September 17-25, 2024:
We flew from Istanbul to Ankara on September 17th, and stayed at the Holiday Inn Express at the Ankara airport (no free shuttle after 6 pm – took a cab). We took a shuttle from the Holiday Inn Express to the Ankara airport on the morning of September 18th and picked up a rental car.
Our first stop on our drive was the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations in Ankara. We were lucky to find a parking place in a pay lot off a cobbled street next to the Ankara Castle/Citadel.
MUSEUM OF ANATOLIAN CIVILIZATIONS – ANKARA:
The museum displays Anatolian archaeological artifacts in chronological order, from the Paleolithic Age to the Roman and Greek Classic Age.
Entrance and sculpture garden
Goddess Figurine (5750 BC)
Paleolithic, Neolithic and Chalcolithic Ages (+8,000-3000 BC)
Early Bronze Age (3000-1950 BC)
Assyrian/Hittite Ages (1950-1200 BC)
Phrygian Period (1200-700 BC)
Carved Stone Slabs – Hittite and Neo-Hittite Age
Classic Ages (Greece and Rome)
Two creatures with gaping mouths (Hittite Period)
Assyrian Period Ritual Boat
Phyrgian Inlaid Table
Phyrgian Bronze Cauldron
Hittite double headed ritual vessel
Assyrian Period Gold Decorated Skull
We next drove to Mustafapaşa in Cappodocia (about 3-1/2 hours – mostly freeway).
CAPPODOCIA, TURKEY:
Cappadocia, a semi-arid region in central Turkey, is known for its distinctive “fairy chimneys,” tall, cone-shaped rock formations clustered in Paşabağ Valley (Monks Valley), Göreme and elsewhere. Other notables sites include Bronze Age homes carved into valley walls by troglodytes (cave dwellers) and later used as refuges by early Christians.
Our Accommodation – Upper Greek House – Mustafapaşa:
Our accommodation was initially locked but we were able to get in by calling the host. We soon found out that the Upper Greek House is owned by the Ozturk family, which also owns the Old Greek House Hotel/Restaurant in Mustafapaşa. The owner, Suleyman, treats you like you are a special guest to his house.
Upper Greek House – Mustafapaşa
Old Greek House Restaurant – Mustafapaşa:
Our first night in Mustafapaşa, Suleyman drove us to the Old Greek House Restaurant. He introduced us to his wife Emine who prepares all the special dishes.
Old Greek House Restaurant
Chicken Kebab – Old Greek House Restaurant
Göreme Open Air Museum – Göreme:
There were no photos allowed inside, so photos from the Internet are included for the interiors of the rock cave churches in the Open Air Museum.
Göreme Open Air Museum
Göreme Open Air Museum – Dark Church – Exterior
Göreme Open Air Museum – Dark Church – Interior – Photos: dailysabah.com
Göreme Open Air Museum – Saint Basil’s Chapel – Exterior
Göreme Open Air Museum – Saint Basil’s Chapel – Interior – Photo: cappodociahistory.com
Göreme Open Air Museum – Apple (Emali) Church – Exterior
Göreme Open Air Museum – Apple (Emali) Church – Interior – Photos: aahmetyildiz.com
Göreme Open Air Museum – Saint Barbara Chapel – Exterior
Göreme Open Air Museum – Saint Barbara Chapel – Interior – Photos: cappodociahistory.com
Göreme Open Air Museum – Sandal Church (Çarıklı Kilise) – Exterior
Göreme Open Air Museum – Sandal Church (Çarıklı Kilise) – Interior – Photos: cappodociahistory.com
Göreme Open Air Museum – Refectory of the Sandal Church
Göreme Open Air Museum – wine or oil press room
Göreme Open Air Museum – More pics
Fairy Chimneys of Paşabağ Valley (Monks Valley) – Nevşehir:
Paşabağ Valley (Monks Valley) has the highest concentration of fairy chimneys in Cappadocia. These unusual rock formations were formed by millions of years of wind and rain eroding away at soft volcanic tuff. This left much harder rock behind and created the mushroom-shaped caps on top.
Fairy Chimneys of Paşabağ Valley
Saint Symeon Hermitages – Paşabağ Valley – Nevşehir:
Paşabağ Valley was was home to a community of hermits and their hermitages (cells and rock churches) are left behind.
Saint Symeon Hermitages – Paşabağ Valley
Zelve Open Air Museum – Nevşehir:
The Zelve Open-Air Museum is an incredible site that once housed one of the largest communities in Cappadocia. In this incredible cave town, you can walk amongst historic dwellings, churches, and religious chambers.
Column Church – Zelve Open Air Museum
Mosque – Zelve Open Air Museum
Monastery – Zelve Open Air Museum
Dwelling – Zelve Open Air Museum
Zelve Open Air Museum – Other Sights
Devrent Valley – Nevşehir:
Devrent Valley is also named Imagination Valley because all you have to do is let your mind run wild to see many stone sculptures including a camel.
Camel in Devrent Valley
Cappadocia Balloon Flight:
We were picked up at our hotel at 4:40 am to have breakfast and prepare for our balloon flight over Cappadocia.
Preparation for takeoff
Takeoff
Early Morning (before sunrise)
Sunrise
165 Balloons in the Air
Over Love Valley
Enjoying Our Balloon Flight
Just Passing By…
Landed and Deflating Balloon
Champagne Celebration
Mustafapaşa:
Like many other small villages of Turkey, Mustafapaşa is steeped in Greek Orthodox history, specifically the Ottoman years before the Turkish War of Independence in the early 20th century, when Turks and Greeks lived side by side in harmony.
As part of the Treaty of Lausanne in 1923, Greece and Turkey agreed to uproot two million people in a massive population exchange.
Men playing dominoes in town square
Church of Saints Constantine and Helena – Exterior
Church of Saints Constantine and Helena – Interior
Shopping in Mustafapaşa
Mehmet Şakir Paşa Madrassa
Camii Kebir (Grand Mosque)
Haralambos Soultanidis Mansion (Kapadokya Üniversitesi)
Maraşoğlu Bridge
Saint Nicholas Monastery – Exterior
Saint Nicholas Monastery – Interior
Saint Nicholas Monastery – Monk’s Cells
Saint Nicholas Monastery – Cemetery
Monastery Valley
Saint John the Theologian Church
Our sauces for dinner (Colorado Barbeque Sauce?) in Mustafapaşa town square
SILLE:
Sille, also known as Sille Subaşı and historically Sylata, was one of the few villages where the Cappadocian Greek language was spoken until 1922.
Sille, Turkey
Aya Eleni Kilisesi (Hagia Helena Church):
It is believed that the original church on this site was founded by Helena, the mother of Constantine the Great (327 AD).
Church Exterior
Inscription and paintings of Saint George and Saint Minas on white horses
Nave and Iconostatis
Dome and Columns
Icons
Mellotron or Keyboard (unusual in Greek Orthodox Churches)
Despot Throne
Ambon or Pulpit
Ciborium (used to hold Eucharist bread)
Altar and wall frescoes
Zaman Müzesi/Şapel (Museum of Time/Chapel):
Many rare works from the Roman, Ottoman and Republican periods are exhibited in the museum established in Sille Chapel.
Zaman Müzesi/Şapel (Museum of Time/Chapel)
Roman and Ottoman period sundials/gnomons
Astrolabe and other time measuring devices
Ottoman period crescent star hall clock
Desk calendars
Table Clocks
Pocket Watches
Usturlab (Astrolabe)
KONYA:
Konya is a city south of Ankara in Turkey’s Central Anatolia region. It’s a pilgrimage destination for Sufis, focused on the tomb of the founder of the Mevlana order, Jelaleddin Rumi, in the Mevlana Museum. Sema whirling dervish ceremonies take place at the Mevlana Cultural Center, east of the museum.
Mevlana Square:
Our day of arrival coincided with the opening of the Annual Mystic Music Festival in Konya. We were treated to a special presentation of 99 Whirling Dervishes in Mevlana Square.
99 Whirling Dervishes – Mevlana Square
Mevlânâ Müzesi (Mevlânâ Museum)
Selimiye Mosque
Mevlana Cultural Center:
Later we were treated to a whirling dervish performance at the Mevlana Cultural Center.
Whirling Dervish Performance at Mevlana Cultural Center
ASPENDOS ROMAN THEATER:
The Roman theater of Aspendos is a Roman theater in the ancient city of Aspendos in Turkey. It was built in the 2nd century and is one of the best preserved ancient theaters of the Greco-Roman world.
Aspendos Roman Theater
Aerial View – Photo: iantalya.com
ANTALYA:
Antalya is a Turkish resort city with a yacht-filled Old Harbor and beaches flanked by large hotels. It’s a gateway to Turkey’s southern Mediterranean region, known as the Turquoise Coast for its blue waters. Remnants remain from Antalya’s time as a major Roman port. These include Hadrian’s Gate, built to honor the Roman emperor’s visit in 130 A.D and 2nd-century Hidirlik Tower, with harbor views.
Antalya Archaeology Museum:
The Antalya Museum is one of the most important museums in Turkey and covers periods from prehistory to the 19th century. It includes 13 exhibition halls and an open air gallery containing over 5,000 works that illustrate the history and culture of Anatolia. The Museum won the “European Council Special Prize” in 1988.
Antalya Archaeology Museum and Open Air Gallery
Pre-History Hall
Urn Burial from Emali
Figure of a woman, found in Hacilar Höyük
Mosaic Hall
Hekate, the goddess of the underworld
Heads and Portraits Hall
Disc with the Signs of the Zodiac
The Dancer – Emperor’s Hall
Emperor Trajan – Emperor’s Hall
Septimius Severus – Emperor’s Hall
Plancia Magna – Emperor’s Hall
Apollo – Hall of Gods
Athena (head of Medusa on her chest) – Hall of Gods
Helios – the Sun God
Serapis – Hall of Gods
The Weary Hercules
Hermes from Perge – Perge Theater Hall
Marsyas – Perge Theater Hall
Sacrifice Frieze
Sarcophagus of Domitias lulianus and
Domita Philiska – Sarcophagi Hall
Hercules Sarcophagus – Sarcophagi Hall
Dionysius Sarcophagus – Sarcophagi Hall
Garland Sarcophagus – Sarcophagi Hall
Sarcophagus for a dog – Sarcophagi Hall
Icons Wall
Saint Nicholas Icons
Treasure from Aspendos – Coin Hall
Mustafa Kemal Atatürk coin – Coin Hall
Walking Tour of Antalya:
Here are the highlights of our self-guided walking tour of Antalya.
Walking Tour of Antalya
Hadrian’s Gate in Antalya
Dinner along the Mediterranean:
We had an excellent dinner at Sauvignon Restaurant, along the Mediterranean, next to Hidirlik Tower.
Dinner at Sauvignon Restaurant in Antalya
After Dinner Walk:
We went for a stroll after dinner through nearby Karaalioglu Park.
Karaalioglu Park
Antalya Marina after dark
LAODICEA ANCIENT CITY:
The Laodicea Ancient City dates back to the 3rd century BC with excavations still taking place.
East Byzantine Gate
Syria Street
Church of Laodikeia
Mosaics – Church of Laodikeia
Peristyle House with Church
North Theater
West Theater
North (Sacred) Agora
Temple
Propylonlar
Wall paintings
Central Agora
Temple
Central Baths
Market
PAMUKKALE:
Our Accommodation – Venus Suites Hotel:
Largest selection for breakfast in all of Turkey. Nice patio by the pool for dining. Free Parking.
Venus Suites Hotel – Photos: Booking.com
Hierapolis:
Hierapolis was a Hellenistic Greek city built on the site of a Phrygian cult center of the Anatolian mother goddess Cybele, in Phrygia in southwestern Anatolia. It was famous for its hot springs, its high quality wool fabrics and dyes, and as the birthplace of the Stoic philosopher Epictetus.
South Gate
Gymnasium
Travertines
Hierapolis Archaeology Museum
Denizle’s Rooster
Central Baths
Church with Pillar
Theater
Saint Phillip’s Martyrion
Octagonal Baths
The House of the Ionic Capitals
Temple of Apollo
Sanctuary of Hades (Ploutonion)
SELÇUK:
Selçuk is a town near Izmir, in western Turkey. It’s the gateway to Ephesus, a vast, ancient city with the remains of a large theater and the Library of Celsus. South is the House of Virgin Mary, a domed chapel and religious shrine. The Ephesus Museum has items from the Artemis temple, plus other artifacts excavated from the Ephesus site.
Ephesus Archaeology Museum:
This museum houses a remarkable collection of artifacts unearthed from the ancient city of Ephesus.
Bust of Marcus Aurelius
Ivory Friezes – Terrace Houses
Head of Socrates
Egyptian Priest
Ayasuluk Hoard
Eros protecting a rabbit from a dog
Head of Eros
Ephesus Game Boards
Cybele Cult Exhibition
Beautiful Artemis
Great Artemis
Head and arm of the 23 foot tall Domitian
Head of Balbinas
Frieze of the Temple of Hadrian
Parthian Monument
Altar from the Temple of Domitian
Statue of Proconsul Stephanus
Relief with Garlands
Bust of Empress Iulia Paula
Emperor Commodus
Animal Shaped Pendant
Gold Earring
Head of Philosopher
Bronze Snake
Androclus and his dog
Ayasoluk Restaurant:
We found this restaurant highly rated on Google after visiting the Ephesus Archaeology Museum. We were not disappointed.
Ayasoluk Restaurant
Ephesus Ancient City:
The city of Ephesus was one of the largest and most important cities in the ancient Mediterranean world, lying on the western coast of Asia Minor (in modern day Turkey). It was one of the oldest Greek settlements on the Aegean Sea, and later the provincial seat of Roman government in Asia.
Situated at end of the Royal Road—the chief thoroughfare of the Roman East—the city was a western terminus of East-West trade, with one of the most important Mediterranean harbours for exporting products to Greece, Italy and the rest of the Roman West. The city itself developed around an ancient shrine of the earth goddess Artemis (Roman Diana), and later, from the beginning of the Christian era, became a key city in the expansion of Christianity, from which Saint Paul launched many of his missions.
Stoa Basilica
Odeon (Bouleterion)
Prytaneion
Sacred Way
Hermes and Ram
Hammer and Pestle
Fountain of Domitian
Temple of Domitian
Memmius Monument
Nike Frieze
Hercules Gate
Curates Road
Statue of the doctor Alexander
Trajan’s Fountain
Temple of Hadrian
Medusa – Temple of Hadrian
Terrace Houses
Library of Celsus
Marble Road
Brothel Advertisement – Depicts a left footprint, a heart, a woman, and a coin purse
Commercial Agora
Great Theater
Harbor Road
House of the Virgin Mary:
It is believed that Mary lived the final years of her life in a small stone house on Bulbul Mountain, which later became known as the House of the Virgin Mary. This house is now a Catholic Shrine.
House of the Virgin Mary