the intervention of the Archbishop D. Paio Mendes in the Vatican and the Pope Alexander III, which lead to the promulgation of the Papal Bull Manifestis Probatum in 1179 recognizing Portugal as an independent Kingdom under D. Afonso Henriques I, its first King.
The papal bull Manifestis Probatum
The following centuries marked a slow decline in its prestige and influence marked by the infamous theft of the Holy Relics of Braga (including those of Saint Martin of Dume) by the then Archbishop of Santiago de Compostela, Diego Gelmirez during a visit to Braga – the relics only returned to Braga in the 1960s.
Archbishop of Santiago de Compostela, Diego Gelmirez
In the 16th century, due to its distance from the coast and provincial status, Braga did not profit from the adventures associated with the Age of Portuguese Discoveries (which favored cities like Lisbon, Évora and Coimbra, seats of the Portuguese court).
A 16th-century map of Braga, enclosed by medieval wall
A 17th-century engraving of Braga, showing the walls of the city
Yet, Archbishop Diogo de Sousa, who sponsored several urban improvements in the city, including the enlargement of streets, the creation of public squares and the foundation of hospitals and new churches, managed to modernize the community.
Archbishop Diogo de Sousa
He expanded and remodeled the cathedral by adding a new chapel in the Manueline style, and generally turning the mediaeval town into a Renaissance city.
New Manueline Chapel – Photo: Wikiwand
A similar period of rejuvenation occurred during the 18th century, when the Archbishops of the House of Braganza contracted architects like André Soares and Carlos Amarante, to modernize and rejuvenate the city; they began a series of architectural transformations to churches and civic institutions in the Baroque style, including the municipal hall, public library, the Sanctuary of Bom Jesus do Monte and many urban palaces.
18th century rejuvenation of Bom Jesus do Monte – Photo: Travelocity
With the invasion of French troops, during the Peninsular Wars (1807 – 1814) the city was relegated, once again, to a provincial status – But, by the second half of that century, with influence from Portuguese immigrants living in Brazil, new money and tastes resulted in improvements to architecture and infrastructures.
Portuguese and British regiments pursuing the retreating French army
at the Second Battle of Porto, 1809
The city is on the Portuguese path of the pilgrimage route of the Camino de Santiago (Way of St. James) to Santiago de Compostela, in Spain.
Portuguese Way of Santiago (St. James) de Compostela – Photo: Portugal Green Walks
Self-Guided Walking Tour of the Historic Center of Braga:
From the Braga train station, we headed north and turned right on Rua Andrandre Corvo, a nondescript residential street. We saw on the right, before entering the city gate, a house with a pretty fountain out in front, the…
Casa Grande do Campo das Hortas:
Built in the 18th century and classified as a property of public interest since 1976, this house has belonged to the Cunha Reis family for over 200 years, and is now available for rent for social and cultural events with rooms for short stays.
Casa Grande do Campo das Hortas
Fonte do Campo das Hortas:
In 1594, Archbishop Frei Agostinho de Jesus ordered his favorite master mason, Manuel Luís, to build a grand and decorated granite fountain at the eastern end of Campo de Santa Ana (current Avenida Central). In 1865, it was dismantled and moved to the Praça do Comércio and in 1914 it was transferred to its current location at Campo das Hortas. It is a Mannerist style fountain, with a pyramidal system slimming in height, with two overlapping bowls.
Fonte do Campo das Hortas
Macedo & Companhia:
On our left before entering the city gate, Nancy found a gallery with the kind of souvenirs she collects…
Macedo & Companhia gallery
Now, going straight ahead, we were able to enter the…
Arco da Porta Nova (Arch of New Gate):
At the edge of the historic center, this gate is the western entrance to the historic city – it is a Baroque and Neoclassical arch, designed by André Soares in the late 18th century.
Arco da Porta Nova (Arch of New Gate)
It was King Fernando I who eventually completed the wall of city of Braga around 1373, a project begun during the reign of one of his predecessors, King Denis I, a project that called for a Torre da Porta Nova (Tower of the New City Gate).
King Fernando I of Portugal,
(reigned January 18, 1367 – October 22, 1383)
Around 1505, and lasting to 1532, Archbishop Diogo de Sousa had people working on the construction of the Porta Nova (New Gate).
Coat-of-arms of Diogo de Sousa, Archbishop of Braga,
Braga Cathedral
This triumphal arch was opened in 1512 and, sometime in the 17th century, Archbishop José de Bragança, ordered the reconstruction of the Arco da Porta Nova, to include the extension of Rococo decoration.
José of Braganza, Archbishop of Braga
(b. 1703, d. 1756)
As part of the gate’s reconstruction (1772–1773), a statue representing the city of Braga was removed from the Edifício das Arcadas and installed on the arch of the new gate (around 1772).
Statue representing the city of Braga installed around 1772
The following year the new Archbishop, Gaspar de Bragança (son of King João V of Portugal, and Madalena Máxima de Miranda, a nun), ordered the transformation of the tower of the Porta Nova, to a triumphal arch in the Baroque style
Since then, this triumphal arch has been traditionally used to present the city’s keys to dignitaries and celebrities.
The Eastern façade of the Arco da Porta Nova with the image of Our Lady of Nazareth
Just past the gate, we had breakfast at the (now permanently closed) The Cheesecake Story…
The Cheesecake Story
Soon after, we turned right on Rua Dom Frei Caetano Brandão, then left on Rua Dom Paia Mendes-Salamanca Camino. On this street, we had a fun photo op at the Origem Café (now permanently closed)…
Nancy and Georgia and friends at the Origem Café
Other curiosities on Rua Dom Paia Mendes-Salamanca Camino
Straight ahead we could see the famous cathedral of Braga.
Cathedral of Braga
Sé de Braga (Cathedral of Braga):
Construction on the cathedral was resumed and lasted until the middle of the 13th century, but the details are obscure – The original 12th century-building was built in the Burgundian Romanesque style of the monastery church of Cluny.
This cathedral influenced many other churches and monasteries in Portugal in that period – In later times the cathedral was greatly modified, so that today it is a mix of Romanesque, Gothic, Moorish, Manueline and Baroque styles.
Particularly important were the addition of new adjacent chapels and the entrance gallery in Gothic style, the new Manueline main chapel, and the various additions in Baroque times like the towers, chapels and much of the inner decoration.
Sé de Braga (Cathedral of Braga)
Hours and Cost: Open daily, 9:30 am – 12:30 pm; 2:30 pm – 5:30 pm (6:30 pm in Summer) – Free – there small fee to see the Museum and Treasury (€3) and a separate fee (€2) to take a guided tour of the High Choir (Coro Alto); Chapel Tombs and certain adjacent chapels:
1. Capela dos Reis (Chapel of the Kings);
2. Capela da Nossa Senhora da Glória (Chapel of Our Lady of Glory); and
3. Capela de São Geraldo (Chapel of St. Gerard).
Plan of the Cathedral of Braga
History of the Cathedral of Braga
The cathedral is the oldest in Portugal, and the Gothic facade reflects this age – Built in the 12th century by the Count of Portugal, D. Henrique of Burgundy, and the Countess, D. Teresa of Léon, the parents of the first Portuguese king, D. Afonso Henriques I or known simply as, Afonso I.
Count of Portugal, D. Henrique of Burgundy
Following the Count of Portugal’s demise, D. Teresa of Léon was chased out of town by her own son, D. Afonso Henriques because of an illicit love affair with the Galician nobleman Fernando Pérez de Traba.
Countess of Portugal, D. Teresa of Léon
D. Afonso Henriques had the support of the Portuguese nobility and clergy in this exile of his mother, who were concerned about a Galician alliance with the Countess, and the son and his group of supporters even defeated her at the Battle of São Mamede in 1128.
Statue of D. Afonso Henriques, Guimarães – Photo: conversamos
After the defeat, the Countess was led, along with her lover, the Count of Traba and their children, into exile in the kingdom of Galicia, near the Portuguese border, where Traba had founded the Monastery of Toxos Outos – Teresa died soon afterwards in 1130.
But in death the Count and Countess of Portugal are reunited in adjoining tombs in the Chapel of the Kings (Capela dos Reis), here at this Braga Cathedral.
Google Street View – Adjoining tombs of the Count and Countess of Portugal
in the Chapel of the Kings (Capela dos Reis) at Braga Cathedral
Before entering the Cathedral, we took a walk to look around its south and east exterior…
South Exterior:
In the exterior courtyard facing the south façade of the Cathedral, there is installed a memorial wall for all the Archbishops of Braga (Monumento aos Arcebispos de Braga).
Memorial wall for all the Archbishops of Braga
South façade of the Cathedral
The evocative monument to the Archbishops of Braga, inaugurated in 2002, was the winner of a public competition, promoted by the Chamber of Braga.
Designed by the sculptor José Pacheco and the architect Ramalhete Barbosa, the monument comprises a gigantic bronze structure, where several images alluding to the archbishops are represented, symbolizing and evoking the representative action of the Archbishops of Braga throughout history.
Monumento aos Arcebispos de Braga (Monument to the Archbishops of Braga)
In the center, there is an iron episcopal cross, six meters high, and next to it, a female bronze statue, which represents the Allegorical image of the City of Braga.
Allegorical image of the City of Braga holding a crozier (bishop’s staff) and a church
On the side wall, forming an “L”, there are 17 coats of arms that correspond to the municipalities that make up the Archdiocese of Braga.
17 Coats of Arms that correspond to the municipalities that make up the Archdiocese of Braga
The Diocese of Braga
The Diocese of Braga dates from the 3rd century AD, being one of the oldest in the peninsula and the center for the Christianization of Gallaecia (Northwestern Iberia) – When Roman power was being dissolved by invading Germanic tribes, Braga (then called Bracara Augusta) became the capital of the Suevi Kingdom (409 to 584).
Bishop Martin of Dumio (Dume), a great religious figure of the time, converted the Suevi to Catholicism around 550 – The importance of Braga diminished during Visigoth times, and after the arrival of the Moors (716) the city lost its bishopric…until the 11th century.
Image of St. Martin of Dume in a 10th-century manuscript
The bishopric of Braga was restored around 1071, after the city was back into Christian hands, and Bishop Pedro started to build a cathedral, consecrated in 1089 (only the eastern chapels were finished).
Starting in 1093, the County of Portugal was ruled by Count Henrique of Burgundy who, together with Bishop Geraldo de Moissac, managed to convince the Pope to turn Braga into an archbishopric in 1107.
Alfonso VI of León and Castile appoints Henrique of Burgundy
to the County of Portugal, in 1096
The Archbishop of Braga had power over a large region in Northwestern Iberia, including most of Portugal and part of Galicia, in today’s Spain.
East Exterior:
While difficult to see due to buildings crowding up against the Cathedral on the east side, the east exterior has some interesting things to see, including the gargoyles and ornamentation surrounding the exterior of the main chapel of the apse, rebuilt in 1509 under Archbishop Diogo de Sousa and designed by the Basque architect João de Castilho. This exterior has beautiful late Gothic and Manueline tracery with gargoyles and pinnacles, matched in the interior of the main chapel by intricate ribbed vaulting.
East exterior of the Cathedral – notice the ornamentation and the gargoyles above
Detail of ornamentation, gargoyles – main chapel of the apse
On the back wall of the exterior of the main chapel of the apse, there is a beautiful early-16th century statue of the Madonna breastfeeding Jesus (Madona do Leite – Madonna of the Milk) between the coat-of-arms of Portugal and of Bishop Diogo de Sousa, sponsor of the Manueline renovation.
Madona do Leite – Madonna of the Milk statue between coats of arms of Portugal and of Bishop Diogo de Sousa
Across from the Southeastern corner of the Cathedral, mounted on a building, is a small shrine dedicated to Jesus.
Small shrine across the street from the Cathedral
From here, we backtracked to the main entrance of the Cathedral, the west exterior…
West Exterior:
The original Romanesque Western façade of the Cathedral of Braga has been totally suppressed, except for some archivolts and capitals of the main portal, heavily decorated with animal and human sculptured reliefs.
West Exterior
Between 1486 and 1501, an entrance gallery (galilee) in late Gothic style was built preceding the main portal – The galilee has ribbed vaulting and is decorated with statues and gargoyles, the gargoyles were used for spouts so rain wouldn’t ruin the side of the buildings.
West entrance gallery (galilee)
The beautiful Manueline metal gate was originally in the interior of the cathedral, but was moved to the galilee in the 18th century – In the early 16th century, Archbishop Diogo de Sousa modified the main Romanesque portal, sacrificing the inner archivolts.
Manueline gate in the galilee
The upper part of the Western façade and towers were totally modernized in the 18th century and are unremarkable.
Upper walls and Towers – West Exterior
We’re now ready to enter the Cathedral…
Nave:
Braga Cathedral’s nave has three aisles covered by a wooden ceiling, a transept and five chapels located in the apse – None of the chapels is original Romanesque anymore: the main chapel is Manueline, while the others are heavily decorated in Baroque style.
The nave is essentially Romanesque thanks to a “purifying” reform in the 20th century that suppressed most later additions, although most original capitals of the columns have been lost.
Nave – Photo: global-geography.org
Google Street View – Cathedral entryway ceiling
As you enter into the nave, look up and see the organ and high choir.
Organ and High Choir (Coro Alto) overhead
Take a few steps into the nave and look up again.
Google Street View – High Choir and Organ from the nave
Google Street View – High Choir (Coro Alto) and Organ viewed from the Main Chapel
Ornamentation on columns
Statues of the apostles line the left and right aisles of the Cathedral.
Left aisle of the nave
Left aisle chapel
Right aisle of the nave
Statue of Saint Peter
Right aisle chapel – Wikimedia – Joseolgon
Side Chapels
The main chapel is roofed with stone rib vaulting and its walls are decorated with a 14th-century statue of the Virgin Mary (Nossa Senhora de Braga).
Main chapel with choir and high altar
Main chapel and high altar – Wikipedia
During the remodeling of the chapel, Archbishop Diogo de Sousa also commissioned a stone altar, but most of it has been lost – The part still preserved is used as an altar table and has beautiful reliefs of Christ and the Apostles.
Altar table with beautiful reliefs of Christ and the Apostles – Photo: Arquidiocese de Braga
D. Afonso, son of King D. João I, is buried in a 15th-century tomb made of bronze, which can be seen in the right front corner (southwest corner) of the entry portal.
Google Street View – Tomb of D. Afonso, 1st Duke of Bragança, son of King D. João I
In the left front corner (northwest corner) of the entry portal there is a simple baptismal font.
Google Street View – Baptismal Font
Sacristy – To the right of the main altar, in the right transept, is the sacristy – The sacristy is of a somewhat earlier period, and served as inspiration for the work done in the first decades of the eighteenth century.
Designed in 1698 by João Antunes, the sacristy is a work of rupture and absolute novelty for the region of Braga at this time, and in its construction worked Manuel Fernandes da Silva, later responsible for the remodeling of the chapels of the transept.
Sacristy – Photo: VisitPortugal
High Choir (Coro Alto):
A separate ticket is required, and a guided tour, to visit the magnificent High Choir (Coro Alto) and the Chapel Tombs, as well as the chapels adjacent to the Cathedral.
The high choir was added near the entrance of the cathedral, overlooking the nave, in the Baroque period.
High Choir (Coro Alto) – Clock always set at 3 pm (time of the death of Jesus)
This High Choir is beautifully decorated with a painted ceiling and sculptured gilt wood (talha dourada).
Ceiling above High Choir
The Neo-Gothic choir stalls were executed around 1737 by Miguel Francisco da Silva.
High Choir Stalls
Archbishop’s Chair – High Choir Stalls
Looking out at the nave from the high choir stalls
Organ and ceiling – Photo: JapanVisitor.com
Organ ceiling – depiction of the marriage of the Saint Anne and Saint Joseph – Photo: veronikasadventure.com
In front of the High Choir there are two gilt wood organs, carved by renowned sculptor Marceliano de Araújo in the 1730s, heavily decorated with baroque and fantastic motifs – These are among the most impressive gilt wood works in all of Portugal.
View of the organ from the High Choir
View of the nave from up above
Chapel Tombs (Tombs of the Archbishops of Braga):
The tombs of the Archbishops of Braga are located off the Cloister, next door to the entrance to the Chapel of Piety (accessed as part of a guided tour).
Google Street View – Entrance to Chapel Tombs
Chapel Tombs – Photo: andarilho.pt
Recent Archbishop Tomb of D. Eurico Dias Nogueira
Archbishops’ Tombs
The Chapels Adjacent to the Cathedral:
These chapels include the Chapel of the Kings (Capela dos Reis), containing the stone tombs of Count Henrique (Henry) of Burgundy, and Countess Teresa of León, the parents of Portugal’s first king, Afonso Henriques I – In addition, the mummified remains of an early Archbishop of Braga, D. Lourenço Vicente, can also be seen here (see below).
The guided tour also includes the 14th century Chapel of Our Lady of Glory (Capela da Nossa Senhora da Glória) with the walls painted with Moorish-style geometric designs and containing the magnificent Renaissance carved stone tomb of Archbishop Gonçalo Pereira; and the azulejo-lined Chapel of St. Gerard (Capela de São Geraldo) next door (see below).
Capela dos Reis (Chapel of the Kings):
This Chapel was built around 1374 in the place where Count Henrique and Countess Teresa, parents of the first Portuguese King, Afonso Henriques I, were buried – Their tombs were substituted in the early 16th century by new ones, with recumbent figures.
Tomb of Teresa of Léon, Countess of Portugal
Tomb of Henrique of Burgundy, Count of Portugal
Adjoining tombs – Count Henrique and Countess Teresa of Portugal
There is a small altar close by the tombs of the Count and Countess with a crucifix hung above.
Small altar in the Capela dos Reis (Chapel of the Kings)
Statue next to the small altar
In addition, the mummified remains of an early Archbishop of Braga, D. Lourenço Vicente, can also be seen here.
Google Street View – Tomb of D. Lourenço Vicente
Mummified remains of Archbishop of Braga, D. Lourenço Vicente
Statues behind D. Lourenço Vicente tomb
Capela da Nossa Senhora da Glória (Chapel of Our Lady of Glory):
This Gothic chapel was built between 1326 and 1348 to be the resting place for Archbishop Gonçalo Pereira – He commissioned a magnificent tomb for himself to sculptors Master Pero, an Aragonese, and Telo Garcia, a Portuguese.
Archbishop Gonçalo Pereira tomb – Capela da Nossa Senhora da Glória (Chapel of Our Lady of Glory)
The tomb, guarded by six stone lions, has the life-size statue of the Archbishop, with his head resting over a pillow held by angels – The sides of the tomb are decorated with images of the apostles and clergymen.
Different views of the tomb of Archbishop Gonçalo Pereira
Slit windows
Our Lady of Glory
In the early 16th Century the chapel was painted with interesting geometrical motifs of Moorish influence, very similar to Sevillian tiles, now very faded.
Walls painted with Moorish influence
Capela de São Geraldo (Chapel of St. Gerard) – Saint Gerard is the patron saint of the City of Braga and is buried here in the cathedral – This Chapel was built in the twelfth century and had been remodeled a few times, highlighted by the gilded carving covered with gold leaves of Brazil.
Capela de São Geraldo (Chapel of St. Gerard) Main Altar
Statue of St. Gerard (Statua de São Geraldo)
This chapel also includes the tomb of the Archbishop D. Rodrigo de Moura Teles, in the middle of the gilded carving.
Tomb of the Archbishop D. Rodrigo de Moura Teles
There are also tombs in the floor.
Tombs in the floor
The walls are lined with typical blue-white azulejo tiles, dated 1712 and attributed to Antonio de Oliveira Bernardes, and give the history of the life of St. Gerard (São Geraldo), who was also an Archbishop of Braga.
Google Street View – Azulejos in the Chapel of St. Gerard
The azulejos give the history of the life of St. Gerard (São Geraldo)
Cloister:
The cloister is pretty nondescript…
The Cloister
Courtyard (Old Medieval Cloister):
There is a courtyard (Old Medieval Cloister) with artifacts located between the various chapels and the nave and Cloister.
Courtyard (Old Medieval Cloister)
Courtyard artifacts
Three old artifacts
Capela da Piedade (Chapel of Piety):
Also known as the Capela da Nossa Senhora da Piedade (Chapel of Our Lady of Piety), this chapel, adjoining the Cloister, was built by Archbishop Diogo de Sousa around 1513 – this Archbishop is buried in the chapel in a beautiful Renaissance tomb.
Entrance to the Chapel of Piety from the Cloister
The Chapel of Piety has a single nave, with several side chapels.
Capela da Piedade (Chapel of Piety) – Photo: Visit Portugal
Tomb of the Archbishop of Braga, Diogo de Sousa – Wikimedia – Manuelvbotelho
Google Street View – Altar
Our Lady of Piety – Close up – Flickr – Paula Luckhurst
Google Street View – Left Side Chapel
Not a pirate, but St. James the Apostle
Google Street View – Right side chapel
Igreja da Misericórdia de Braga (Church of Mercy of Braga):
In the North wall outside of the Cathedral but sharing an exterior wall, there is a small church, of early Romanesque design, that may be a remnant of a late 11th century building – This church was left outside of the final cathedral, perhaps due to a change of design in the 12th century.
This Church of Mercy is detailed in some Cathedral plans as an annex but in fact it is a distinct monument – the Church was rebuilt in 1562, and underwent substantial alteration in the 18th century.
Of somber decoration, there remain some fine examples of Renaissance architecture, in particular the principal façade (North) and the lateral entrance (East) with a scene from the “Visitation”, which is a fine example of the 15th century Coimbra school of sculpture.
The East lateral entrance is just outside and north of the Courtyard (Old Medieval Cloister) of the Cathedral.
Google Street View – Entrance off the Courtyard (Old Cloister) of the Cathedral of Braga
There is an interesting statuary of the Visitation over this east lateral entrance:
Statuary of the Visitation
Outside the East lateral entrance, stands a monument to the 500 years of service and solidarity of the Santa Casa da Misericórdia de Braga (Holy House of Mercy of Braga), (1513 – 2013).
500 year memorial – Wikimedia – Joseolgon
Closeup – Monument to 500 years of service and solidarity
There is also a plaque that describes the creators of the major elements of the Church of Mercy.
Memorial Plaque
North Entrance of the Church of Mercy
On the inside, there is the Baroque retable set and the ceiling is covered in painted wood – The retable was completed by Marcelino de Araújo between 1734 and 1739 and includes a panel painted by José Lopes in 1735.
Although this painting is religious in theme, there are various courtly features with family members of King D. João V, his Queen and children included.
On the main altar, there is also a depiction of Our Lady of Mercy, the work of sculptor José António Gonçalves, dated 1774.
Church of Mercy Interior – Flickr – Fernando Stankuns
Important Personalities related to Braga Cathedral:
Saint Peter of Rates (São Pedro de Rates): According to legend, he was the first bishop of Braga between 45 and 60, appointed by the Apostle Saint James the Great – His remains are supposedly kept in a side-chapel of the apse of the cathedral.
São Pedro de Rates – Bishop 45-60
Saint Martin of Dume (São Martinho de Dume) (c. 520-580): Bishop of Braga in the 6th century – Converted the Suevi to mainstream Christianity, he was noted for his wisdom and holiness.
St. Gregory of Tours says of St. Martin of Dume (Hist. Francia, V, xxxvii) that he was born in Pannonia, visited the Holy Land, and became the foremost scholar of his time – St. Isidore of Seville (“De Viris illustribus“, c. xxxv) tells us that:
“he was abbot of the monastery of Dumio near Braga, came to Gallaecia from the East, converted the Suevic inhabitants from the heresy of Arianism, taught them Catholic doctrine and discipline, strengthened their ecclesiastical organization, and founded monasteries
He also left a number of letters in which he recommended a reform of manners, a life of faith and prayer, and giving of alms, the constant practice of all virtues and the love of God“.
Statue of S. Martinho de Dume (St. Martin of Dume) – Wikimedia
Henrique, Count of Portugal (1066-1112): Henrique (Henry) was Count of Portugal from 1093 up to his death – He turned Braga into his capital and promoted the building of the cathedral – He is buried in a 16th-century tomb in the Chapel of the Kings.
Henrique of Burgundy, Count of Portugal
Teresa, Countess of Portugal (1080-1130): Teresa of León was married to Count Henrique in 1094 – Her 16th-century tomb is also located in the Chapel of the Kings.
Teresa of León, Countess of Portugal
Antipope Gregory VIII (d. 1137): Maurice Bourdin (Maurício Burdino) was the second Archbishop of Braga – Of French origin, he helped organize the diocese – He was involved in a dispute between Germanic Emperor Henry V and the Pope, and was elected (Anti)Pope as Gregory VIII by the Emperor’s followers.
Mauritius Burdinus (Antipope Gregory VIII), Archbishop of Braga
Pope John XXI (c. 1215-1277): Born in Lisbon as Pedro Julião, he was Archbishop of Braga in the 13th century – Elected Pope in 1276.
Pope John XXI
Diogo de Sousa (c. 1461-1532): Archbishop of Braga between 1505 and 1532, he modernized both the city and the cathedral – Buried in the Chapel of Mercy in the Cathedral.
D. Diogo de Sousa, Archbishop of Braga
Saint Ovidius (martyred 135 A.D.): third Bishop of Braga, buried in the cathedral – Ovidius (Portuguese: Santo Ovídio), also known as Saint Auditus, is a Portuguese saint – According to hagiographies of the 16th century, Ovidius was a Roman citizen of Sicilian origin.
Tradition states that he was sent to Braga by Pope Clement I, where he served as the city’s third bishop around 95.
Saint Ovidius is said to have baptized Saint Marina and her sisters after they were abandoned by their mother, and then brought them up in the Christian faith.
Santa Marina (St. Marina) (b. 119, d. 139),
by Francisco de Zurbarán
When Saint Marina and her sisters were twenty, they were accused of being Christians and brought before their father the governor – He recognized them as his own daughters, and asked them to renounce their faith, promising them luxuries.
The sisters refused and were imprisoned – They managed to escape and were ultimately martyred for their faith – A spring of water gushed out of the spot where they were beheaded; the spot was called Aguas Santas (“Holy Waters”).
The Portuguese use the name Santo Ovídio, and sometimes, the folkloric São Ouvido (literally “he who is heard” or “ear”), a folk-etymological translation of the Latin name Auditus; this name was then rendered as Ovídio.
Tomb of Saint Ovidio (Braga Cathedral) – Flickr – Antonio Barrero
Accounts of the 17th century assert that in Lusitanian archaeological sites, Saint Ovidius was depicted in episcopal robes or in the garments of a hermit; these depictions testify to an ancient veneration.
Because of his name, Saint Auditus or Ovidius was traditionally invoked against auditory diseases – Under the base of his sepulcher in the cathedral, there were two holes into which the deaf would slip their fingers – They would then place their fingers into their ears by way of intercession with this saint.
His feast day is June 3.
Festival of Saint Ovidio – Photo: Virtual Memories
We headed directly north from the Church of Mercy until we reached Town Hall Square (Jardim da Praça do Municipio), with, on the right, Braga Public Library (Biblioteca Pública de Braga); and on the left, Braga City Hall (Câmara Municipal Braga) and in the middle, Fonte do Pelicano.
Google Earth – Aerial View of Town Hall Square (Jardim da Praça do Municipio)
Town Hall Square (Jardim da Praça do Municipio):
In the second half of the sixteenth century, by order of Archbishop Frei Agostinho de Jesus, the square was opened in the then dominated quinta and hortas of the Paço Episcopal Bracarense (Braga Episcopal Palace).
Baptized as the Campo de Touros (Field of Bulls), the square for decades served for this purpose, the Portuguese bullfight. The importance of the town square would be enhanced by the construction of the new Domus Municipalis (Municipal Home) in 1753 – Since then, the old Plaza de Toros (Square of the Bulls) was renamed to the Town Hall Square.
In the following years, the Archbishop D. Gaspar de Bragança decided to gather in the square the several existing markets by the city – Thus the square became a large open-air market until 1878, when a pavilion was opened in the northern part of the square.
In 1915, the mayor, Albano Justino Lopes Gonçalves, after the demolition of the old pavilion, had built by João Moura Coutinho a large iron-covered market – Despite being an architectural example, the market did not fit the square, which would dictate its demolition in 1955.
Former Municipal Market, Demolished in the 1950s
In 1949 the chapel of Santo António da Praça was demolished, in the nascent top, to proceed to the opening of Rua Ulrich, the current Rua Eça de Queiroz.
Demolished chapel of Santo António da Praça
Later, Viriato Nunes as mayor placed in the center the Fonte do Pelicano (Pelican Fountain), and the square took on its current aspect, flanked by trees.
Fonte do Pelicano (Pelican Fountain) – Wikimedia – Gerd Eichmann
We started on the right side of the square…
Braga Public Library (Biblioteca Pública de Braga):
As early as 1751, Archbishop José de Bragança ordered a new wing of the Braga Episcopal Palace, currently the Public Library of Braga, built on this square, which gave it a great degree of symbolic importance.
Biblioteca Pública de Braga (Braga Public Library) – Wikimedia – José Goncalves
Biblioteca Pública de Braga (Braga Public Library)
As formerly part of the Braga Episcopal Palace, this Baroque building has a spectacular reading room and a luxurious wooden coffered ceiling that matches the desks. Open Monday – Friday, 9 am – 12:30 pm; 2 pm – 5:30 pm; Closed Saturday, Sunday, Free.
Reading Room – Photo: lavolteta
Then, we moved to the left…
The Town Hall (Casa da Câmara):
This is a baroque building from the 18th century designed by André Soares, with the doors and windows framed in granite decoration.
Town Hall (Casa da Câmara)
Inside, blue tile panels adorn the staircase to the second floor, in them we can see drawings of historical buildings of Braga, some of them already disappeared.
Blue tile panels on the staircase
Walk to the right of the Town Hall, turning right on Rua Dom Frei Caetano Brandão, then right on Praça Conselheiro Torres Almedia to reach the…
Convento/Igreja do Pópulo (Convent and Church of Populo):
The 16th century Convent and Church of Populo was built in 1596, on the orders of Archbishop D. Frei Agostinho de Jesus, as his burial monument – He passed away in 1609, with his remains transferred in 1628 to a wooden tomb, ordered by the city of Braga, and located in the main chapel of the Church.
Convento/Igreja do Pópulo (Convent and Church of Populo) – Photo: TripAdvisor
Manuel Gomes da Costa and Braga
The statue in front of the Convent/Church is a monument to Gomes da Costa (Monumento a Gomes da Costa), full name Manuel de Oliveira Gomes da Costa (commonly known as Manuel Gomes da Costa), a Portuguese army officer and politician, the tenth President of the Portuguese Republic and the second of the Ditadura Nacional (Military Dictatorship, from the May 28, 1926 coup d’état, until the Estado Novo or New State in 1933).
Manuel Gomes da Costa, Portuguese Army Officer – Wikipedia – Joseolgon
A convinced monarchist, Gomes da Costa had consorted with people of various political convictions – That, and his reputation as a soldier, led to his choice by right-wing revolutionaries to lead the May 28, 1926 coup d’état in Braga that overthrew the Portuguese First Republic, after General Alves Roçadas, their original choice, had died
Gomes da Costa and his troops march victorious into Lisbon on June 6, 1926
After the success of the revolution he did not assume power at first, entrusting the posts of President of the Republic and President of the Council of Ministers (Prime Minister) to José Mendes Cabeçadas, the leader of the revolution in Lisbon.
Soon the coup leaders disliked the attitude of Mendes Cabeçadas, a choice of the previous president Bernardino Machado and still sympathetic towards the old republic – He was replaced by Gomes da Costa in both posts in a meeting in Sacavém on June 17, 1926.
The new government was the first to include the later prime minister and dictator of Portugal, Antonio de Oliveira Salazar, as finance minister.
Gomes da Costa’s government lasted about as long as Cabeçadas’, because it was overthrown by a new coup on July 9 of the same year – This attempt was initiated by João José Sinel de Cordes and Óscar Carmona, after Gomes da Costa attempted to have Carmona removed as minister for foreign affairs.
Carmona, the new President of the Republic and of the Council of Ministers, used the pretext that Gomes da Costa was “unfit for office” and had him sent to exile in the Azores Islands – However, he also made him a Marshal of the Portuguese Army.
In September 1927, he returned to mainland Portugal, already very ill; he died a few months later.
Gomes da Costa, 10th President of the Republic of Portugal
The original Mannerist style of the Church underwent substantial change in the 18th century when the façade was rebuilt in a neo-classical style according to a design by Carlos Amarante – The church is dedicated to the Virgin after the Church of Saint Maria de Populo in Rome.
Church of Populo
The Church/Convent are open Tuesday – Friday, 9 am – 11:30 am; 3 pm – 5:30 pm – Free.
From the Church entrance, head east on Praça Conselheiro Torres Almeida, which turns into Praça Conde de Agrolongo, turn right on Rua de Santo António, and then left on Rua Eça de Queirós, and finally turn right on Rua Dr. Justino Cruz to see the…
Beautiful trees on the way
Antigo Paço Arquiepiscopal (Ancient Archbishop Palace) and Jardim de Santa Bárbara (Gardens of Santa Barbara):
These flowered Gardens of Santa Barbara overlook the Gothic wing of the Ancient Archbishop Palace – A major fire in 1834 burnt down a portion of the wing and all that remains are the stone arches.
Ancient Archbishop Palace ruins – Photo: Tourradar
Jardim de Santa Bárbara (Gardens of Santa Barbara)
We were hungry, so we walked right next door and enjoyed lunch at…
Pastelairia Lusitana:
This coffee shop has the prettiest gardens in Braga next door – Jardim de Santa Bárbara (Gardens of Santa Barbara) – Open Daily 8 am – 8 pm; R. Dr. Justino Cruz 127, 4700-317 Braga; +351 253 614 791.
Pastelairia Lusitana
History of the Ancient Archbishop Palace
The Bishopric of Bracara was founded in 388 by Paternus, who became the first bishop of Braga – Officially, the Archbishopric of Braga was founded in 1071, with D. Pedro its first Archbishop.
Between 1096 and 1112, Count D. Henrique and Countess D. Teresa were the masters of Braga, leading in 1112 to a letter donating the city to the Archbishops, instituting an ecclesiastical fiefdom that would last to the 18th century.
Count D. Henrique and Countess D. Teresa
D. Maurício Burdino became the first ecclesiastical master of Braga – On May 27, 1128, Archbishop D. Pai Mendes received a confirmation letter to expand church lands, along with the privilege to mint coin, in recompense for his support of D. Afonso Henriques’ revolt against his mother, the Countess D. Teresa (see “History of the Braga Cathedral” above).
Archbishop D. Pai Mendes
In 1327, King D. Afonso IV invaded the jurisdiction of then-Archbishop D. Gonçalo Pereira, grandfather of D. Nuno Álvares Pereira, nominating public notaries to the crown for Braga.
The Archbishop excommunicated and expelled these notaries from the city – This antagonism resulting from these acts never diminished, and in 1341, when regal authorities entered the new city, the Archbishop excommunicated them as well.
Tomb of Archbishop D. Gonçalo Pereira in the Cathedral of Braga
As a consequence, the Corregedor Afonso Domingues took the castle and municipal hall, which were much later returned to the Archbishop by King D. Afonso IV.
It was following this antagonism that the construction of the primitive archiepiscopal palace was begun, by Archbishop D. Gonçalo Pereira, in 1336.
Google Earth – Aerial View of the Ancient Episcopal Palace
In 1361, Archbishop D. João de Cardaillac, began to use the title of Arcebispo Primaz das Hespanhas (Archbishop Primate of the Hispanias).
In 1402, the Archbishop, D. Martinho Afonso de Miranda, ceded jurisdiction of the city to the Crown, in exchange for land rents and other concessions – At that time regulations obliged farmers and craftsmen to support the repair of the palace.
Archbishop D. Martinho Afonso de Miranda
Between 1422 and 1436, Archbishop D. Fernando da Guerra, great-grandson of D. Pedro I and D. Inês de Castro, ordered the reconstruction and expansion of the archiepiscopal structure, with Gil Vasques (carpenter), Fernão Martins (master of public works) and João Gonçalves (stonemason) steering the build – By 1439, the tower was concluded.
Torre do Paço
Archbishop D. Fernando da Guerra
In 1472, D. Afonso V restored to the Archbishop D. Luís Pires, the temporary jurisdiction of Braga and its surroundings to the Archbishopric, allowing the Archbishops to use the title Senhores de Braga e Primazes das Hespanhas (Masters of Braga and Primates of Hispania).
Yet, this détente was short lived; D. Fernão de Lima, a noble who lived in Braga, began a war with the Archbishop, resulting in various bloody skirmishes between the two factions – By 1478, the Duke of Braganza put an end to the battles between the Archbishop and Lima.
Between 1505 and 1532, Archbishop D. Diogo de Sousa ordered changes at the palace, including the erection of the Fonte dos Castelos, in the Largo do Paço, which lead to the 1545-1549 construction of the northern wing, by Archbishop D. Manuel de Sousa and the 1594 construction of the western wing in the Largo do Paço, by Archbishop D. Agostinho de Jesus.
Fonte dos Castelos, Largo do Paço
In 1709, Archbishop D. Rodrigo de Moura Teles expanded the building, altering the facades of wings oriented to the Largo do Paço and erecting a chapel – Between 1740 and 1750, the Archbishop of D. José de Bragança, further expanded the palace, ordering the construction of the Baroque wing oriented to the municipal square.
Baroque Wing of the Episcopal Palace (Braga Public Library)
This was further enriched between 1758 and 1789, when Archbishop D. Gaspar de Bragança expanded the library, with an number of notable documents.
In the second half of the 19th century, Archbishop D. Miguel da Madre de Deus da Cruz and his cortege installed himself in the archiepiscopal palace, spending his time in Braga at the bullfights in the municipal square.
By 1834, the Archbishops were confined to the wing overlooking the eastern edge of the Largo do Paço, as the prefecture of Minho is installed in the building, with much later the Civil Governor of Minho and offices of other services.
On 15 April 1866, there was a violent fire that destroyed the Baroque wing oriented towards the municipal square, in addition to the contents of the D. Gaspar de Bragança’s library, gutting his collection – By 1871, the ruins of the wing were demolished and the many of the stones collected.
1866 Fire Ruins
In the 20th century, portions of the Episcopal Palace were converted to other uses, including the University of Minho (Universidade do Minho).
University of Minho
And the Braga Public Library (Biblioteca Pública de Braga).
Braga Public Library (Biblioteca Pública de Braga)
We’ve completed our Braga Self-Guided Walking Tour, Part 1.
Braga Self-Guided Walking Tour, Part 2:
Continue south on Rua Dr. Justino Cruz until you reach Largo São João do Souto and the…
Capela dos Coimbras (Chapel of the Coimbras):
This Manueline chapel had its base in the ecclesiastical residence of the Coimbras family, and its patriarch D. João de Coimbra, who purchased their home in 1505.
Capela dos Coimbras (Chapel of the Coimbras)
The provider for the bishopric of Braga, João constructed the chapel between 1525 and 1528, under archbishop D. Diogo de Sousa.
The Capela dos Coimbras (Chapel of the Coimbras) consists of a rectangular tower, covered in ceiling tile, preceded by an enclosed portico or galilee supported by elegant Baroque columns with coat-of-arms of the Coimbras family.
Portico or galilee of the chapel – Wikimedia – Gerd Eichmann
View of chapel door through the portico
Access door to the chapel
Coat of arms of the Coimbras family – Wikimedia – Gerd Eichmann
Figures on the chapel – Wikimedia – Gerd Eichmann
Lion on the chapel – Wikipedia
The tower is highlighted by a semi-circular tower window and corbels with baldachins.
Virgin and child on the chapel tower – Wikimedia – Gerd Eichmann
Top of the tower – Wikimedia – Gerd Eichmann
Virgin Mary with child on Tower
Figures on tower
The chapel is also known as the Capela de Nossa Senhora da Conceição (Chapel of Our Lady of Conception) or Capela do Senhor Morto (Chapel of Our Dead Lord).
The interior ceiling is covered with a ribbed vault and golden rosettes, centered on the arms of House of Lancaster.
Vaulted ceiling – Wikipedia
The high altar is covered in sculptures, located within niches on corbels with awnings.
A rounded arch, with the arms of the founder, protects access to the main tomb.
Altar – Photo: guiadaminhacidade.blogspot.com
The main tomb – Photo: guiadaminhacidade.blogspot.com
The walls are decorated in azulejo tile with figures from the creation of the world, while the pavement is covered in tomb slabs.
The azulejo tile showing figures of God, Adam and Eve – Photo: Wikipedia
Another azujelo tile – Photo: guiadaminhacidade.blogspot.com
Artists from Biscay were contracted to complete the project while they were working in the medieval city, that included the Biscainhos Palace. These included Filipe Odarte, who was responsible for the main church, and sculptures by Hodart (exterior carvings) and João de Ruão (retable and tomb sculptures), as well as the family coat-of-arms of D. Diogo de Sousa (in the portico).
In 1530, a brotherhood was instituted to support the services in the chapel.
It is likely that this chapel was an annex or extension of the adjoining primitive Church of São João do Souto, as one of the lateral chapels.
Church of São João do Souto alongside the Capela dos Coimbras (Chapel of the Coimbras)
Interior of the adjoining Church of São João do Souto – Wikimedia – Luiz Eugenio Teixeira Leite
Casa dos Coimbras (House of the Coimbras):
In 1906, the Palacete of the Coimbras was demolished, due to the redesign of urban space, creating the Largo São João do Souto – The Manueline elements were preserved and a new building was constructed opposite the road (the Casa dos Coimbras).
The new Casa dos Coimbras retained the windows and a few of the doors from the original structure, while modifying the structure of the Manueline building.
Walking to the Casa dos Coimbras (House of the Coimbras)
Casa dos Coimbras (House of the Coimbras) – Wikimedia – Vitor Oliveira
Windows
Around the corner from the Casa das Coimbros is the…
Igreja de Santa Cruz (Church of the Holy Cross) – This church was built in the 17th century, in a Mannerist Baroque style, and has unusual gilded carving inside.
Igreja de Santa Cruz (Church of the Holy Cross)
In 1625 the Archbishop of Braga, Afonso Furtado de Mendonça, donated the land where the Church would be implanted, being initiated immediately to the works – The work of masonry was completed only in 1653, except for the towers, which were completed in 1694.
Archbishop of Braga, Afonso Furtado de Mendonça
Despite the slowness of the work, the structure of the Church soon began to show signs of ruin – So on November 16, 1731, the board of the Brotherhood of Holy Cross invited the master Manuel Fernandes da Silva, who was then employed to direct the works of Mafra, to repair the ravages of time.
Only in 1734 the whole body of the church was demolished, leaving only the facade (that would be remodeled by Carlos António Leone), having the other works completed in 1739.
Largo Carlos Amarante and Fonte Seiscentista do Largo Carlos Amarante – Photo: vecteezy.com
Exterior of the Church:
Exterior of the church – Wikimedia – John Samuel
The central part of the façade is divided in two registers, with finials in the pediment and fins – On the first level, four Doric columns corrugated with entablature, whose frieze presents, in relief, the instruments of the Passion of Christ, with the figure of the rooster at each end, evoking the denial of Peter.
The lower façade is torn by three portals, topped with the following inscriptions, from left to right (cf. Matthew 20: 18-19):
ECCE ASCENDIMVS IEROSOLYMAN – MAT XX
ET FILIVS HOMINIS
TRADETVR AD CRVCIFIGENDVM – MAT XX
On the second landing, four striated Ionic pilasters, with entablature interrupted by a telescope that extends to the pediment – have ornamental pictures (the sides of the top windows): in the center, the Holy Cross with glitter and two crossed masts; on the left side, a fruit tree (the tree of Paradise); on the right side, a palm tree with a royal crown.
Below, at the level of the pedestals, three inscriptions of verses of liturgical hymns that the pictures illustrate (to which adds the date of 1642, on the sides):
– Center: VEXILLA REGIS PRODEVNT / FVLGET CRVCIS MYSTERIVM
– Left side: IPSE LIGNVM TVNC NOTAVIT — ANNO
– Right side: REGNAVIT A LIGNO DE (VS) — MDCXXXXII
In the pediment, three medallions surround the oculus – The superior one has superimposed the stone of arms of King D. João VI , placed when this one, on the 11th of October of 1822, elevated the Brotherhood of Holy Cross to the category of Royal.
On the sides of the pediment, the inscriptions refer to the date of 1736: ANNO / MDCCXXXVI – To crown the whole, three sculptures: St. Helena supporting the Cross, flanked by two figures in genuflection, armor and mantle, with the scepter and crown at the feet (it is thought to represent the Emperor Constantine and King D. Afonso Henriques I).
Interior of the Church:
The nave, very high, is formed by a vaulted stone quarry – The interior of the church was the feature of Brother José de Santo António Vilaça.
Nave – Wikimedia – Joseolgon
Across the square is the…
Igreja de São Marcos (Church of St. Mark):
This church is owned by the Santa Casa da Misericórdia de Braga (Holy House of Mercy of Braga) – It was built in the 18th century with a project by the architect Carlos Amarante.
Igreja de São Marcos (Church of St. Mark)
Exterior of the Church:
The side bodies were designed and built by José Fernandes Graça, nicknamed the Landim and who was in charge of the work of masonry and sculpture outlined by the architect Carlos Amarante.
The statues on the exterior of the church represent São Simão (St. Simon), São Bartolomeu (St. Bartholomew), São Tiago Menor (St. James Minor), São João Evangelista (St. John the Evangelist), Santo André (St. Andrew), São Pedro (St. Peter), São Paulo (St. Paul), São Tiago Maior (St. James Major), São Tomé (St. Thomas), São Filipe (St. Philip), São Matias (St. Matthew) and São Lucas (St. Luke).
Statues on the Church of the Holy Cross – Photo: portugalemfoto.blogspot.com
Featured prominently in the center of the facade of the church is the statue of São Marco (Saint Mark), patron of this church and bishop of the Eastern Christian Church, at the time of Emperor Constantine.
Statue of St. Mark – Photo: portugalemfoto.blogspot.com
Interior of the Church:
The church has a single nave.
Nave – Flickr – ChihPing
Ceiling – Photo: andanho.blogs.sapo.pt
The Relics of the body of the Apostle and Bishop Saint Mark are found in this church to the veneration of the faithful.
Tomb of St. Mark – Wikimedia – Joseolgon
Mass Sunday, 10:25 am; Weekdays, 3:55 pm (other hours unknown).
Behind the Igreja de São Marcos (Church of St. Mark) is the blue-tiled…
Palácio do Raio (Palace of Raio):
The Palace of Raio is a Baroque-era residence ordered by João Duarte de Faria, a knight of the Order of Christ, who was a rich merchant.
Palácio do Raio (Palace of Raio)
The commission was given to André Soares in 1754–1755, an architect already famous in the Braga region for his local artistic and engineering projects (including the Sanctuary of Bom Jesus and the Church of Santa Maria Madalena da Falperra – he was also responsible for designing Braga Town Hall, the Convento dos Congregados, and the Arco da Porta Nova).
Soares reformulated the style first introduced to Porto by Nasoni, basing his interpretations on French-German sketches, “one of the expressions more distinct and powerful of the European Rococo“.
Designed by André Soares
His work is characterized by the monumental nature of its forms, and for his use of natural elements in the decorative sculptures that permeate the design including the shells, jars, wreaths and garlands.
Decorative Sculptures – Wikimedia – Sara silva
A century later, the residence was acquired by Miguel José Raio, then the Viscount of São Lázaro (in 1867), thus, over time, becoming known as the Palace of Raio.
In the interior, is the noble staircase, with three arches and sculpture of a Turk, comparable to the four statues in the esplanade of the Church of Bom Jesus, executed by masons José and António de Sousa.
Noble Staircase – Wikimedia – Joseolgon
Noble Staircase – Wikimedia – Joseolgon
There are also some beautiful ceilings and a skylight.
Ceiling – Raio Palace – TripAdvisor
Ceiling – Raio Palace – Wikimedia – Joseolgon
Skylight – Photo: guiaempresas.pt
The current owner of the Palace of Raio, the Santa Casa de Misericórdia de Braga (Holy House of Mercy of Braga), also has an Interpretive Center located in the Palace – In the Interpretive Center it is possible to observe the history of the multi-secular Holy House of Mercy of Braga, through thematic nuclei.
From sacred art, to painting, to sculpture and ceramics, to goldsmithing and archival documentation, the collection of the permanent exhibition is presented in an interactive and dynamic way, with ambient sound, videos and other elements that also allow to contemplate all the architectural beauty and building.
The visit begins with the evocation of two of the greatest symbols of Bracaran architecture: André Soares and Carlos Amarante – Then the visitor is invited to know the history of the Brotherhood and of the House of Mercy of Braga, focusing on the role played in assistance and support to those most in need.
And because to speak of the House of Mercy is also to speak of the Hospital of S. Marcos (Hospital of St. Mark), founded in 1508, the Interpretive Center shows articles related to the pharmacy and medical utensils of the old hospital – Also exhibited are documents from the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries that keep the past of the health care provided in the Hospital of S. Marcos.
Open Tuesday – Saturday, 10 am – 1 pm; 2:30 pm – 6:30 pm; Closed, Sunday, Monday.
Now make your way to a bus station… Take Rua do Raio northwest, then turn right on Av. de Liberdade and stop at the Liberdade (25 de Abril) bus stop.
This marks the end of Part 2 of our Braga Self-Guided Walking Tour. From here, we took the number 2 bus (alternatively, we could have taken an Uber) to…
Bom Jesus do Monte (“Good Jesus” of the Mountain):
Once the Bus # 2 (or Uber) stops by the funicular at Bom Jesus do Monte, you have two ways to get to the top of Bom Jesus hill; 1) the funicular (Elevador Bom Jesus do Monte), or 2) taking the pilgrims’ route (Escadatório do Bom Jesus) of 580 steps uphill.
580 steps up to Bom Jesus – Photo: YouTube
We looked at the steps involved and since we were planning on taking the same steps on our way back down, opted for the…
Funicular:
We bought our one-way tickets (€1.20 one way, round trip €2) to the right of the Bus # 2 bus stop.
Riding the funicular to the top of Bom Jesus
This funicular was the first one in the Iberian Peninsula and was inaugurated in 1882 (it is the oldest elevator in the world), and is powered by a water balance system, that is still in use.
Funicular (Old Elevador) – Photo: JulieDawnFox.com
Plaque memorializing Manuel Joaquim Comes for Old Elevador – Photo: A Portuguese Affair
Google Maps – Aerial View of Bom Jesus do Monte
Hours and Cost: Bom Jesus do Monte is open daily, Summer, 8 am – 7 pm; Winter, 9 am – 6 pm; the entrance to the Basilica of Bom Jesus is free (see above for funicular prices).
Basilica Mass hours: Monday – Friday, 5 pm; Saturday, 8 am; Sunday, 8 am, 11 am, 5 pm.
History of Bom Jesus do Monte
The first reference to the sanctuary of Bom Jesus do Monte appears in a document from 1373 that mentioned the presence of pilgrims on this hill of the city of nearby Bracara Augusta (Braga), a stronghold of the Catholic church in the Iberian Peninsula.
But it was only during the first half of the 18th century, under the rule of the Archbishop of Braga, D. Rodrigo de Moura, that work began on the famous stairway.
Archbishop of Braga, D. Rodrigo de Moura – from: Wikipedia
This pilgrimage site is one of the most majestic sacred hills in Europe, dominated by a huge stairway, with almost 600 hundreds steps (580), that combines three architectural styles: Baroque, Rococo and Neoclassical.
In bygone times, pilgrims were encouraged to climb this monumental stairway on their knees, experiencing the martyrdom of Christ, and thus reaching a spiritual clarity of purification and redemption.
Visiting Bom Jesus do Monte:
Once at the top, you can admire the view over Braga from the terraces in front and to the sides of the Church (Basilica do Bom Jesus).
View of Braga from Bom Jesus do Monte
Next, turn around and enjoy the view of the basilica exterior.
Exterior – Basilica of Bom Jesus
There are several statues situated around the plaza at the top of the hill.
Statues around the plaza – Photo: JulieDawnFox.com
The equestrian statue is of S. Longuinhos or Longino, Roman centurion commander of the soldiers who took Christ to Calvary and later, converted to Christianity.
The beautiful basilica interior has a single nave with several side chapels, a transept, and a high choir.
Nave – Wikimedia – Jl FilpoC
High Altar – Wikimedia – Palickap
The High Altar paints a striking picture of the death of Jesus
Side Chapels
Ceiling
Organ – Wikimedia – Joseolgon
Wall Paintings
Two Crucifixions
There are other sites on top the hill, including a grotto nearby the basilica.
Gruta do Bom Jesus (Grotto of Bom Jesus)
And chapels portraying Jesus and other holy figures.
Chapels portraying Jesus and other holy figures (on top of the hill and on the descent down the hill)
In front of the basilica there is a fountain, Fonte do Pelicano (Fountain of the Pelican).
Front of the Basilica and fountain (hard to see – in the middle of the wall)
Fonte do Pelicano (Fountain of the Pelican) – Wikimedia – Joseolgon
Walk of the Stations:
We are now ready to descend the 580 steps of Bom Jesus and see the Stations along the way. From the plaza at the top, we will descend three different sets of stairways to get to the bottom.
Starting point of the descent of the Steps
The First Set of Stairs, is dedicated to the three Catholic virtues: Charity, Hope, and Faith (in reverse of the normal order, since we’re going down the stairs, not up), represented by three fountains/statues or Stations.
These fountains/statues or Stations are flanked by allegorical figures representing the Theological Virtues, in order to provide the necessary skills to enter the Temple of Charity, Hope, and Faith
Caridade (Charity) Station
Esperança (Hope) Station
Confidencia (Confidence)
Fé (Faith) Station
Here we stopped at the top of the Second Set of Stairs and paused and took in a view of Braga. The Second Set of Stairs is called the Stairway of the Senses, and it is dedicated to the five human senses: Sight, Smell, Hearing, Touch and Taste.
View of Braga from the top of the Second Set of Stairs
View of the remaining Steps and Stations
View of the Basilica and Steps/Stations passed
Salamao (Solomon) Station – Fountain of Touch – “touched my mouth”
Joseph of Egypt Station – Fountain of Taste
Vir Sapiens (Wise Man) Station – Fountain of Smell
Idithun (“Leaps Over”) Station – Fountain of Hearing Vir Prudens (Prudent Man) Station – Fountain of Vision
View of the top of the Steps/Stations
View from the bottom of the Steps
We’re not done – we still have another set of stairs (that winds through the woods) to make your way down to the bus stop…
On the left side of the circular viewpoint, you’ll see another set of stairs going down…
Google Street View – Way to last set of Stations
The Last Set of Stairs is dedicated to the Via Crucis (Way of the Cross), and it has several chapels or stations decorated with figures that depict the Passion of Christ.
Nancy checking out a chapel – Third Set of Stairs
Once you reach the bottom of the hill, you have completed all the stairs/stations of the Escadatório do Bom Jesus (Staircase of Bom Jesus).
Google Street View – Bottom of the descent
Make your way back to the bus stop (a short walk along the road to the right – then take the first fork to the right) to catch Bus # 2 back to Braga (or call for an Uber pickup).
Upon arrival at Braga, we made our way to…
Praça da República (Republic Square):
This square is Portugal at its best – It is a wide, expansive space with a fountain at its heart and surrounded by grand architecture from a variety of periods that define the history of this historic city.
Praça da República (Republic Square) and Vianna Fountain – Photo: TripAdvisor
The fountain is named the Vianna Fountain, and in fact many locals simply refer to the Praça da República as “Vianna”.
To the east stretches the long Jardim da Avenida Central, which includes a modern Monument to Pope John Paul II (Monumento ao Papa João Paulo II), a free-standing McDonald’s, and long concrete and grassy walkways.
Monument to Pope John Paul II (Monumento ao Papa João Paulo II) – TripAdvisor
Braga McDonald’s – Flickr – mcd
This park finishes in the extreme east, making a whale’s tail with the Jardim da Senhora a Branca.
Google Maps – Jardim da Avenida Central – look at the whale’s tail…
West of the fountain are the Arcades (Arcada), a row of shops and restaurants under cover
Arcades – Flickr – Karl Agre
Behind the Arcades are the ramparts of the Torre de Menagem (Tower of Menagem), the original keep of Castelo de Braga (Braga Castle).
In the back right is the Torre de Menagem (Tower of Menagem)
Café society plays a big part in everyday life in Portugal and Braga is no exception – The oldest café in the city is the Vianna Café, which lies in the heart of the square and has been a leading congregation point for residents and visitors alike since it was opened as long ago as 1858
Vianna Café
Open Monday – Thursday, 9 am – midnight; Friday, Saturday, 9 am – 2 am; Sunday, 9 am – 7 pm
By day, Praça da República (Republic Square) is the perfect place for hanging out, people watching and admiring your surroundings from the comfort of a café chair, with a pastel de nata, rich, freshly brewed coffee or a light local beer for company – Things are livened up regularly by a variety of street artists who come to entertain the crowds.
By night the mood changes and the Praça da República becomes a popular dining destination, especially in summer when it is possible to sit outside and enjoy the balmy evening weather as you taste some of the gastronomic delights of one of Portugal’s leading culinary centers.
The square at night – Photo: GetYourGuide.com
The sweeping Avenida da Liberdade opens up from the square, making the perfect jumping-off point for exploring this ancient city, and many of Braga’s most important landmarks are within easy reach.
Google Maps – Avenida da Liberdade
Our next stop is along the south side of the Jardim da Avenida Central, along Avenida Central, the…
Convento dos Congregados (Convent of the Congregants):
The Convent dates from the eighteenth century, impresses in its Rococo façade, especially its imaginative windows
Convento dos Congregados (Convent of the Congregants)
On this same sidewalk is the Casa Rolao, built in the 18th century for a family that owed its fortune to silk – The stone decoration of the windows is striking for its originality
Casa Rolao – Photo: Visitar Portugal
This house has a bookstore on the ground floor, and more shops and other spaces upstairs – step inside to take a look…
Return west along Avenida Central to the flower-lined Avenue da Liberdade.
Flower-lined Avenue da Liberdade
Here, turn left and go south until you reach the Theatro Circo de Braga.
Theatro Circo de Braga
From here we took an Uber to the Braga Train Station to return via train to the Porto Train Station. At the Porto Train Station we picked up our bags from a locker, and took a train to Coimbra.